During my Change out of the secondary timing chain tensioner (Zip Tie Method), I looked at the instructions

EZDriver Step 11/ Torque the cambolts and secondary tensioner down. Think the correct torque is 80N.

This is wrong 11 nm is the correct torque however I now need to change out my cam bolts as I over-torqued them loosened them and re-torqued them at 11nm.

Does anyone know what the correct Ford Part Number is for Replacement Bolts?

 

Perhaps call a Ford dealer asking for them for a 2002 Lincoln LS 3.9L.

 

I don't know about the cam bolt part numbers, but I noticed when I did mine that there seemed to be thread locker on the threads of the bolts.

They took a lot of torque to break them loose and you could "smell" the thread locker as each one broke loose.

I never saw any instructions to put thread locker on the bolts during reassembly, but I'm pretty sure it was there from the factory.

Anyone else notice this when doing the tensioners? Opinions?

Vector

 

How about a Jaguar Part Number?

I am concerned that by over-torquing and then loosening and re-torquing I may have stretched the bolt.

It is an amazing ride working on my Jaguar! You have to enjoy the adventure.

 

Jaguar C2C3872: Jaguar Parts - Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com, M6x35mm

I did notice quie a bit of torque to break them loose, but did not see or smell threadlocker myself.

 

 

110-130nm for the cam sprockets.
Page 27 of the AJV8 assembly section.
I reused them.
The camshaft caps, discussed in this thread are 9-11nm.

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...Code%20168.pdf

From Gus's website, donated by motorcarman. It will give you all the torques for the engine. I have it downloaded on my phone and use it quite often.

 

With my tensioner replacement, I found the cam cap bolts had been thread locked by the previous mechanic (who had also replaced the camshaft caps out of order). In removing one set, the bolts/block became stripped and I used heli-coils to repair it. After that misadventure, I did not use thread locker in re-assembly, though I used it generously on other bolts in the system. No problems after several hundred miles, fingers crossed. If I recall, I used new bolts throughout (on the cam caps).

 

When I did this job on my XJ8, factory spec I believe was 68-72 in/lb iirc. Frankly I wouldn't spend my money on Jaguar or Ford brand bolts, what I did was went over to Fastenal and purchased the requisite number of bolts (they have a device you just put the bolt in and will give you the thread) and the length. If I remember correctly they were something like $0.58 each. I'd get the anodized (black) bolts, and get grade 8 or class 10 (European equivalent to grade 8). Not 8.8 which they will likely have in store.

 

Ordered new cam cap bolts. They are hollow, shorter than the ones removed, and have different size shoulders. The ones removed are solid, not hollow. Which should be used ?

 

Hollow bolts?
I'd only expect to find them in a banjo connection, or otherwise where an oil or fluid supply is involved.

What part # do they carry?
The JEPC lists C2C3872 as a M6 x35mm 'Hexagonal head flanged bolt', as does the Heritage site.

I wouldn't use them unless I could fully confirm they were correct, even though the torque figure is low.

 

I don't recall any hollow bolts and I replaced all of my cam block bolts with new bolts. I think they were NOS from someone on eBay or a Jaguar dealer with NOS parts. Either way, they were the correct Jaguar part and weren't too expensive. I would use the Jaguar part as michaelh listed above to avoid any issues.

The bolts that came with my new tensioners looked like grade 5s from the corner hardware store, but they were the correct, shorter length. So I used them. Probably not the best call, but they've held up.

If you note my 2018 post above, I only had a few hundred miles on all of these at the time, including one heli-coil. Now I have about 14,000 miles on them. Finger crossed for 14,001.

FYI, this post started in 2013. Oldie but goodie.