Hi, I am removing my brembo calipers on my 2005 XKR and the bolt that hold the calliper to the hub are very difficult to remove. I have been able to get them to move and have them slightly out but I am using a breaker bar and they keep sounding like they are going to brake. Any advice?

 

Hi, is it front or rear?

 

it’s the front drivers side. They were hard to crack off first of all and then stiff but they are getting harder to turn and are cracking at times even though they have loosened.

 

If the two caliper to vertical link securing bolts (item 3) have loosened slightly, you should be able to get a blast of penetrating fluid onto the shafts.




Tighten them up again - slacken - tighten - slacken etc and they should gradually free up. These ones were tight but responded to a 3 ft breaker bar:





Graham

 

They do have loctite on them from the factory but should not be impossible to remove. Graham’s course of action is the best one, penetrating oil and time. They will come out, just keep at it.

When you eventually get to putting them back in those bolts need to be tightened to 180N-m which is not a small amount.

 

I'd forgotten about that. Checking JEPC, I also see the bolts are supposed to be single use only but that seems a bit OTT.

Graham

 

thanks for the help from everyone. This is perfect. It is number 3 from below and tried again today but they are now not moving at all. I am using a 2ft breaker bar. Can’t do them up or undo them.....would heat be ok to use considering the callipers are painted?

 

I had the same problem on my 2006 XKR. The ends of the bolts protrude about 1/4”. This corrodes and binds when you try to remove them. I was able to get a small wire brush to clean off the corrosion then applied penetrating oil. Tighten the bolts back up to do this. Once out I ran a tap in the threaded hole and a die down the bolts to clean the threads up. Once back together I put some high temp grease on the exposed part of the threads

 

Rabs
I agree with Graham that penetrating oil and working the bolts a little will eventually break the bolts free. The penetrating oil can take a while and may take several applications. Time is a friend here.
Heat cycles would help but understand your paint damage concern. Maybe a heat gun rather than a torch would give you more control over how much heat gets applied.
Work space is limited but can you get a hand held impact driver in there to wack it with a heavy hammer? May help in shifting the bolts at least to let the oil in to work.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Mike

 

Had the same problem with standard calipers, front end.
I tried every thing : 2 inches bar, heat, cold spray, ...tender words
Finally took a professional impact wrench with adequate air pressure, from a garage. Job's done in few seconds

 

You need to add a 4' pipe to your collection of tools. Pipe goes over the breaker bar and lets you apply a big torque in a controlled manner. You may have to procure a strong 6-point impact socket for this, too.

Altogether, be patient as this bolt threads into the knuckle, and the fight between the (cheap) bolt and the (expensive, NLA?) knuckle needs to resolve in your favor.

 

I think the only reason they are 1 time use is because the loctite comes pre-applied. I have reused mine, twice now. The torque is so high that I have not bothered with the loctite, but you could always put a dab if it were a concern.

 

Thanks for all the help. Heat and brute force go me there in the end. Now the disc will not come of the hub carrier. I love old cars

I have a refurbed hub carrier to fit as the bearing was noisy. Will just take the whole unit with disc off. Will replace the discs as they have seen better days also.