I inherited a 2000 xk8. The top was stuck up, so i unlatched it with the allen key and operated it a few times. Now it seems to work. But with the top down. the latch still sticks straight up from the windshield. I assume it is supposed to fold back down? Looks silly. Any suggestions? Thanks, ed

 

Yes it should be down.

Since I just fixed a switch issue that could do this, let me ask. Does using the key in driver's door have same issue?

Oh yes, inherited. . . You may not eben realize key in driver's door, north America, turn key fully clockwise hold. Alarm deactivates if active.. Windows close, roof closes, latch closes. If roof is open, turn key counter clockwise reverse occurs. Either way entirecprocess takes less than 20 seconds.

If no, I'll explain. If yes, lets see what the experts say.

John

 

No expert here but,,,,

What I've noticed is that the center latch will stay UP looking as of its ready to receive the hood/top until the top is FULLY in it opened position... There are switches in the rams that report to the system when this happens. Sounds like either the switch is malfunctioning OR there is something impeding the tops full OPEN travel....?

Are you getting a message saying "top not xxxx" on the dash at ANY point in it's operation?

Try, with car running, with the top in the "as open as it will go" position, and give a gentle but sharp shove down on the top folds of the tops frame assembly. That place just over the drivers LH and passengers RH shoulder (US car) where all the framing 'gathers' when the top is FULLY open. If that makes any sense? Just shove down and see if that hook retracts down.

Also, check to see if there is anything in the area behind the rear seat back,,, in the cavity that receives the top framing,,, dash that is stopping the top from nestling all the way down in there. Could be that simple.

I need to find an image of the RAMS (the hydrolics) to see which end that electrical switch (built into the RAMS) is on. Strange thing is,,, I seem to remember it being at the TOP of the passenger side RAM - engaged when the top is full UP.

As John says,,, let's see what others think and have to say...

There are also micro switches in the area of that hooked latch BUT I thought they reported when the latch is retracted,,, not extended - I could be way wrong on that. Fixing the micro switches is well documented and not tooooo difficult - from what I hear...

 

Sorry I haven't responded. Got cold and snowy around here right after I posted. Thanks for the suggestions, I will try them and get back. Another thing is I noticed the hydraulic system has a leak above the dome light and the reservoir is half empty. I can also hear the pump running for several seconds after I turn off and get out of the car, is that normal? Also any guidance or links to top off the reservoir would be appreciated. TIA

 

Sounds like you have the dreaded green shower - search for green shower and you will find many who have dealt with this - usually the black coating will deteriorate over time and flake off such that the pressure changes will cause the hose to eject from the coupling leading to the leak. I would remove the carpet panel in the trunk around the cd changer and look at the hoses to the pump - if the black is flaking off, then replace all the hoses - either use Cabriolet Hydraulics out of Florida or Top Hydraylics - both use higher rated hoses than OEM and much lower cost. As for hydraulic fluid - Pentosin CHS-11S and there is a cap on top of the pump reservoir you remove to fill - just be careful not to damage the solenoids on the pump!!!

 

I've never had a leak in the area of the dome light so I don't know - might be the cause of the strange behavior of pump running trying to close the latch (which you mentioned remaining open) but not being able due to not being able to achieve enough pressure...?

Did you ever solve the issues mentioned in the first post?