Hey guys and girls,
Hope you're all staying safe in these crazy times!
I have an 04 xkr with the electronic shocks dampers R performance (I think from vin decoder)
How can you check these struts! Is pushing it to feel the resistance a good check at all regarding the fact that it's activated and working with electricity? I'd think no, but may be wrong. Is there also a way, more efficient and reliable, and also easier to test these guys, a voltmeter maybe? Something that tells it's low on fluid, or maybe with the resistance reading ?
Can/should the test be run 'hot' ie with ignition on? Maybe just a battery hooked to a voltmeter and it's connectors at the top for resistance ? I suppose it would test the hard mode being by default. Btw does hard mode mean the strut resistance/force is greater and it's harder to push, or the contrary? Hard mode let you feel everything on the road so I would think it's a softer resistance, less force downward towards the road.
Manual push test, readings, I'm open to any suggestions.
If anybody know please let me know how to proceed, that would be terrific!

Thank you everyone. Be safe.

 

To my knowledge, only the rebound is adjustable. Compression remains constant. When there are issues, there is normally a message scrolling in the message center. Only quick test I can think of is to disconnect the module in the trunk and test drive as this system defaults stiff. It is apparently very noticeable. The better answer is of course to read whatever codes the module provides, but it requires a Jaguar/Land Rover code scanner.

Other thing is to verify the hardware itself. Leaks would be the most obvious, but the larger condition of the suspension components can play a role (think failed upper shock mounts or lower shock joint, VERY common problems).

Is there a specific issue that makes you question this system?

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

To test the CATS suspension is working correctly, you need to connect a multimeter to the drivers side front shock (I used posi taps to do this) and run a cable back to the cabin, so you can rest the multimeter on the dashboard. These are the readings you should get on the voltage range:-

Ignition off 0v
Ignition on stationary 0v
Above 5kmh 5.7v (forward or in reverse)
0v means the shock is in hard mode, 5.7v means it is in soft mode.

Go for a drive around and watch the voltage change - you should see it switch to hard mode as you come to a stop, go round corners, go over bumps, or by wiggling the steering wheel over 50mph to rock the car. You will feel the handling of the car change as the system switches between the modes.

If you unplug the connector from the shock, you should get the message SUSPENSION FAULT on the dashboard - you can easily test the front shocks are connected ok by doing this. On my car I found the lateral accelerometer wasn't working so the suspension was in soft mode - there was no error message - contact cleaner and reseating the plug fixed the problem.

You should also check the fuses are good - the handbook lists them - my notes say:-Fuses 2 and 4 in the boot fuse box (5 amp and 20 amp).

 

Great advices. Thanks. I'll try it.
Dibbit, is there a positive/negative to respect on the shocks connectors at the top or doesn't matter? To remove the plug do I have to twist the plastic knob with the 2 wires? This connectors look fragile so...it's a small round plastic cylinder about 2/3" long with 2 wires going through, not sure if I should just pop it or twist it to remove.

Fmertz, it's because I want to rule out that the shocks are worn out or if it leaked fluids at some point. I didn't see any marks but it could have been cleaned. It feels like the shocks are worn out and the car is handling very poorly. I wondered if it could be low on fluid but still work. I was hoping maybe a resistance reading would tell me low or normal fluid but not sure how that works.
Otherwise I also have the intermittent DSC system fault message then and there, goes away, comes back, so I want to rule out bad shocks before continuing my investigation on that. I've cleaned all 4 speed sensors behind the wheel, is that the lateral sensor you mentioned? Cleaned the speed wheel too (ones with sprockets).
The poor handling makes the car a bit scary to drive specially at higher speed. The belly tends to rebound so low that it touches the road on dips! It is scary for sure when that happens.
I'm pretty sure the upper mount (disk), just at the top, is beat up and flattened, and needs replacing but I wanted to make sure I don't have to replace the strut as well before getting into that since it requires unmounting everything anyways. Lower bushings seem ok.
Otherwise, I have the schematics for the DSC unit seating at the rear of the trunk. But I'm not sure how to test it with my multimeter. For continuity maybe?
I'll check the fuses but I think the DSC fault would be permanent if it was that.
The error message is common on our cars, but the poor handling is my top priority. The belly touching the road at rebound over dips needs to be tackled first for sure.

Thanks a lot for the advices.

 

Well, a worn out upper mount will drop your ride height, and by a lot. Check it, as per the vehicle spec book on jagrepair.com. Low height is also excess camber and probably bad toe as well, all contributing to the scary feeling.

The DSC message should be a priority. Likely to be due to an older battery, especially if the message shows up during startup. Likely to be a lead wires to a sensor otherwise, most likely on the front (a code reader would give you the exact location).

Honestly, if you are considering spending what these shocks cost ($300 ea), I would say get a proper JLR code reader first in case there is a non trivial error with the system. To my knowledge, these shocks are made by Bilstein and are normally well made and durable. Folks do not seem to post a lot about being forced to replace them. You also have to check into the exact mechanism these shocks use to adjust, but I do not believe you would be able to tell the fluid level by resistance alone.

 

I understand. Very useful info. Thanks!
It's true, the DSC error appears at start sometimes before even moving and seems to happen less when the battery is full(er), or was driven recently..
To test the shocks, does watching the number of rebounds work when pushing down firmly on the end of the car? Or is it not a reliable tell being an adaptive shock and all?
​​​​​​The ride is definitely low and I guess the top donut needs to be changed, but my concern is that even with that, an inch extra in height, that won't prevent the rebound down to hit the road on deep dip at speed. Something is too soft. Can the springs too worn out maybe? I have no idea how to set the adjustment higher on those tbh.
I'll follow your advice and try to fix the DSC fault first. I don't have the ids software (for my 2004, sdd won't work ) or the expensive JLR mangoose cable from drewtech. But I guess a good scanner might help. The reason DSC fault was never my first priority, is because it just made the ride harder. On the other end the car belly banging the ground felt like losing control of the car.
Next up, I guess changing the upper mount thingy. It's the donut thing right? I don't have the traditional metal done but just the donut mount right under the top with the connectors.
I've read there's a brand to avoid, is that uro? Something about a bad brand to avoid.

Thanks

 

Quick question, they say the Bilstein 46mm monotubes fit my car on Amazon. That is if I'm walking away from the cats set (adaptive shocks not meow meow or the theatrical show).
So what's this 46mm spec? Do these work on our cars to switch to non adaptive?

Thanks

 

To remove the plug, squeeze the two longer sides and pull up - don't twist it. The wires and connectors are tough (at least on mine). If you are using a digitial multimeter it doesn't matter which way round you connect it, its just the value you are interested in. If you are using an analogue meter and the needle goes the wrong way, reverse the connections.

I agree with you on the handling - if the CATS are permanently in soft mode the car wallows around and doesn't feel safe at motorway speeds. When I fixed my accelerometer it made a noticeable improvement.

 

I don't have longer sides, it's a plain, pink cylinder shape, kind of like a radio knob. With the wires going inside. No clips. I never dare to force it out because of this.

Thanks

 

Look into the poly mount from Welsh Ent in Ohio. This is largely recognized as the best part for the job. The Jaguar part just crumbles again after a while.

Some folks have definitely converted from CATS to conventional Bilstein shocks. Expect $100 EA. I believe the control module can be powered off and no message shows up.

 

This is what mine looks like. The grey part is the clip that needs to be squeezed to pull it out.

 

Interesting! Mine looks like just the inside part of yours, the pink part in the middle. There's no black/grey plastic around on mine, just the center pink cylinder in the middle with the 2 wires.. As a matter of fact even the upper mount looks different on mine. I'll take a picture tonight. Maybe yours is a different year.
Did you clip the extra wires on the connectors? I didn't realize you put a permanent set to check your cats, great idea BTW. It looks like you voltmeter wires just clip through the harness wires.
Thanks

 

https://www.welshent.com/Jaguar-Uppe...ne-P26374.aspx
These look amazing fmertz. Looks solid. Mines do not look like it at all!

 

Either yours is different or broken, lol. Mine is a 2001 - if you post a photo I'm sure someone can confirm if it is correct.

Yes, I have wired it up permanently - the idea is to have an LED on the dashboard showing the status of the suspension. I haven't finished it yet, so that will be a Coronavirus project.

 

I don't think it's broken since I can enable/disable the DSC ok, and the fault comes at times. So I'd say it works, most of the time at least. But yeah, it's weird. I'll take a picture for you.

About the led, you bet! That's a great idea. I always wondered how often and when this switch happens. I'd expect your light is going to go back and forth on and off 100 times per second .. ok . per minute maybe,.
How would you do that? A led connected to a resistance that lights when the volt is up? If be looking at it non stop instead of the road. Lol.
​​​​​Did I ever ask you what state / city you're in? How bad is the virus there?
take care

 

I'm actually missing the pink part. But looking more closely could see the clips to press on and remove the connectors. It's a black cylinder mounted on a bolt on top of the rubber top mounts.
See my new post, the mounts are powder ! Not flatten.
Thanks

 

Hi,
My ride is too low but and the rebound down, over a dip, is so bad that the car front belly touches the road. I have to change the front upper mounts that are like a dry sponge though still holding a decent thickness.
​​​​​​I have an 04 convertible xkr with R performance, so struts, springs, and others need to be labeled R performance. Problem is that they don't produce any adaptive +R performance springs for the convertible xkr anymore. I assume the R performance means shorter and stiffer springs, and I don't really care for it. Question is, can I use R performance springs on adaptive +R performance struts or do I need to change these too? If it's just the spring height being shorter should it matter for the car to handle well?

I'm really confused because I've read the convertible x100 need a longer spring than the coupe. Yet R performance has shorter springs. So what do I do with R performance + convertible then? I found springs rated for xkr convertible + adaptive dampers but non R performance. Would these fit with the struts being R performance + adaptive on a convertible?

​​​​​Pain in the butt!! With the discontinuations and all the combinations. I just want the car to not feel like it's driving on ice at this point..any suggestions? I would like to at least keep the electronic/adaptive feature. But definitely need the front springs to be changed.

Thanks in advance.

 

Starting a new thread with my previous question.