Wondering if you can remove the shine and expose the natural wood underneath?

 

I suppose you could but the wood is only a paper thin veneer.

Graham

 

Baltimoron,

Why? Not sure you want to do this, as sanding this is a very tedious operation. Considering the thin wood vaneer, you'll need a "micron by micron" fine sand paper effort to remove the lacquer finish so as not to damage/thin the wood underneath.

I'm not even sure if it's a PU or a resin finish you're removing, so are you considering a chemical removal? Note any wetness may stain the wood too. I previously had a 1972 Triumph with some wood inlays and when I wet wiped, during an interior clean, I found water had ingressed through the old cracks in the varnish and had darkened the wood underneath.

 

No, it will not turn out well. the wood needs the protection it is to thin.

 

David, good but scary point about contamination via the crack. Seems obvious once you said it, now I'll be extra careful.

I sure do wish we could get a conclusive answer about what Jaguar used as the finish on this wood. Everyone forgive me if I've forgotten but I don't think we've ever gotten further than answers from experienced members that while based on probably/ likelihood.

Tough one, I've asked several restoration businesses that specialize in this trim, bu tnever got a response. FWIW if anyone could confirm that the series 3 XJ6 used the same finish I have a large piece of the finished wood from that car and would be happy to use it to get the answer. I saved it for this very purpose when I got rid of that Jag.

If anyone knows, jump in and tell us.

Thanks,

John

 

Can't answer the question about the XJ6, but I can confirm that the dash wood is finished in some type of polyurethane; pretty much the same clear finish on most modern guitars. TOUGH and very labor intensive to remove, and there's about 102 ways to completely ruin the veneer underneath in a split second, because it's paper thin.

If you removed the finish, given the conditions a vehicle sees, the veneer would eventually warp and or do some things equally bad, as it would suck up moisture when it's humid, and dry out during dry times..unfinished wood is always expanding and contracting with the relative humidity, heat, cold, etc.

IF it's JUST the shine you want to get rid of...just a suggestion, you could hit it with some fine steel wool, or fine sand paper. I've done this to a few guitar necks because it gives them a flat, very smooth, velvety feel. And because of the nature of poly, being extremely tough, the shine can be brought back again if desired.

Just an idea

 

You can call Automotive Wood Restoration and see if they will tell you how it is done??

We just removed and sent the veneer to Madera Concepts when necessary. They were (still are?) the authorized repair facility.

TSB from long ago.

bob

 

Madera still is bob, however the clear does not crack like years ago.
Now its just the dash peeling, soft touch sticky buttons and rear xk8 glass falling in on the soft tops

 

Bob, great suggestion. While they never answered my email in the past, I took Bob's advice and gave them a call. Jessica couldn't have been nicer. It is a polyurethane based finish.

Bob, we appreciate you man. We finally have confirmation of dbtk44's statement. He/she deserves credit too.

To David's comment about sandpaper, I'd suggest restorers look into "Micro Mesh" brand sandpapers. They sell progressive grits 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 3000, 5000, up to 10,000. The 10,000 feels like loose leaf paper to your fingers, but wow what a polish. Inside tip on that stuff, go to new Jersey Scientific for the best prices.

John