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Brake pipe routing question

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Old 09-20-2022, 07:23 PM
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Default Brake pipe routing question

So, I'm replacing the steel brake pipe (not the flexible hose) from my left front wheel to the ABS block. My question is how important is it to follow the original path from the wheel well to the block. The hard lines appear to have been installed before the engine, etc., making it a very tight work space. I am not sure how, if I duplicate the bends in the original line, I could manipulate it through the fender and behind all the stuff that's in front of it. How criminal would it be if I took a different, "more direct" path to the block? I'm planning on using copper pipe as it's more easily formed. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 02:59 AM
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The absolute MUST is that the connections at either end don't leak. After that, the shape is just AESTHETICS.

OE pipework looks neat and tidy because it's machine made and fitted before the powertrain. Replicating this is always difficult because brake pipe comes is coils and getting a perfect straight length to begin with is the first challenge.

I use a miniature pipe bender to make good curves. When working around corners, it's often easier to make the bends as the fitting proceeds rather than trying to replicate the entire original shape in one go.

Graham
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 05:57 AM
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How and where did your original steel brake line fail?
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 07:20 AM
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Thank you, Graham, that is the answer I was hoping for.
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 07:26 AM
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Angry I did it!

Originally Posted by Jon89
How and where did your original steel brake line fail?
I was hoping no one would ask. I f'd up and managed to twist it right where it enters the wheel well it when I was removing the flex hose. Can't blame the Jag for this.
 

Last edited by Stamford; 09-21-2022 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 09-21-2022, 07:48 AM
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If you take a new route, you have to secure it with new fastening clips or clamps, and in my experience that can be challenging do to lack of space to drill holes etc
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 09:26 AM
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No worries, we all are guilty of breaking other things when working on these cars. I know of at least three times over the years when I have gotten in a hurry with my wife's XK8 and busted something as a result (especially if that something is Jaguar plastic).....
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
No worries, we all are guilty of breaking other things when working on these cars. I know of at least three times over the years when I have gotten in a hurry with my wife's XK8 and busted something as a result (especially if that something is Jaguar plastic).....
Ain't THAT the truth!
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 01:26 PM
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I am anticipating that.
 
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Old 09-21-2022, 01:27 PM
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Yup, it almost always takes more time when you rush.
 
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Old 09-26-2022, 08:36 PM
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My local mechanic turned the job down, so I was forced to DIM. I started out pretty intimidated by the prospect of fabricating a line and running it. Turned out to be much easier than I expected. I was fortunate that it was the left front brake that I screwed up. That one takes the shortest, most direct path. I didn't even try to duplicate the original route as I'd would have had to remove too many components. But the path I took looks and works just fine. IMPORTANT: The job would have been much more difficult if I has not used nickel/copper pipe. I was so easy to bend that I hardly needed the tube bender. Had I used steel line, I might have been tempted to give up and let someone else do it for me. YouTube taught me all I needed to know about making double-flares for the fittings. In the end, I saved a ton of money.
 
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Old 09-27-2022, 06:08 AM
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Well done....
 
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Old 09-27-2022, 08:43 AM
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Good stuff.

I always use cupro-nickel pipe for replacement brake lines. It's much easier to work with than steel, and it doesn't rust
 
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Old 09-28-2022, 04:15 PM
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Me too.
 
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