After l fixed the front end by replacing the upper shock mounts, shocks, upper control arm bushings, brake pads all around. I took the XK8 out for a ride to see how the new parts worked out. All the squeaks, rattles and clunks that came from the dash area are GONE!!. Those brace bars that goes from the shock mounts to the fire wall are real noise highways. It was a beautiful day in Late November in these parts of Pennsylvania. 65+F degrees. I just had to take the top down one last time for the season. Low and behold DRIP DRIP DRIP. then a few words escaped my lips that would have made a truck driving sailor blush. I looked this issue up here on the Forum, Found the caps on E bay and printed out the instructions. May have to wait till spring to do the conversion as I don't do well in the cold. I think everyone with this issue should start a petition for Jaguar to do a mass recall. A permanent fix should be done. Thanks to you all, your making these problems much easier to deal with. I feel sorry for the ones who don't have the DIY skills. They really suffer.
1999 XK8 flip top.

 

Welcome to the club! The green shower seems just about inevitable regardless of the precautions taken. I had added the pressure reduction valve and only operated the top on battery power with the engine off. Still got it. The job of capping off the pump/hoses isn't bad — once you get the pump out of its mount. One thing I've learned is when putting the top up or down, let the pump run a couple of seconds longer than necessary. It seems to help avoid the Convertible Top Not Latched message. And shutting the key off for a second and turning it back to On, allows the rear windows to go up, which they won't do if the message is displayed. Maybe next Spring, I'll attack the hoses. Good luck.

 

I Just ordered 2 Caps for the Latches.Malone specialty... I had purchased 2 Caps at a Hardware store but the pressure is too much and they started to leak...

rs

 

There's really no substitute for using the correct DIN-standard port caps. They seal using an o-ring, and require only moderate tightening. See the "manual latch" link below for the spec, and a source (Malone) for obtaining them.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but I just joined the "green shower" club and thought I would give a thank you shout-out to Dennis07 (and the gang) for this manual fix.

I will use this method at least for now to give me more time to work up the courage to replace the hoses. Or possibly use it until I have trouble with the rams or their hoses, at which point I can do it all at once.

p.s. the invite-only order of the green shower was not an honor I was seeking, nor is it one I feel I deserve. I didn't even get a tee shirt out of the deal.

 

Don't take it too personally, Mike....

As they say, there are only two types of XK8/XKR convertibles: those that have had the green shower, and those that will have the green shower....

 

Hello.

I realize this is an old thread (so my apologies) but my car just threw up green fluid all over me. My poor kitty is in need of help. I am at a loss on what to do. I have thought about replacing the hoses and I guess I could do it but I think I'd much rather just do the manual method. I have a couple of questions for anyone who has done this.
1. Can you still get the fittings?
2. My hose blew at the top (hence the shower), can I just cap both off at the pump and be done with it?
3. All of my fluid also blew out (do I need to add more back to the pump)
4. Is there anything (other than resell) that would stop someone from just not going in this direction?

 

Greg,

1) The fittings are surely still available. They're DIN-standard components.
2) Yes, you can abandon the hoses in place. Put a rag under the pump ends when you disconnect them.
3) Yes, you need the pump fluid level to be correct. The pump will still be doing the work of raising and lowering the top.
4) Judgement call here. Car's value and your personal budget come into play of course. Don't let anybody tell you there is a "right" answer.

Good luck.

 

Great - couple of last questions --

1. Are there other hoses to burst (since you say the pump will be doing the work of raising and lowering the top?
2. Anyone know where I can purchase the fluid or should I just get that from Jaguar dealer?
3. Mine blew when the top was not quite all the way up off of the hook (maybe 1/2"). I used the manual method of using the wrench to open all the way and then a slight push on the back (as outlined in the forums) to lower the top. Any advice on getting things (windows) to work again or?

I think that is all of my questions.... You are awesome.

BTW: Larry at Malone Specialty was really great to deal with. He answered the phone and knew exactly what happened before I was able to finish giving him the part number of the first part. Apparently he ships these parts around the world each week and is just kind of sad that Jaguar made a vehicle that requires this kind of modification.

 

Quick question:

My top latch hoses were replaced just prior to me purchasing my car in 2015. When I checked the latch hoses, all shiny and new, they appear to have the same markings and are from the same manufacturer as the original ram hoses still onboard, only brand new; or, could they possibly be 'new old stock', and how could I tell if they are 'nos'?

Since this was/is a widespread problem across all the X100 convertible models, I would think that all the inferior hoses would have been scrapped or possibly already sold out by the manufacturer long ago, and the problem resolved with more robust hoses of a new material, in which case there would be no 'new old stock' of hoses, but realistically I doubt that was done. Is there a way to tell if the new latch hoses are an upgraded revision?

So, does anyone know if the manufacturers corrected the problem with the original hose material degrading and causing failure at the latch, or will I still face the 'green shower' from latch hose failure again, sometime in the future?

Thanks all

P.s. I have identified and located all the components I will need to easily and inexpensively convert the latch to electric operation, and do away with the hydraulic operation of the latch altogether. I will post a parts list, prices (<$100 bucks), and pictures after I collect all the necessary components and undergo what should be a very noninvasive modification.

 

If your hydraulic hose replacement was done by a Jaguar dealership (and let's hope it was NOT), they used the same inferior components as your car originally rolled off the factory floor with. The original hydraulic components were never upgraded or improved by Jaguar....

Aftermarket hoses and ram refurbishment by Top Hydraulics are far superior (as many owners have since discovered). If and when the hoses/rams fail on my wife's 2006 XK8, you can bet that Top Hydraulics will be the supplier I choose to order from....

 

This is a little information I put together on the roof operation and the hose and ram failures I hope it helps.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/HydSystemEvaluationXK8XKR.htm

Over the past several years several replacement hoses were developed for the roof system that were a bit more robust but unless they mark them it would be hard to identify.

Link to aftermarket hoses and ram rebuilds JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Many have expressed an interest in having the roof system converted to an electrical operation but we have yet to see it done. Please keep us posted as you take on this project.

 

1) Two more hydraulic circuits, driving rams to raise/lower the top. Search the topic here to get familiar with the components involved. The hoses in these circuits are much less likely to fail, but the rams themselves sometimes leak. Nowhere near as ugly to deal with as a latch hose failure.
2) Buy the Pentosyn 11 fluid anywhere but a dealer, unless money is no object.
3) For starters, there's a procedure in the Driver's Manual to raise the top manually; it should enable you to get the top up and the rear windows closed. The windows will probably work normally again when you have the manual latch mod in place and follow the prescribed steps to operate the top.

As you said, Larry has been great. Helped quite a few Jag owners deal with this problem.

 

with Dennis' help I converted to manual some years ago. I also put on the resistor. I have had zero problems. I would cap off the hoses and use the hex to raise and lower the latch.

 

1st, Thanx for putting the time into sharing your instruction, taking pictures, and listing parts source. I started taking parts off to get to the latch system and remove the hose. I got stuck at the windshield bar fascia on drivers side. I don't want to break it getting it off. Jag told me it would cost about 2 grand to have the hoses replaced, and they would have to do all 4 hoses.

The pump is behind/under the back seat yes? Also how does one replace the lost fluid and where would one get that fluid.
Thanx, Bertbo

 

Hey, Dennis!
Where does one insert the hex key to lower the latch?

Maybe at this point?
On the fabric surface near the top of the windscreen is a flat, round button covering something. It is near the top left corner of the right side visor. I put two thumbnails under it and it did not want to release, so I thought I should check in before removing a part that is well seated.

My latch is up and the dash warning is on. I want to lower the latch until I get to reparing the switches, etc. I have untill late October.
The top will be down until then.
Thanks.

 

What you described sounds like the right spot ... a blanking plug covers the spot where you insert the hex key to operate the latch. Keep trying gently to get it to release; the plug should pop out.
Be sure of course to open the petcock at the hydraulic pump before attempting to operate the latch manually. You will feel some smooth resistance to operating the latch, but not a lot of force required.