Greetings everyone,

I just happened to have this problem, suddenly, where the driver's door is totally deadlocked, and its window is also stuck in the open down position.
Battery is correct, fuses on the passenger's box are ok as well as the locking system* and window on that passenger side.
I have tested with 2 FOB's and with the key: driver's door wont unlock, and its window wont go up. I hear clicks when using the window controls, and that's it. The internal handle is stuck in the lock position.

*A mechanic that works nearby came by and checked the passenger's lock system, "messing" a bit with the latch of that door to "see how it works", but now that door locking system is not working as before he moved the latch manually: The motor that used to move the internal "handle" ain't making that handle move anymore, not even with FOB, it wont move, it just locks/unlocks when being moved manually by hand.

Anyways. back to the main issue... I have managed to remove the driver's door card (only broke the 3 pins inside the "dash zone"), but since the window is down there, I have not much space at all to "mess around". I also see that "black casing" where all that latch mechanism is, but haven't been able to do anything there since all seems covered, plus that "anti theft" metal part. Thanks to one post here at this forum ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-open-175483/ ), I have managed to understand a bit and do all what I have done until now.

My plan is to try to lift the window up and see if I can manage to see more in that area and eventually pop the lock actuator upwards, like in that XJ video, but all I see for now is a "black plastic case". I also read about giving 12V to the actuator and see if it unlocks.

I dont have a clue whats going on in there, and how to lift the window up at all (battery disconnected of course!).
I'm trying to do this all DIY, as taking the car to the dealership is 120€ per hour and I could save a lot of cash...

 

Ok. You got door to swing open.
Pulled off door card.

You really have to disconnect the battery before sticking your hand in there (you like your fingers right?)

First thing I'd do is make sure the wire harness into the driver's door is securely connected. Look for harness at front of door when open. Maybe try making breaking (disconnect reconnect sorry) the connection.

Nothing?

Disconnect positive cable on battery. Touch the positive cable end to negative. Hold for 25 seconds. Reconnect securely.

Still no progress?

Ok. A few facts please:
Does puddle light work? Yes=12volts into door.
Key in door. Left hand drive car. Turn key counter clockwise all the way. Any alam beeps? If door is open = long fault beep. Windows close?

Key clockwise- unlock? Windows drop?

Yes I know friend did this, just asking for 1st person feedback.

Now let's move to door window.
Battery disconnected
Center area of door, look for short cable coming out of motor. Find connector a few inches away. Disconnect here, apply 12volts to move window.

Connection blocked by window? Let's detach window from regulator to get access.

Look at bottom of window. See silver metal attachment? See channel in that metal? See the 2 arms riding in the channel?

The metal arms slip into the white plastic slider in the channel. They are held in place each by 1 cotter pin. The pin slides out with some force applied.

2 things: its a scary amount of force, that's normal.
That pin wants to fly away, figure / plan a way to prevent that. Even if it falls inside the door, its harder to find than you imagine.

Look I'm going to step away for a moment and find the link to my how to replace window regulator, then put a link in here. Those instructions are a year or two old, will be more accurate. Stand by

1 of 2 links
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ight=Regulator

Great photos / info from Race Diagnostics
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ight=Regulator

This is more important, but yes we have written up how to fix the broken door card "fir trees" you mentioned. Ask when ready.

I hope its just a loose connection!

John

 

I had a problem with my door intermittently going dead and it was the connection in the door jamb where the wiring comes out of the car into the door, I unscrewed it and cleaned the connector and put it back and it's been perfect since. Worth a quick try for sure.

 

^^ Where does that wiring harness unscrew for cleaning?

 

Sorry, maybe I didn't explain myself properly:
The door remains closed and I haven't been able to open it yet, so I have been the whole afternoon inside the car getting my hands scratched inside the door

Since the window is down there, I'm not able to clean/reconnect the latch mechanism connector.
So I guess I must pull that window up, whatever it takes to do it.
I have pulled up with all my force the glass part only, but it seems like "glued" to the metal rail and so, it hasn't moved up.
The glass moves just a tiny bit when pulling from the right side, but totally stuck from the left side.

Aside from all that, I happened to find a "piece of something" laying at the bottom of the door:

 

Disconnect arms from window channel. Watch that cotter pin, it wants to fly away. Ez to then pull up window. Hold in place with pipe clamp rubber jaws.

John

 

As I recall that part sits on rear vertical window support to keep it from flapping around.
Mine fell off too, never reinstalled never noticed.

John

 

Yes! I just opened the door after a lot of messing around. It was quite tricky to remove the locking mechanism assembly cover screw, and then used some force to get the boss loose and be able to remove the cover. Then by just pushing something near the actuator, I heard that great "unlocked sound".

By the way, I removed the door card while the door was closed, as a hint if someone else has this problem in the future. I removed all the clips except those unreachable (at the edge where the dashboard), and then pulled up with force many times until the remaining pins broke.

That was 1/3 of the job. Now the deal is to find out what's wrong there.
All I've seen for now is that the latch mechanism is quite "sticky", it's hard to move it by hand, like, it may all be so dirty and gummed that the latch wont open when required.

After having a quick look, the actuator seems to be stuck down and not moving.
While the passenger's side actuator "sucks" some power from the battery (interior lights shine less brighter for a pair of seconds), the driver's door actuator has no effect. I can hear a relay clicking as well on both doors.

 

On the body jamb near the door hinges:

 

Well, I have opened the door lock actuator and seems like the motor ain't working. I applied 9v from a battery to it and it didn't move nor make any noise at all. So I'm wondering if the problem is in the motor, as strange as it seems to me.
Here are some pictures of the motor and its switch. Anyone knows what's the switch for?






Aside from that, I don't know how to fit this spring and its function here inside the actuator:

 

Well, I managed to mount the actuator back in place, after finally making sure that everything works fine, including the electric motor.

I fitted the driver's door locking latch mechanism and, everything was working fine (both doors were locking and unlocking by their own actuators, by internal handle and FOB. Also windows are working, driver's with no glass: motor pulls properly) until... after EXACTLY 5 cycles of locking and unlocking, the driver's door actuator stops working (no noise or anything), and so does the passenger's door as well.
After EXACTLY 6 cycles of locking and unlocking (interior handle), it starts working again on both doors. And then again same deal again forever

So I went ahead and opened the passenger's door card, and removed the door control module.
I swapped both doors control modules, and then after connecting up the battery again, none of the doors actuators move or anything...
I unplugged the battery and swapped the DCM's back to their own original door, and nothing... Actuators wont move on both doors. Did a reset and system is working again but, with the same 5 times cycle OK, 6 times cycle FAIL.

So I'm kinda lost on what to do or what's going on.

Battery is fine and had it charging during the day.

I heard about a security module under the boot fuse box and I just disconnected it and opened it. It looks like brand new, nothing apparently fried or in bad shape.

Any ideas to solve the issue?

By the way, maybe I found the driver's window problem: one out of the two white plastic pieces at the rail has the top broken. I will try to source them or maybe print them with a 3D printer.

 

Is that black round pod looking component connected across the motor leads? At first I was thinking it looked like a thermistor, but that doesn’t make much sense if it’s a across the leads, so I’m wondering if it’s a capacitor that is heating up and causing a fault.

I’m looking at the pictures on my iPhone and I really can’t get a good visual of the different parts of the motor assembly to try to figure out what everything is. Is that round metal button looking thing on the blue plastic assembly a limit switch?

What is the blue plastic assembly for? Are those contacts (like in a relay) going into the motor? can any of those contacts looking parts that I see on the connections between the blue plastic assembly and the motor open and close ? What mechanism would do that? There must be a solenoid somewhere. That might be how they dead lock the door? They open those contacts so there’s no power going to the motor maybe?

I wouldn’t be swapping door modules because they could be configured for the door theyre in and when you swap them who knows what gets written to them or the ecu

i’ll try to help as best I can. I Like to try to figure out how crap works. but I would think that the fact that it doesn’t work after five cycles is potentially an overheating condition. You might want to give it half an hour or an hour to cool down to see if it will start working again, if it does, then you know that you’ve heated something up which is either opening a resettable fuse or causing a fault in a component that cools and corrects itself. If it is heating up and then not working but then cooling and working, is it designed into the circuit to work like that or do you have a faulty part that just happens to be healing itself over time ?

 

That black round pod looking component seems like a capacitor or resistor, I don't really know.
And yes, after testing the actuator, that round plastic button is indeed a limit switch.
That blue plastic assembly is where the limit switch is at, and the upper and lower connectors go into the motor.
I have no clue how the "dead lock" mechanism works at all, maybe it removes the power to the actuator so no one can open the door from the inside handle.

I was wondering about an overheating issue at first too, and maybe the relays behind the glove box, but I may really sound silly on this, because I found out the issue, and I think I have been the "gremlin" myself all the time

The deal is that, after wondering about the problem (and 7 days working on the car), I thought that it didn't make sense to have the door actuator working for exactly 5 cycles of lock/unlock (tested from both doors), and then fail for "6" cycles.
So I thought.... why not try to make 4 lock/unlock cycles, and wait for... say 30 seconds.... and voila... Everything is working perfect. I believe the "system" has a limit of "consecutive cycles", to prevent discharging the battery in case of a problem with the locking system, so that after 5 consecutive cycles, it disables the actuators for half a minute or something...
It behaves the same way as when I couldn't open the driver's door, and the passenger door was cycling lock/unlock for a few times, and then it stopped or "gave up" when the system detected that the driver's door wasn't getting unlocked/locked.
So I was doing these lock/unlock cycles in a consecutive way, so always, after 5 cycles, the system stopped working on purpose, and I thought that there was an issue yet to be solved.
After doing for example 4 cycles, and waiting for like 30 seconds, I could do the lock/unlock cycles again for another 5 times.
Always a max of 5 consecutive cycles. Normal operation won't need that many lock/unlock cycles, so I guess that's all.
The "6 dead cycles" were just the "time" it took for the system to enable the actuators again.

Somehow the driver's windows was stuck as well because of the locking actuator not moving and having the door in "deadlock position". I will mount everything back and see if the window works (it works without the glass, so I guess I'll be fine).

So after all, after cleaning all the contacts and connectors everywhere, it seems my problem was a lack of lubrication at the latching mechanism, change of temperature maybe as well, or whatever, but the actuator was stuck on deadlocked position and I had to manually unlock it and etc... It was quite hard to make the latching mechanism move by hand, where the actuator pushes.

Time to grease everything!

I hope this can help someone in the future if in need. Maybe now we know a bit more about the locking mechanism. At least I have learned a lot and saved a ton of money, plus the satisfaction of getting the job done.

Feel free to ask me anything or correct me if I'm wrong on my conclusions.

Thanks so much to "Johnken", and also to the inputs by "blindside" and "Aarcuda"

 

Only thing I could add is STOP DEADLOCKING THE DOORS

I actually tried to enable that in my US 06 STR but I dont have the mechanisms in the doors so I couldnt get it to function. but then I read about folks having the same problem as you so I thought how I almost set myself up for trouble luckily It was impossible but still, if I did have it, Id disable it