Cockeyed Window - Regulator Replacement Solved
#1
Cockeyed Window - Regulator Replacement Solved
Guys,
I got great help from many of you with your posts including StuG and RaceDiagnostics. I'm happy to report I solved this problem and successfully replaced the Window Regulator today. I found a few things I haven't see in other posts so I'm going to add them for future reference.
1) Issue: Passenger Window went up/down cockeyed.
Root cause for this turns out to be debris (actually glass chunks from a window that broke years ago) finding its way into the upper channel. As you will see from the attached photos, the forward arm (connects to the window channel in the bottom front) uses this upper channel (located midway through the door - displays the adjustment bolt at the middle/rear of the door) as the window moves. A chunk of glass prevented the wheel at the upper end of the front arm from moving through the channel. This forced the window to tilt, bent the forward arm as it was twisted out of and destroyed the white nylon slider.
I couldn't figure out why just replacing that white nylon slider in the front and bending the front arm back to position did not clear the problem. The front arm kept popping out of the slider as the window went up. Might as well admit here that I was kind of lucky it popped out, turns out I didn't have it seated 100% in the whilte nylon slider (more on that below). If it was perfectly seated, I'm sure the obstruction in the upper channel would bend the arm and destroy the white nylon slider again.
2) Seating the ***** into the white nylon sliders. I'm a big guy and I could not accomplish this by hand. Just no leverage. I tried many different things, from clamps to levers - no luck. Then I remembered a tool I have, a Welder's Pliers. This is pretty much a Channel Wrench or tongue and groove pliers on seriods, it is larger in all dimensions. There is enough room to get the pliers's jaws on the front and the back of the arm ball / slider / window and squeeze - BANG! the ball seats perfectly.
It does not take too much presure with the right tool, don't worry about causing damage. I highlighted "BANG" for a reason. When these ***** seat properly - you will know it. It is almost loud enough to scare you.
So from experience I can now tell you that if you can see any part of the ball when looking at the white sliders - it is not properly seated. If you just here a "Click" when pushing the ball in - it is not properly seated. Like I said before it makes a loud noise when you get it right.
This was so damm easy with the welder's pliers I want to share it with everyone.
3) Installing / removing the regulator - It works when you position the black gear flush with either the top side or the bottom side. It came out fine when I had it flush with the bottom but I have to admit it went in much easier when it was flush with the top side.
4) How do I hold the window in a raised position as I remove / install the regulator? I used a small Grip Rite pipe clamp with soft rubber jaws. One jaw on the window's outside, one on the windows inside right above the door handle. Worked like a charm, give it a try. It doesn't take too much pressure at all to imobilize it.
5) Old regulator removal - You will have to disconnect the arms from the lower window channel. I found it easiest to raise the window all the way - you have easy access to the rear arm from a hole up top. I used a long nose pliers to pull off the retaining clip. Once that is off the ball comes out easily.
I did the same for the front arm by the window was lowered. REMEMBER - Be very careful with the retaining clips they can fly off anywhere. Yes they are magnetic but good luck finding one if it gets away from you (I lost one in the black hole of the door interior).
There is an excelent write up about the regulator removal https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1406575
This post is intended to compliment that with my latest findings. Hope it helps you.
This is the view from inside the car that you will see when you remove door skin.
View from other side. Note how front bottom arm (on right here) slides in the upper channel as window moves.
I got great help from many of you with your posts including StuG and RaceDiagnostics. I'm happy to report I solved this problem and successfully replaced the Window Regulator today. I found a few things I haven't see in other posts so I'm going to add them for future reference.
1) Issue: Passenger Window went up/down cockeyed.
Root cause for this turns out to be debris (actually glass chunks from a window that broke years ago) finding its way into the upper channel. As you will see from the attached photos, the forward arm (connects to the window channel in the bottom front) uses this upper channel (located midway through the door - displays the adjustment bolt at the middle/rear of the door) as the window moves. A chunk of glass prevented the wheel at the upper end of the front arm from moving through the channel. This forced the window to tilt, bent the forward arm as it was twisted out of and destroyed the white nylon slider.
I couldn't figure out why just replacing that white nylon slider in the front and bending the front arm back to position did not clear the problem. The front arm kept popping out of the slider as the window went up. Might as well admit here that I was kind of lucky it popped out, turns out I didn't have it seated 100% in the whilte nylon slider (more on that below). If it was perfectly seated, I'm sure the obstruction in the upper channel would bend the arm and destroy the white nylon slider again.
2) Seating the ***** into the white nylon sliders. I'm a big guy and I could not accomplish this by hand. Just no leverage. I tried many different things, from clamps to levers - no luck. Then I remembered a tool I have, a Welder's Pliers. This is pretty much a Channel Wrench or tongue and groove pliers on seriods, it is larger in all dimensions. There is enough room to get the pliers's jaws on the front and the back of the arm ball / slider / window and squeeze - BANG! the ball seats perfectly.
It does not take too much presure with the right tool, don't worry about causing damage. I highlighted "BANG" for a reason. When these ***** seat properly - you will know it. It is almost loud enough to scare you.
So from experience I can now tell you that if you can see any part of the ball when looking at the white sliders - it is not properly seated. If you just here a "Click" when pushing the ball in - it is not properly seated. Like I said before it makes a loud noise when you get it right.
This was so damm easy with the welder's pliers I want to share it with everyone.
3) Installing / removing the regulator - It works when you position the black gear flush with either the top side or the bottom side. It came out fine when I had it flush with the bottom but I have to admit it went in much easier when it was flush with the top side.
4) How do I hold the window in a raised position as I remove / install the regulator? I used a small Grip Rite pipe clamp with soft rubber jaws. One jaw on the window's outside, one on the windows inside right above the door handle. Worked like a charm, give it a try. It doesn't take too much pressure at all to imobilize it.
5) Old regulator removal - You will have to disconnect the arms from the lower window channel. I found it easiest to raise the window all the way - you have easy access to the rear arm from a hole up top. I used a long nose pliers to pull off the retaining clip. Once that is off the ball comes out easily.
I did the same for the front arm by the window was lowered. REMEMBER - Be very careful with the retaining clips they can fly off anywhere. Yes they are magnetic but good luck finding one if it gets away from you (I lost one in the black hole of the door interior).
There is an excelent write up about the regulator removal https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1406575
This post is intended to compliment that with my latest findings. Hope it helps you.
This is the view from inside the car that you will see when you remove door skin.
View from other side. Note how front bottom arm (on right here) slides in the upper channel as window moves.
Last edited by Johnken; 02-24-2016 at 08:32 AM. Reason: typo
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