Everything had been going smoothly, but even after removing the
exhaust cam caps, I still can't get the old tensioner free.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

 

First, put the cam caps back on.

Then rotate the engine usng the crankshaft bolt and long handled ratchet until none of the exhaust cams are depressing valves (tops of all valves are the same height).

Now remove the cam caps again. This time you should be able to easily lift up the camshaft to gain access to the tensioner.

 

Just got back from buying a 24mm socket, and having turned the crankshaft as advisedI had no further trouble removing the tensioner.

One more question; Regarding the two bottom rear bolts on the cover, which are diffucult to reach, is there any way to properly torque them down, or do you just have to wing it?

Thanks,

Malcolm

 

I was able to torque using 1/4" universal and extensions. I think wobble extensions may work also.

 

Update-

Finished off the right bank yesterday with no further problems. Took about 2 hours in total. There is a small oil leak somewhere though which I will have to track down. (Smoking oil on the drip tray underneath the cam cover). This is a bit puzzling because I inserted new gaskets and torqued all the bolts.

Anyway, off to tackle the left bank now.

 

Remember to pull the full injector relay before you crank the engine for the first time with the new tensioners to allow them to fill with oil.

Not doing this risks having the chain jump a tooth.

 

Did you remember to put an inch long slither of "silicon gasket" where the cam tower joins the front cam chain cover on each side ? That's the usual spot for a small leak as the new gasket often doesn't seal at that spot.