I'm looking to get at that scary rear end, and I don't want to repeat the mistake of a previous owner...

What are the best places to lift a 1985 Jaguar XJS?

 

Depends what you are using. If a two post lift, officially the front and rear jacking points. BUT, using the rear jacking points on a two post lift can allow the rear axle to drop off on the person underneath, as the cage and axle it contains are only held in by the four rubber bushes of the cage mounts. These are under compression on the road, but under tension (which they are not designed to be) on a two post lift.

Providing your trailing arms (from the rear hub forward to the bodywork attachment point just behind the rear jacking point) are solid, this danger can be overcome by placing the lifting point under the trailing arm, about 2 or 3 inches back from the bodywork attachment point. This effectively supports the axle sufficiently to prevent it falling.

If a floor jack, under the front subframe with a bit of wood for cushioning, or under the rear subframe ditto the wood. The the axle stands can then be surgically inserted under the front or rear suspension arms/driveshafts or hubs.

Greg

 

I used jack stands under the jack points and a jack under the rear end with wood. I jacked the car up under the diff inserted the stands unbolted the mounts then lowered the rear end.

Greg is right if the rear mounts are bad the whole rear end will fall out unless you have it supported, and this unit very heavy probably 200kg.

 

I noticed the possible issue with the rear end dropping out if not jacked up properly and thought I might chime in on this one. I tried to jack my 1985 XJS up the other day in order to do exhaust work on it and found it is much lower than any of my other vehicles. My jack sits too high to jack the car from any of the sides of the car. I had to jack the car from a higher spot in front before I put some jack stands under it. Where are the recommended jack points at?

 

The jack nipples are behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. You need a very low jack to get under them. My jack is new from Harbor Freight Tools and is quite long enough to reach the front crossmember and also the differential. It is only 3" high.
RagJag

 

It certainly is tricky. I bought a low profile jack and even then its a problem if you need to use jackstands. Its still a two jack process. I use ramps. I drive up the ramps, use the jack at the crossmember and then remove the ramps and replace with jackstands at the jack points.

Nothings easy...well, changing the spark plugs on the 6 sure is...

 

I've worried about putting that much weight on the jack posts/nipples so I've usually taken a 4in x 4in piece of wood, drilled a hole the size of the jack post/nipple and then put it over the nipple and jacked it like that or put jack stands on the wood instead of directly on the nipple. It seemed to me that having a larger surface area to support would be better than balancing that post on a narrow jack stand head. Is this not necessary?

 

What are you worried about? The metal bending over? That would drop the car 1/2"? Maybe 1"?

Undoubtedly scary, but not deadly and not likely.

If it makes you feel safer, then its absolutely worthwhile. I've never had an issue, but I suppose that can change at anytime. You could just put the jack stand under the spring bottom plate as well....with an unmodified piece of wood.

 

The rear end can ONLY FALL OUT if the subframe bushes are shot. You can jack under the 4 jack points, I have also jacked under the diff cage with a bit of wood to spread the load. The same with the front subframe always use wood to spread the load on the subframe. When I pulled the front subframe out and cut it open the inner ribs were bent from being jacked in the middle. I have welded in 2 supports so my front subframe can used as a jacking point.


Those jack points were designed to take the weight of the car, mine was stood on the jacking nipples for 6 months. Disclaimer is that they are in good condition with no rust. I have seen these so rusted that they would not hold the weight of the car.

 

I need to look at mine. I made sure that the title history was entirely in Texas, so the rust "down under" ( no pun intended ) would not be an issue. This car seemed to spend most of it's days in the desert. I'm going over to Harbor Freight to get one of those low profile jacks tomorrow. They happen to be on sale this weekend. Thanks again for all the info. I'm going to be starting from the front of the vehicle and remove the engine first. Is it best to remove engine and trans together ?( I do have a capable hoist )....but never used it on engine and trans this heavy. Is it easy enough to stab the transmission when re-installing it, or is it best to take out both and put the trans back on from outside the vehicle? Thanks again

 

Pulling the engine and trans out together is doable, if you have the right tools. The hoist needs quite a long reach, must carry one ton, and needs a tilting device. In particular the car has to be quite a bit off the ground (say 2 feet or so). Most importantly, to take out both together is MUCH easier if the front subframe is lowered/removed first. This is because the sump forms a downwards 'step' rearwards of the subframe/steering rack, and the engine/transmission has to be tilted at about 60° to get it out if the subframe is still in place, and the downpipes may have to be removed. All of this is MUCH easier if you have removed the radiator stacks, so there is free access from the front of the car. Pics attached to give you some idea.




Taking the trans off on its own still a big enough job, and also requires the car to be off the ground quite a way. BUT, if it is taken off first, getting the engine in and out is quite a bit easier.

Hope this helps

Greg

 

Wow, thanks for the info and the pics. That's how I usually do engines ( Disconnect tranny first ). Just wanted to ask and thanks for those pics. Reminds me of my son helping me with an overhaul I did on the truck.

 

Ok,
I finished my compression check. . These were my results: 1A-203, 2A-198, 3A-200, 4A-200, 5A-201, 6A-205, 1B-205, 2B-204, 3B-200, 4B-198, 5B-204, 6B-204. Couldn't attach movie file, but have movie file if interested. Tested after warming up engine. Removed A/C compressor and throttle pedestal so I could get at everything. Also removed pickup coil from ignition amplifier and removed fuel pump relay ( #3 ) from socket in trunk. I believe these readings show that the engine should be ok, but comments are welcome.