Jim - not sure but trying to find in the service manual and will advise - still a rookie owner but had printed codes a few weeks back when a restricted performance showed up on the display.

 

Jim - some additional info found while looking through JTIS - looks like the sensor is on the throttle body near the cable - trying to copy diagram but not cooperating and more info on P1000:
When the DTCs relating to a rectified concern are cleared, P1000 (system checks not complete since last memory clear) will be flagged. This DTC does not indicate a failure, just that diagnostic drive cycles need to be performed. The vehicle's on-board diagnostic system will confirm that all the diagnostic drive cycles are complete by flagging P1111, (system checks complete since last memory clear)

 

Use this for your codes and what they mean.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...7_ECM_2000.pdf

As for the P1121 you should read this and if you still want to adjust the cable do so.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I would hold off on replacing your plugs I think your TB malfunction is causing your misfire. If the car went into restricted performance and were trying to get it to go faster than the 2000rmp and it refused to do so this could cause a misfire.

As for the battery get it load tested to be sure it is ok.

 

Gus the confusing part of this is after the 3rd restricted performance(stopping and restarting), the car ran fine for 85 miles at interstate speed. After I have the battery tested should I clear the codes and see if they reset?

 

Chances are that if you clear the codes you will experience the same situation; it will run fine for a few then it dies on you. The big question is will it die on you when you need it the most. Many have experienced the same situation and the repair was a TB R&R or Rebuild. Read my situation and you will see the time I had with mine and I let it go too long to be safe.

 

Well I had the battery load tested yesterday. It was reading 100% at the start of the test. Test 1 it dropped to 80% and the second test to 70%. So installed a new battery. Drove for 100 miles and no new codes, life was getting good. Decide to take the wife to lunch and switch the cars, when she returned to her office she used the key instead of the fob to lock the car. The windows went down and the alarm went off. She was rather upset. Long story short and $27 K later she drives off in a new car.

Check for codes this morning nothing showing, reset the windows and car is running fine. I and check on a TB rebuild but I still think I have a sensor that has gotten wet. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

 

I have got to get a new lap top its starting to get a mind of its own too. Ha

 

With that code I find it unlikely to be anything other than the TB unless your code was P0121 now that is a plug compatibility problem.

 

Try cleaning the plugs on to the throttle body(use electrical contact cleaner) just in case you have moisture in there - also make sure the retaining clips are fully home and working properly - if not zip clip them on.Gus is probably correct but doesn't hurt to check the basics first - much cheaper!!

 

Use this link to see what plug and how for a P0121 code

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Thanks Gus, unfortunately when the battery was installed all the codes cleared and the car has not set any new ones. I could have very easly written the incorrect code down. Thanks for the link and I will definitely check the connections. Jim

 

Cleaned all the contacts on the TB and found on that one was a little loose. Some of the seals were showing their age so I added a little dielectric grease around the seals and the locking clips are holding tight. Drove her for about an hour and still no codes. With the boss having a new car and will not be using the Jag daily its time to inspect the front bushing, sensors, brakes, replace the remaining heater hose, plugs, and clean every sensor that I fined. I still think the heavy rains and flooded streets got a sensor wet causing the ECU to go a little crazy. Only time will tell or I get lucky and find it during my maintenance projects. After 17,000 miles and only minor hydraulic leak on the lift cylinder due to the fitting being loose and the seat forward and reverse button coming off. I could not ask for a better driving machine.
Just a foot note: my son is home from Korea and set a code on his Ford F150 4X4 with a 5.4 engine (spark plug misfire). We started to change the plugs and 6 1/2 hours later we still have 4 more to go. The Indy charges $100 to $120 per plug, I think I am going to take it to the shop and tell my son Merry Christmas. I will never complain again about working on the Jag. Thanks again Jim

 

Chances are that you have one or many coil packs that are failing, this is a common problem with Ford 4.6 and above. As for the plugs they are deep on the head take a PB Blaster and spray a little down the plug side and work the plug Tight then Loosen and do not force it and it will come out.

 

+1 on your process I even ran the truck hoping that the expansion/contraction would help and it did but what a pain. Plus added anti sieze to the new plugs. Changed the plugs in a Chevy 5.3 and a Dodge 3.2 last week and spend about maybe 2 hrs total a piece. It is absolutely amazing how much room we have under the bonnet of the Jag in comparison to the Ford truck. Thanks for your help Gus. Jim

 

You may want to check on the anti-seize, from what I understand that is part of the problem with the plugs not coming out. It seems that if an excessive amount is used and it is on the shaft of the plug (not the threaded part) it will become part of the carbon buildup that prevents it from coming out.

 

Well the old girl set her codes again Wed. P1121, P0358, and P0356. Restarted the engine and P0358 disappeared. Friday started to remove the TB, had the air intake off and unplugged the electrical connectors on the r side of the car. Had a problem at work so I reconnected ever thing and drove it to the office. When i checked the dash the check engine light was off. Recheck the codes when I got home and it still read P1121. Opened the bonnet played with the 2 connectors and the check engine light was back on. The connector on the top right was of the TB was the problem. Seal was cracked and loose. Added some dielectric grease and a wire tie to hold it in place. Reset the codes and went to the cabin for the weekend. 250 miles later the cat is purring. Interesting?? Jim