C1095 ABS Pump fail 2001 XKR
#1
C1095 ABS Pump fail 2001 XKR
I've been having an intermittent ABS light on my XKR along with a warning that the ASC is disabled. It's is probably on about 75% of the time. Luckily the car does not go into limp mode so it is fully drivable.
I hooked up the AE and it spit out C1095 ABS Pump failure.
I looked in JTS diagnosis and testing, it doesn't give any course of action for this code or really any procedure for troubleshooting the ABS. :-(
Anyone have any advice? My guess is that it is a bad ABS Control Module, I'm thinking of pulling that to be rebuilt, but I don't want to waste money if that isn't what it is
I hooked up the AE and it spit out C1095 ABS Pump failure.
I looked in JTS diagnosis and testing, it doesn't give any course of action for this code or really any procedure for troubleshooting the ABS. :-(
Anyone have any advice? My guess is that it is a bad ABS Control Module, I'm thinking of pulling that to be rebuilt, but I don't want to waste money if that isn't what it is
#2
#3
Hi.
You very likely have some bad solder points in the ABS module where it supplies power for the pump. This is a common fault due to so called "dry soldering" from the factory.
It is a fairly easy repair if you are handy with a soldering iron. The hard part is to open the module. Some forum members have carefully drilled a hole in the lid of the box.
If you do a search, you will find numerous threads on the subject.
It is also covered in the "stickies".
You very likely have some bad solder points in the ABS module where it supplies power for the pump. This is a common fault due to so called "dry soldering" from the factory.
It is a fairly easy repair if you are handy with a soldering iron. The hard part is to open the module. Some forum members have carefully drilled a hole in the lid of the box.
If you do a search, you will find numerous threads on the subject.
It is also covered in the "stickies".
#4
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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#5
I am "ok" at soldering, as long as it isn't a surface mount. I will check out the stickies, but considering that sending it away is relatively cheap I will probably go that route.
JgaXkr how much are you wanting for one of yours?
Also looking at it, I am pretty sure I am going to have to remove 4 brake lines from the ABS block to get the CM off (which is a really bad design). How do you bleed the ABS block after you do that? Do you just bleed it at all the wheels as normal? JTS again doesn't really go into this, just says "bleed the brakes" but that looks like a long way for the air to go.
JgaXkr how much are you wanting for one of yours?
Also looking at it, I am pretty sure I am going to have to remove 4 brake lines from the ABS block to get the CM off (which is a really bad design). How do you bleed the ABS block after you do that? Do you just bleed it at all the wheels as normal? JTS again doesn't really go into this, just says "bleed the brakes" but that looks like a long way for the air to go.
Last edited by auburn2; 07-18-2015 at 11:54 AM.
#6
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,183 Likes
on
1,355 Posts
#7
I am "ok" at soldering, as long as it isn't a surface mount. I will check out the stickies, but considering that sending it away is relatively cheap I will probably go that route.
JgaXkr how much are you wanting for one of yours?
Also looking at it, I am pretty sure I am going to have to remove 4 brake lines from the ABS block to get the CM off (which is a really bad design). How do you bleed the ABS block after you do that? Do you just bleed it at all the wheels as normal? JTS again doesn't really go into this, just says "bleed the brakes" but that looks like a long way for the air to go.
JgaXkr how much are you wanting for one of yours?
Also looking at it, I am pretty sure I am going to have to remove 4 brake lines from the ABS block to get the CM off (which is a really bad design). How do you bleed the ABS block after you do that? Do you just bleed it at all the wheels as normal? JTS again doesn't really go into this, just says "bleed the brakes" but that looks like a long way for the air to go.
As Brutal says you can get away without disconnecting the brake lines but I chose to undo mine and use the opportunity to replace the brake fluid at the same time - it should be renewed every two years and I didn't know the history of mine. And yes, you just bleed the brakes at the wheels as normal. I did it on my own with a vacuum brake bleeder I bought from Harbor Freight at $39.
Last edited by batroute; 07-19-2015 at 03:29 AM.
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