I was riding the other day in my 98xk8, at a stop light, I decide to shut the top, and it got stuck. The top is almost closed, but for a crack I can see through, it lets wind through obviously. Error on dash says "Convertible top not latched." Rear side windows are stuck open, and top doesn't respond to open or close button commands. I even tried putting the key in the door and turning it to see if it responds, no luck. Brought it to dealer, and they said it's not the computer's commands just being out of synch, needs to be left there for diagnostic.

Any ideas what the issue could be?

-Checked all around for fluid, thankfully I see none, and fluid in the trunk tank seems like it's at the right level.
-Also checked for the fuses in the trunk, seem to be operational.

 

Did the latch come up to catch the top? If not have you tried latching it manually?

 

to be honest I'm not sure, I wasn't looking, and now the top is blocking it so I can't see. How can I latch it manually?

 

There is a little plug just to the right of center at the top near your mirror. Get in the trunk and take out the panel on the right side. There is your pump...it should have a 8mm allen wrench in brackets. Get the wrench...open up the valve on the pump...take the plug out and the insert the allen wrench. Turn to lock down your top. The instructions are in your owners manual.

 

I just checked and if you don't have the manual you can view it at Jaguars.com. They have one for 2000 xk8. The instructions are the same for the 98

 

See if this helps http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairH...lOperation.htm

 

Thanks for the help so far...

So dealership tells me the reason for the failure is because the hydraulic fluid inside the lines have "gelled up" and solidified. 4 hours of labor plus fluid and tax equals $615 to purge / flush out the lines and put in new fluid. How does this sound?

 

I have a lot of information on my page and on this FAQ about the roof operation and the many malfunctions that take place with this roof operation. First take a moment to read this http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairHydHose.htm The old fluid has been said to jell but I have not seen it so for me to say it is not true is not possible. The hyd system is equipped with several orifices and they claim they clog. Go to my page and read what I have available. I spent several pulling this information together to help people like you. Please let me know if you have additional questions. If you need to close the windows go to this page http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairH...lOperation.htm

PS You could change the fluid for far less than $615.

 

To pay that much, you might as well double it and get the entire hydraulic line replaced...otherwise, you're only putting a bandaid on a festering wound.

I've never seen or heard of the fluid turning to gel, though it may be a little thicker than say new stuff. That just puts additional stress on the pump, lines and rams as it moves thru the system. My money is on the pressure caused a leak somewhere (the top ram perhaps, since you haven't been bathed in the green soup de latch?)

 

How many hours of labor do you think a dealer would ask to do that job? Are there better quality lines to ask for when doing a replacement?

When I was researching the car, I saw online about the problems the top is prone to, and bought the pressure regulator for sale mentioned all over. That was installed a while back.

 

Well ExKay, you may have just prolonged the life of your system by doing so. The labor is quite a task, if you read the poll on the top failures, some of the members paid over $1000 to do it.

If you're willing to take a weekend to do it yourself, there is a DIY thread with pics in a link in our FAQ. I think he paid couple hundred in parts or so. I would just hate for you to pay $600 for a fluid change when you could do that yourself in the line project. If it is truly 'gelled', you can't flush it, what if there's pieces in the latch, in valves or fittings.

Man, now I really don't know what advice to give. Get another opinion? Do you have a indy jag specialist that can price the fluid change?

Since you did add the LSI pressure reducer, maybe your system just needs a bit more pressure than the valve is set at by default. It is adjustable. I'd try that first.

 

Exkay 8
Have you tried closing it manually yet with the Allen wrench? I had the same thing happen to me the other night when Im was cleaning my head liner. I had to release the pressure with the valve on the pump in the trunk and it took a minute or two for the pressure to release before I could manually lock the top down with the Allen wrench. Once it was locked down I closed the relief valve and all was back to normal.
Doug
2001 XKR Silverstone

 

In order for the dealership to install a hose they will charge $1500. +/- a few. The time necessary to do the job is about 8hrs +/- a few. It is good to know that you installed the control valve and because of that I am not sure if you had the fluid replaced then or it needs to be replaced. Your system could have the old fluid and with the orifices in the system it could run slow. I would replaces the fluid first and see what takes place if you have no evidence of a leak. The procedure is simple and spelled out on my page.
Not sure if your system is stuck but what you need to do is close the roof manually and lock the header latch and get your windows closed and that procedure is on my page. After you get everything closed I would begin replacing the fluid.

 

RCSign... I didn't try doing it manually because it was already at the dealership before I got that suggestion.

Gus... I didn't change the fluid, but the fluid level was low before I added the regulator, so when adding the regulator, I had the mechanic add the hydraulic fluid.. it took almost 3/4 of a can to get it to the right level. I did check to see if the fluid was running low when it got stuck, and it was still within the two lines.

At this point, I'm thoroughly confused. I don't know what to do. I don't have any independent jag mechanics that I know offhand. I went out of my way to this dealership because the one closer to me didn't do the right thing by me on another problem I had.

I'm not sure if I should trust this dealer, I got the price down to $550 including tax to clean out the lines. I'm not sure if I should just pay the diagnostic fee and take it away and bring it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion, I don't really have many options.

 

Not knowing how handy you are with tools but this is not a big project if you do it yourself. My procedure is the same as Jags with the exception of removing the pump that I leave in place and the option of purging the hoses that is easily done by simply operating the system and empty and refill again. This is up to you. Remember this car can and will intimidate until you come to the realization it is a car and with a strong desire and a few tools you can do it.

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I caved in and let the dealer "de-gel" the lines. It's working fine so far since I've gotten it back. I do notice a faint... excuse the expression... farting noise before the top is opened. Is this normal? What could this be? Also if anyone knows of a good reputable Jaguar mechanic in Long Island, NY, I'd appreciate the heads up.

 

The popping noise you are hearing are the two rams releasing the roof mechanism. When the roof is closed pressure is applied to the rams to close and lock the roof into position, when you open the roof both rams must unlatch the roof lock in order for it to open and that is the noise you are hearing. I hope this helps.

 

I was having the same problem, where the convertible would not latch after being open. Error saying convertible not latched. Be sure you also check the latch on the windshield. I don't know how, but the physical latch, (on the windshield) had gone down before the convertible's latch engaged causing the convertible top to sit on top of the windshields latch. I physically lifted the convertible about 3" away from the windshields latch and they all popped into each other as they should. Proper operation restored.