Dumb question about shocks
I'm going to replace my shocks and see them with and without Adaptive Control Dampening. What the heck is that and how do I find out if I have it?
Got new Bilstein shocks installed and just got the car back. Labor $550. Not sure if that's good or not. Apparently it isn't a real easy job. Major ride difference. The old shocks were obviously ready to be replaced.
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Is there a good way to tell if you need new shocks? The car doesn't keep bouncing when I push up and down on a fender. I'm going to be doing new lower suspension bushings soon, and that seems like a good a time as any to replace the shocks, but I don't want to spend the money on the shocks unless I need to.
You can spend that long just removing the top wishbone fulcrum bolt
Sounds like the labor price I got was fair based on the hours needed to do the job. As far as Reverend Sam's question, I just thought the ride was getting a little soft and with 75k on the odometer, I figured it was about time. The ride difference with the new Bilsteins convinced me I was right.
...and I'm at 116k on the originals...it won't hurt since I've got my lower arms off during the project.
Like you Sam, my front doesn't 'bounce' either when giving the push-down test in the garage. What convinced me take the shocks into consideration...I had my car up to inspect the bushings and sway bar and track down that power steering fluid leak (going to be fixed next week!) and when I put the floor jack under the front bumper to reach the center of the cross member, it rubbed the lower valence on travel. After 30 minutes up in the air, I brought the car down and the jack had an inch of clearance. Scratchin my head, I thought that the longer the car sits on those springs and shocks, the car drops lower. If for whatever reason (age) my internal valves on my shocks are not holding the correct fluid pressures, this will also transfer to my ride quality when driving. My decision was made right then to make the change.
Like you Sam, my front doesn't 'bounce' either when giving the push-down test in the garage. What convinced me take the shocks into consideration...I had my car up to inspect the bushings and sway bar and track down that power steering fluid leak (going to be fixed next week!) and when I put the floor jack under the front bumper to reach the center of the cross member, it rubbed the lower valence on travel. After 30 minutes up in the air, I brought the car down and the jack had an inch of clearance. Scratchin my head, I thought that the longer the car sits on those springs and shocks, the car drops lower. If for whatever reason (age) my internal valves on my shocks are not holding the correct fluid pressures, this will also transfer to my ride quality when driving. My decision was made right then to make the change.
guidance needed please! Big thanks!
almost the same price as the OEM. I just replaced last month the front shocks for the same price $100each (OEM dealer)but forgot to change to bushes and the mount so i have to do the front again together with the new ones at the rear.
yup, on the front, the upper mounts should always be checked...most dry out and fall apart, hindering the ride quality. Front gives me the most grief, sway bar bushings, and those dang control arm bushings...in the rear, I've had no other problems besides a lower shock bushing, but I think those failures are uncommon.
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