Hi,

I have begun planning for replacing all bushings and other wearing items at the rear suspension at my Xkr 2000. My plan includes renewal of the sub frame bushings as well as inspecting and if needed repairs from corrosion above the frame.

For those of you having changed sub frame bushings, or for some other reason have removed your sub frame from the body, do you have recommendations for where to put the jack stands so that they will not be in the way?

the bracket A below doesnt seem to be part of the subframe itself, but needs to come off? Can I put the jack stand at the surface B without risking damage to the car? Is the point strong enough? The bracket A is bolted to B so my guess it will be suitable

 

The lift points on the X100 are reinforced steel places on the sill. Just in front of the rear wheel arches and just aft of the front ones are the places I'm typing about.
If you look along the 'pinch-weld' seam you will find the reinforced areas.
I use blocks of wood on my twin post lifts to lift the entire car at these points. Use wood or rubber to keep from damaging the paint and metal.

 

On a related note ...how high must you lift the vehicle to be able to slide the rear sub frame out from under the car ?

 

About 10 inches, I drove the front of the car up onto standard car ramps and jacked up the rear to match.

Full pictorial story here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...repair-149852/

 

Great, thanks! I can see from your thread what I have before me. The only advantage I have compared to your work is that my car is less rusty, I expect only surface rust. But all bushings and joints I plan to change. After having done the front end last winter with great effect on the handling of the car I need to do the rear to get the job complete and done

 

Now I have gotten on with the work dropping the rear subframe. Everything loose except the flange between diff and propshaft, see pic below. Two of the flange bolts completely removed, two of them I'm not able to wiggle out but they are extracted so far out that they should not hinder the separation of the flanges. Any ideas of how to progress? I don't want to lower the subframe any more before the flanges are separated, afraid of causing damage to propshaft or its bearing. Tried pulling the prop shaft forward, tried hitting the flange with a hammer ( gently). With no success

 

Bump

 

Tap in a chisel or screwdriver to split them.

 

Thanks Race. I used a little force with a screw driver and a hammer and it came apart. A bit of thick oil emerged from the gap of the flanges, se pic below. The diff fluid that makes its way out of the diff?

 

The beast is out


Oil seems to emerge from the diff side. Very small oil spill, a few centiliters/ounces

 

Looks like you have a pinion seal leak. You can replace just the seal or get the whole kit which includes the flange. Here are a couple of links to give you and idea of what you need.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...RoCHeAQAvD_BwE

 

Great, thanks for the tip. Will probably find a workshop to change all seals in the diff since it seems there is a small leak at the right side where the drive shaft connects also. And when having everything apart I think about purchasing a Quaife lsd as well

 

It seems lots have already been replaced in my rear suspension! The differential strut bushings looks as if they have been replaced not too many years ago, same goes for the sub frame bushings and probably also the top shock mounts. They all look fresh. The only parts in really bad shape I have found so far are the lower shock bushings, they are both shot. Haven't got everything apart yet so the list of parts that needs to be changed might grow. Probably parts have been renewed two or three owners back in history. I bought the car in 2016 and the seller who only had the car for two years didn't tell me anything about this.

My driving experience the last year since the front end suspension was renewed last winter has been that the car now steers into bends with a lot more precision. But at high speed, especially at highway driving straight forward, there is an unrest in the behaviour. Since the status of the parts in the rear suspension was unknown to me, I assumed there were improvements to be made from replacing worn parts. A bit of frustration actually to see that many parts are in good shape when I expected them to be worn out and the reason for the unrest at high speeds. What are the shot lower shock bushings likely to cause in terms of behaviour of the car?

 

Bump

 

Just saw this thread. I removed my rear suspension by jacking the car at the jack points just forward of the rear wheels, supporting the rear suspension with jack stands under the axle, then using the jacks at the jack points to lift the car off the rear suspension once I got everything disconnected. Worked well.