Correct Ground Clearance for Convertible?
#1
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Blenheim, Ontario,Canada
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Correct Ground Clearance for Convertible?
This post is designed to draw opinions on acceptable ride height:
Measuring from ground to the top of the wheel wells I get 27 inches at the front and 28 1/4 inches at the rear
Measuring from ground to the support bar for the radiator I get 5 1/4 inches clearance
The original tire specs called for 235/55/ZR17
Mine are 245/50/ZR17
A search from the web indicated that the installed tires are slightly higher in profile - giving a 2% error in the speedometer reading (everything being accurate there)
Front tire pressure is 28 pounds / rear tires are at 30 pounds
I had to adjust the headlight assemblies to their maximum in order to get adequate low beam lighting of the roadway.
The owner's documentation claims correct clearance is 6.4 inches.
So I can conclude that the front assemblies are low - leading to the rubber assemblies at the top of the struts have shrunk (observation leans to them being OK ) or that the springs have become tired
The car has low enough mileage (43000) to suggest that the suspension has not been abused.
When driving, the car corners flat, even when put under some stress. Driving on flat highway is extremely pleasant. If the pavement is cracked or not level any imperfection is noted somewhat harshly. The shocks are not leaking and have not gone "soft" i.e. no wheel bounce. We also own a 2012 Ford F150 (two wheel drive) and a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe - the ride with about the same harshness.
What started this situation was a near miss with a large watermelon, left in the center of the highway. I came upon it around a curve, but courtesy of good engineering, avoided the thing. This set me back down the what if ?
path of damaged front grill / radiator / air bag deployment, etc. We live in a rural setting and have seen lots of wooden and metal road hazards, but killer fruit is a new twist.
I have consulted youtube, discovering that replacement of the top strut assemblies is far more annoying than replacing entire strut assemblies.
So here are the questions - 1. Should the car have a slight rake, with the rear somewhat higher? 2. What is an acceptable ride height - given that working on the suspension will probably lead to replacement
of bushings? 3. Is the harsh ride typical?
I'd appreciate any comment.
Measuring from ground to the top of the wheel wells I get 27 inches at the front and 28 1/4 inches at the rear
Measuring from ground to the support bar for the radiator I get 5 1/4 inches clearance
The original tire specs called for 235/55/ZR17
Mine are 245/50/ZR17
A search from the web indicated that the installed tires are slightly higher in profile - giving a 2% error in the speedometer reading (everything being accurate there)
Front tire pressure is 28 pounds / rear tires are at 30 pounds
I had to adjust the headlight assemblies to their maximum in order to get adequate low beam lighting of the roadway.
The owner's documentation claims correct clearance is 6.4 inches.
So I can conclude that the front assemblies are low - leading to the rubber assemblies at the top of the struts have shrunk (observation leans to them being OK ) or that the springs have become tired
The car has low enough mileage (43000) to suggest that the suspension has not been abused.
When driving, the car corners flat, even when put under some stress. Driving on flat highway is extremely pleasant. If the pavement is cracked or not level any imperfection is noted somewhat harshly. The shocks are not leaking and have not gone "soft" i.e. no wheel bounce. We also own a 2012 Ford F150 (two wheel drive) and a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe - the ride with about the same harshness.
What started this situation was a near miss with a large watermelon, left in the center of the highway. I came upon it around a curve, but courtesy of good engineering, avoided the thing. This set me back down the what if ?
path of damaged front grill / radiator / air bag deployment, etc. We live in a rural setting and have seen lots of wooden and metal road hazards, but killer fruit is a new twist.
I have consulted youtube, discovering that replacement of the top strut assemblies is far more annoying than replacing entire strut assemblies.
So here are the questions - 1. Should the car have a slight rake, with the rear somewhat higher? 2. What is an acceptable ride height - given that working on the suspension will probably lead to replacement
of bushings? 3. Is the harsh ride typical?
I'd appreciate any comment.
#2
Join Date: Apr 2014
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#5
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
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Johnken (10-31-2019)
#6
it cannot be good for the car to hit speed humps at speed. i was referring to road patches and other transitions and the generally crummy way that road paving has evolved. the authorities cannot seem to get a new paving job smooth anymore. perhaps all of the old timers have retired.
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crbass (10-31-2019)
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