The assembly order is crank, damper, collet (narrow end in), bolt. The damper is positioned by a shoulder on the crank and the tapered collet is supposed to lock this all together. There is no sealing ring in the damper assembly. We aren't sure what that is about but the crank parts diagram pays no respect to the actual assembly order. A sealing ring would be a problem given the high torque required on the bolt. In the oil seal replacement sequence there is no mention of a sealing ring.

The collet in use is a new part. The original collet is severely damaged from the damper turning on it and making lots of heat.

The bolt flange was ground down because it was bottoming on the damper, which prevents it from compressing the collet. Once this was done the collet bottoms on the crank shaft shoulder. The real problem is that the damper hub (which is tapered to match the collet) has been eroded. When the damper is replaced I will get a new collet and bolt to finish the deal.

The crank end has not been affected because the collet has not moved as it is held by a major amount of torque on the bolt. The movement is between the damper and the collet. The mechanic is using his jack handle as an extension to break the bolt loose. There is no way the collet is moving.

 

This sojorn is hopefuly over. I acquired a new damper pulley thanks to Andre Vos. This only took 15 days by mail from Belgium, which is my cheapskate fault for not using UPS.

The new damper, bolt and split collet are installed and so far running well. The car suddenly has the old power back as the slipping Damper/pulley was slowing the supercharger. There was some rubbing of the crank end but it was symmetrical and the new parts seem to be securely clamped in place.

I have attached a photo of the new parts to help explain what they are. You can probably see the taper in the damper/pulley hub which matches the split collet that is sitting on the bolt in the photo. In the failed part the tapered hub is where the most damage occured as this is not hardened steel. The split collet is hardened ans is burned but not obviously eroded.

I have the old parts here and not sure what the mechanic was thinking with his efforts to salvage the damper. The good news is he didn't charge much. The old damper hub is all chewed up and there is no way it would ever align properly. It is clear that the parts began turning against each other at some point and this accelerated over time until it all came unglued. The cause of this will remain unknown but it seems likely that it was not properly torqued and I assume this happened on a previous repair, possibly to replace the front crank seal. I think it is safe to say that this failure requires replacement of all three parts and make sure the torque is right.

This thread started with me trying to find a way to get the highly torqued bolt removed. This mechanic used the flywheel approach is conjuction with a long cheater on a breaker bar and socket.

 

Glad you got er whipped. This has been some story.

 

I am having that same issue.
I am not sure if my crank is damaged. It looks uniform, with a diameter of 35.8mm.
I am going to machine a thicker collet in steel, as it appears some of the material in the pulley/damper has been worn off.

Can anyone cast some light on the O-ring shown in the assembly diagram?

also is anyone knows the diameter of the crank, it would be nice to know.

Thanks

 

SRT, friend, not sure what you are asking or what problem you have (said you have same problem)?

I had to replace my pulley once, opened the thread based on title to see if I can help, but there are 3 pages of comments that cover four years.

You may get better faster help if you launch a new thread with clear details to support your request.

You will be fortunate to find someone who will read through 3 pages of notes and is able to pinpoint your issue.

Hope it helps.
John

 

If the pulley is worn it should be replaced, trying to secure a worn pulley to a worn crank is going to be a challenge.
The lamination in the pulleys has also been known to deteriorate.

 

That is undoubtedly the right answer, it just will not work with me, because the shaft is most likely also worn. That means I would have to replace the crank as well.

It is worn uniformly (still round) and I am sure that if I get a another collet with more meat, then in principle I will be back to square one.

This together with proper torque and maybe Loctite or whatever other options there might be, must do the job.

Fitting standard of the shelf items will not do the work, and I am not in the mood to replace the crank.

See this for the full story:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ned-sr-184020/

 

I understood the crank was worn but i didn't suggest replacing it did I?

 

No you didn't. But it is clear that if the dimensions on the parts to be fitted are not correct, then it will not work.
So a new pulley and collet with correct dimensions will not help, if the shaft is undersized.
The collet will just close on the split and not be able to compress enough to grab the shaft.
Your solution thus requires all components involved to be replaced. The most costly and most difficult of which is the carnk.

That!, is what I am trying to avoid!

 

Just to be clear what I had in mind was a new pulley as yours is damaged and the custom made collet you were going to make anyway, trying to match a worn tapered bore to a new collet will be like farting against thunder IMHO.

 

Well, I will most certainly give it a go.
I seldom encounter a problem I cannot solve with determination and effort.