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when I replaced mine, I don't remember any issue with the oil cooler lines and I had the inner tie rods removed for replacement but think if you just move the bellows out of the way, you would be ok. Also - a 33MM socket is the best fit to press out the old bushings!!!! They are a PITA and took quite a bit but once removed, the power flex went in nice and easy. Hopefully the lower ball joints are good as those were the BIGGEST PITA to press in new ones
I somehow missed this thread, it's a great reference!
Man, I really hope I don't have to replace ball joints anytime soon, upper or lower. Hopefully, the new bushings, links, outer tie-rod ends, and shock mounts I'm installing will be sufficient!
One of many ideas I've gotten from John at ToTheGarage was to use a chain hooked to the frame to hold the wheel hub in place while working on the suspension. I made a variant of it using a turnbuckle and carabiners for easy height adjustment and thought I'd share.
Nice, are you planning to replace the lower control arm bushings by any chance?
No, I only did the upper wishbone bushes and the shock bush. Everything else is looking good, so I don't have any tips on those.
I've finally got everything done and back in the car and the new mounts look very good:-
Wheels are going back on this afternoon and we'll try it out.
One thing I did find is the bolt holding the upper wishbone in place was a PITA to get out (again). No corrosion but it seems to bind on the big dished washers either side of the bushes. If those washers aren't completely vertical, it locks solid.
One thing I did do when reassembling everything, was to use thread lock to glue the alignment shim washers to the dished washers, so they can be inserted as one unit. That saved a lot of swearing. 😁
No, I only did the upper wishbone bushes and the shock bush. Everything else is looking good, so I don't have any tips on those.
I've finally got everything done and back in the car and the new mounts look very good:-
Wheels are going back on this afternoon and we'll try it out.
One thing I did find is the bolt holding the upper wishbone in place was a PITA to get out (again). No corrosion but it seems to bind on the big dished washers either side of the bushes. If those washers aren't completely vertical, it locks solid.
One thing I did do when reassembling everything, was to use thread lock to glue the alignment shim washers to the dished washers, so they can be inserted as one unit. That saved a lot of swearing. 😁
That's brilliant, wish I had thought of that before I re-installed on the passenger side. I'll do it on the driver's side when I get to that. That said, both bolts did come out real easily on both sides, presumably I got lucky.
Speaking of thread lock, I just noted blue residue on the threads of the still-to-be-assembled driver's side shock stud, so likely there was Locktite on it before the retainer nut was screwed on. Should I worry that I didn't put Locktite on the passenger-side stud before assembling the strut?
I can't see that top nut needs thread lock - even if it came loose and fell off, surely the shock can't go anywhere when it's bolted in the car, it only holds it all together when the shock tower is out of the car?
That's brilliant, wish I had thought of that before I re-installed on the passenger side. I'll do it on the driver's side when I get to that. That said, both bolts did come out real easily on both sides, presumably I got lucky.
Speaking of thread lock, I just noted blue residue on the threads of the still-to-be-assembled driver's side shock stud, so likely there was Locktite on it before the retainer nut was screwed on. Should I worry that I didn't put Locktite on the passenger-side stud before assembling the strut?
As dibbit mentioned, l have never come across thread locked mount studs/nuts. Just tighten to spec, they are going nowhere.
I'm thinking about how to minimize the time for the suspension to settle in after assembly, and the best way I can see is to put a jack on the lower control arm right under the shock bolt and lift it until the jack stand on that side almost disengages, thereby simulating the load of resting on the tire. Only then will I torque the various bolts and studs, i.e. fulcrum, shock bushing, stabilizer link, and tie-rod end.
Does this make sense?
I'm thinking about how to minimize the time for the suspension to settle in after assembly, and the best way I can see is to put a jack on the lower control arm right under the shock bolt and lift it until the jack stand on that side almost disengages, thereby simulating the load of resting on the tire. Only then will I torque the various bolts and studs, i.e. fulcrum, shock bushing, stabilizer link, and tie-rod end.
Does this make sense?
If you are replacing OEM lower control arm bushings with poly there is no need to lower car or apply the force you mention. Poly bushes, the jaguar upper control arm bushes and the damper bottom joint are free moving joints and apply no twisting force like the bonded rubber type bushes.
If you are replacing OEM lower control arm bushings with poly there is no need to lower car or apply the force you mention. Poly bushes, the jaguar upper control arm bushes and the damper bottom joint are free moving joints and apply no twisting force like the bonded rubber type bushes.
Ok, so then maybe I shouldn't expect to see much post-install settlement at all then? We have road salt season here in PA right now so I won't rack up the few hundred miles I see older posts claim are needed for full ride height steady-state to occur until this spring sometime.
Thanks!
