OP here, finally got around and had the Jag shop read the proper C codes.
The following codes were read with the ABS/TRAC issue that's been going on with the XK8:

C1233, LEFT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
C1145, WHEEL SPEED FRONT RIGHT
C1234, FRONT RIGHT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
C1095, PUMP MOTOR CIRCUIT

So what's the pump motor circuit? Would the pump motor circuit cause the other codes to fire?

Thanks.

 

the 1095 is classic indicator code that it needs rebuilt, the other sensor codes may or may not be related. Last time I helped with a bad abs module, only the C1095 code was there. You may have both a bad ABS and some wiring/harness issues.

First, I'd send off the module for repair,then see if the sensor codes return and proceed accordingly.

 

Nice, will send the failed module out then. Hope to be back after a week and post results.

 

My module says it was made in the Philippines. I didn't know the PI had any plants that made electronics that sophisticated, or that Jaguar.....oops....Jaguar/FORD would use their stuff. Question: Did the A.S. shop say they would fix your module even after it had been opened? We are reading that some shops will not touch ones that have been opened up. Maybe they don't want us to know how simple the repair really is, and that it is NOT a major job.

Ken

 

My module says it was made in the Philippines. I didn't know the PI had any plants that made electronics that sophisticated, or that Jaguar.....oops....Jaguar/FORD would use their stuff. Question: Did the A.S. shop say they would fix your module even after it had been opened? We are reading that some shops will not touch ones that have been opened up. Maybe they don't want us to know how simple the repair really is, and that it is NOT a major job.

Ken

 

An old thread, so an old stat for you:-

 

Thank you for your reply and info. I am trying to find owners who actually SOLVED their ABS/TCCM and now CEL issue. Jag Yi left us hanging, so I don't know if he solved it via the module rebuild or any other method....or not at all.

These horror stories seem to go on and on, worse when modules are replaced after "rebuilding". Some who do their own R&R and re-solder seem to have immediate success while others just keep going in circles with even MORE idiot lights flashing. That would be my case. If these modules are being "disconnected" from the CAN bus due to the broken solder joints to the ABS pump, and then showing NO connection after a re-solder and reinstall.....WTH is happening?

Because I am now getting the ridiculous "incorrect part installed" from my original module, I have to assume the whole system is either corrupted or badly programmed from Day 1. I also have no speedo or ODO. Otherwise, the car starts and runs and drives great.

 

If your speedo/odo are out (?), you may have bigger electrical problems.

What is the full panoply of ODBII codes you have?

 

The P1637 is the only one. Yeah...I did see someone else who lost their speedo, but can't remember when that corrected if it did.

 

I think a check of the ABS connection plug/socket for damaged pins may be in order.

 

Just the 1637, and I thought I got rid of it....but not so much.


After the hard reset and letting it sit for a day with the battery disconnected I started her up and VOILA! No more CEL! So, I drove it around our backwoods and small highways for at least 50 miles....all still with NO speedo or ODO, and the CEL stayed gone. The other flashing warnings stayed on, and the ABS light never went off. I parked in my driveway and shut it off. Started it up and the CEL and code were back. Tried multiple restarts and it persists. I ALSO NOW HAVE A BEEPING ALARM OF SOME KIND THAT STOPS AFTER i REMOVE THE KEY. WTH IS THAT??? I disconnected the battery again to check later. Battery read 12.86 V before initial restart.

 

An update to my last post about the on and off CEL and that dang "beeping".

Quick update. After leaving the battery disconnected overnight from a NON-CEL start yesterday, I hooked up and started the car to put it in the garage. Easy start, NO CEL, ABS light flashed and then stayed on, and NO BEEPING WHEN I REMOVED THE KEY. So, it sits awaiting my attention.

 

The most current update is that I pulled the module again and sent it to ModuleRepair Pro, inc. in Van Nuys, CA. It cost $100 for the repair, plus shipping both ways. After answering all my questions, they had it back in about a week with shipping both ways, I reinstalled it, and everything works as it should.....except now I have a power steering leak that will have to wait for better weather. I highly recommend the Module Repair Pro service.

 

Update: After having the ABS module repaired, everything was fine, but my PAS pump blew its seal. Worse job than R&R the module, but it got done. On the 3rd drive out to reset the emissions computers, I stupidly left my lights on for a bit while in a store, came out, cranked it up....and ALL the lights were back.

Went home, read codes (P1637, P1111(?)). P1111 just says the scan was complete. But it turns out the P1637 may indicate the ABS module has a problem, it is more of as "general" defect code that does not pinpoint the real problem. I guess there are so many ABS power contact issues it has become the "go to" repair. It seemd to fix mine, but one low battery start and I'm back where I was a year ago.

Gino at Module Repair Pros says the most likely failure now is the ECU. I've heard that it can be a CAN problem. So, I'll remove and inspect it tomorrow. The big issue is that most electronics in the 1990s are full of crappy capacitors and even mire crappy non-lead solder. We'll see what's happening inside the "box". At least it's easy to remove.

Ken