The convertible top on my 97 XK8 will not lower or raise automatically. It had some water in the trunk (boot) at one time, and the SLCM had some corrosion in it as a result. After installing an SLCM from a donor car, the rear quarter windows will now raise and lower, and other SLCM controlled functions were restored. Year model and VCATS # match. All the other connections in the boot are bright and dry.
All related fuses are good and powered, I have swapped relays proven to work with the top UP/DOWN relays with no improvement.
The pump will run in both directions when jumpered to the battery.
I get the warning chime when depressing the top UP/DOWN button, but no error messages on the cluster display. Quarter windows raise and lower.
I have manually operated the top with the ignition ON in an attempt to restore the logic. Drained the pump and refilled with CHF 11S. The battery is new and fully charged. I get no DTC’s when scanning for codes. Current conditions are:

With top raised and latched with the Allen key:
At the SLCM:
12v+ BT40-6
No ground at BT41-3
Ground at BT40-13 and -14
Continuity from BT40-4 and -9 to the connector at the pump control valves
Continuity from BT40-3 and -10 to the top UP/Down relay socket #1
12v+ to the top UP/Down relay socket #5 from battery inputs 66 and 67

At the BPM:
12v+ at FC14-80
Ground at FC14-10 with switch in UP position
Ground at FC14-63 with switch in DOWN position
Ground at FC14-89, 62, 36, 103 and 65

If I am interpreting the diagram correctly, the above results are correct. My vehicle sat with a low/dead battery for at least 2 months before I purchased it, and no telling how long the donor car’s battery has been dead.
I’m thinking my next step is to take it to the shop to get the programming of the various modules renewed and run a diagnostic test.

Anyone have anything else to suggest before I take in?
Thanks.

 

I would remove the pump relays covers and verify operation and power to the load side. The cover will easily come off with a small screwdriver or knife and a toothpick.

That will tell you which direction to look. Divide and conquer.

Careful removing the connectors on the pump should you decide you need to. The previous owner of my first car destroyed the pump by pulling one of the connectors completely off.

 

Like I said in my PM to you I had to read and re-read your problem. Not ever having a reason to check the sequence of operation with a meter and system one line I am unable to answer your direct questions. However, I will do my best and we will work it out together.

The sequence of open the roof can be performed from both the button and the door key. This total operation is controlled by the Body Processor Module and the Security & Locking Module. The modules being the first step the second are the windows. Once the windows are open the pump is turned on resulting in the latch opening and then the opening of the roof and then the latch tucking itself away.

If I were you I would be looking at why the windows are not going down first since the roof will not operate until the windows are open and satisfy the computer. I am attaching Jaguars http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...s/501-11am.pdf and it will give you the sequential operation of the roof switches. You can also check my page for additional information on the roof.

Please tell us what you found or not found for others to benefit.

 

What is the status of your roof? Is it closed or open? Are the quarter windows open or closed? And do you have any faults? Also have you attempted to open/close the roof using the key? I hate to ask this question do you have any leaks and is the tank full?

 

In review of the oneline and what you are saying you got at the plugs appears to be correct. But you need to be looking at the window operation and why they are not opening. I hope the TSB I provided will help.

 

The quarter windows do raise and lower, whether using the console switch or the key in the door, but that's all the automatic operation there is. The top is currently raised and latched, with the lift rams in the full extended position. No leaks, and I drained the pump and refilled with CHF 11S. I will double check the relays and the solenoids on the pump (carefully!!).

 

Push the button to lower the roof when the ¼ windows are open and nothing further takes place, take your allen wrench and unlatch the roof latch. Now push the lower button again and see if the roof goes down.

 

Good suggestion. With the quarter windows down, I manually unlatched the top. The "top down" relay now closes and sends power to the pump! But alas, the pump does not run. The ground circuit checks out, and resistance in the wire from the relay socket to the pump is less than .5 ohm. What's odd is that if I remove the relay and jumper from #3 to #5 in the relay socket, the pump still does not run, so I am confident that relays are not the issue. Nor does the pump run if I jumper straight from the battery to #3. This makes me suspicious of the wires that run from the relays to the pump itself; I'll trace those next. Thanks for the input.

 

I would suspect a failed ground, finding it is going to be a real task. If you do not have onelines with the grounding points look on my page also the TSB with switch information i provided should help. Please let us know what you find.

 

The windows will not go up until the roof is locked and the roof rams are extended. You will need to latch the roof manually then electrically close the roof by key or switch. Once the roof is satisfied the windows will close.

 

Gus, you're a genius !!! The top now goes up and down with either the switch or the key!!! Thanks to you and Test Point for your many helpful suggestions. In summary, here is how it went:
I replaced the wires that run from the top UP and top DOWN relays to the pump. I could then get the pump to run through the new wires when powered from the battery. It was then I noticed that if I jiggled the wires that go into the pump while it was running, it would stop and start. Hmmmm.... More than one cause to my troubles. I removed the motor from the pump housing, removed the motor cover and pressed the rotor out of the end cap. It was then I discovered that the black wire had unsoldered from the board that connects all the brushes to the power leads. It was completely unsoldered and out of the board, and no doubt causing an intermittent malfunction unitl it became completely disconnected, probably as a result of my moving wires around to check circuits. So, I soldered the wire back in place and added extra solder to the other connections, put it all back together, popped in the relays and hit the button. Went through 2 cycles without a hitch!!! It's 35 degrees F here in Texas today, but it will be 70 F tomorrow so I will have a chance to put the system through its paces a few more times with the engine running. Gus and Test Point, thanks again for responding to my post, you saved the day !!!