hi guys, my 2005 xk8 with only 41k displayed cruise not available, transmission fault today.....the car seems to go to limp home mode....the transmission wont go to 4th gear.....the abs light was also on.....i thought it was caused by the wheel speed sensor being dirty....so i stopped by the nearest autozone and buy brake cleaner to clean the front wheel sensors......after that the car was fine for another 45 minutes of driving 85 miles in sport mode...then the warning sign (cruise not available, transmission fault) was on again the thing is I'm from Oregon but i'm on vacation in los angeles (santa monica area)

so needless to say i'm quite freakiń out now....im thinkin taking it to exclusive motors in pico by 405... however i fear that this is not a simple fix and the car needs a few days...... do u guys think i can baby this 1200 miles to oregon in two days? the car ran fine when the warniń sign is not on.... shifts fine everything is perfect.....ideas?

 

Probably need at least to read ABS codes. Jag dealer-type tool needed.

 

"Cruise not available" comes up for a faulty brake switch. There are lots of posts about it, but the short version is that it is made of 2 switches that work opposite to one another (normally closed vs. normally open). The computer checks that they are in opposite state, and throws a message when they are not. This is not terribly expensive, but somewhat of a pain to replace because it is in a blind tight space besides the brake pedal. Advance has it listed under cruise control switch.

You asked for ideas, so here is one. As pointed out before, reading the codes is always good, and make sure the basics like a strong battery are not neglected. Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

zidjan,
If you can "limp" to the San Fernando Valley, I can have my mechanic read your codes and do the repair. He works on all of my cars (about 12) including my 3 Jags. PM me is you need some help.
Ted

 

Hi guys, thanks for the ideas... I just took my car to exclusive motors in pico....George services a lot of jags and rovers...he pulled some codes...
And also he noticed some wetness...on the tranny...he said the connector from engine to tranny....may need to be replaced...the sensor wire might be wet causing the issues I'm having....and the car must have nevwr done the fluid and filter change which is already in my planned service after summer....so that's what he is doing in the car as we speak now.....hopefully that'll fix it.

codes..

 

I've seen that before.
it happened because the plug for the transmission was not fully inserted in the sleeve. Try taking off and clean dry and re-plug.

 

Well guys $915 later (tranny fluid and filter, rear wheel sensor and at plug and 50 miles later of hard driving seems to fix the problem......I'll report back when I reach Oregon ....the other thing the mechanic told me is that theres slow leak on the thermostat housing.....ia this a serious thing or I can defer this for a few months? Keep checking the coolant?

 

Change out the housing to a metal one. It is easy to do an not expensive. Grab a 8mm crows foot socket for the two rear bolts as they are a pita. Better to have it done now because if the original housing splits you will not go far.

 

do u know if there's an instruction out there? videos?

 

My understanding is that there is no metal part for the 4.2 engine. Fortunately, the plastic part from Jaguar is inexpensive (~$100), considering it is the thermostat, sensor, and all gaskets, in addition to all the hard plastic pipes. I changed mine a couple of weeks back, under the pretense that 13-year-old plastic was bound to be problematic. Good opportunity to change out the coolant (DEXCOOL), if older than 5 years, too. Also, check the radiator hoses, mine was collapsing and ballooning out every heat cycle. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

Bummer! .... is it the same procedure between 4.0 and 4.2? Also the oem coolant(orange) are ridiculously expensive. ... I wonder what will be a good subtitute for it?

 

Replace the entire coolant outlet duct assembly. That includes the thermostat assembly and a new thermostat. The entire part is black plastic and tends to weaken and warp with heat cycles and age. By also removing the metal manifold front plate, you will gain much better access to the two rear Torx-30 bolts on the bypass-to-water pump plastic part of the coolant outlet duct that everyone struggles with. Use a quarter-inch socket drive to get to those two rear bolts. It will be thin enough to get in there and do the job once you remove the metal manifold front plate. Be sure to replace the manifold front seal gasket with a new one before you put the plate back on after you have replaced the coolant outlet duct assembly. That gasket gets pretty cooked and to be safe, install a new one so there will be no leaks....

I did this job back in November 2014 because the thermostat housing had sprung a leak. My thread was called "Slight Coolant Loss...." Use that as your search term and you can read all about it....

The two parts you will need are:

- Coolant outlet duct, Jaguar part no. AJ89486. I paid about $115 plus tax.

- Manifold front seal gasket, Jaguar part no. AJ87991. I paid about $4.50 plus tax.

It is extremely important that you stay with the proper coolant. Whatever you choose must meet the required M97B44-D coolant specs. If you attempt to use a cheaper out-of-spec coolant, you run a very real risk of gelling up your cooling system and suffering catastrophic engine damage. Do the wise thing and stay with the proper coolant. DexCool meets the specs and is less than $20 per gallon at Walmart....

Good luck with your repair....

 

Not sure about the similarity with the 4.0, but this is not a difficult job. The only complication is the 2 rear bolts to the pipe that attaches to the block. They are sort of under the intake plenum, and take a bit of convincing to get out. Also, there is a thin hard plastic tube routing coolant back to the reservoir that breaks by just looking at it. I replaced it with a normal flexible hose from the parts store (less than 3 ft. was required).

Without meaning to start a big discussion on coolant types, my read is that this engine was designed to a coolant specification, which is followed by products of the DEXCOOL brand. They are available at the parts store for the normal price (I used Prestone), and under the usual concentrations (pure or already mixed with 50% water). A full flush is 10 quarts.

Prestone® DEX-COOL® Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant

 

Hi guys, turns out its no go on the tranny...it happened again this morning...after further diagnostic...turns out its the valve body...and the mechanic suggest a tranny replacement...instead of valve body rebuilt ....is he right? suggestion? The quote will be $3000 on the tranny replacement....or maybe some of u have had success with vqlve body rebuilt?

 

Anyway a little update....the mechanic did a live scan on the car seeing the data...what could be the possible issue was definitely electronical...the mechanic said that the input and output sensors was throwing weird data....he lift the wheel off the ground and engage the transmission..what was logged is that the input sensor is "0" while the output sensor was reading "440" hence he said that the tranny will need a new valve body...however I thought valve body issue would give me bad/rough shifts...in this case...once he resets/clear the codes...the car was behaving normal..and shifts like butter..I even do a hard shifts a few time...going from 0-100 and the car shifts fine until maybe about 40 minutes or so...the warning signs comes back and the car go back to limp mode ...showing "abs light" on and then "cruise not available" "transmission fault" so is it really tranny related? or could be ABS related since that's the first light that came on?

Right now I ended renting a car to go back home and I am transporting the car back on Monday...sigh so confused!

 

WARNING: I am not a tranny mechanic, nor do I play one on TV!

I agree with you, at this point, it is hard to believe it is a transmission issue. The fact that it works for a while pretty much rules out true internal mechanical problems, which means there would be no need to remove the tranny off the car.

Taking another read at your posts, the true source of the problem seems to be that rear wheel speed sensor circuit. It seems to be used as source of "input" speed into the whole ECM/TCM systems, and helps determine the next gear in the tranny logic. I could see that if the tranny code cannot reliably determine the speed of the car, it would be unhappy about it and go into limp home mode (who wants to see what engaging 1st gear at 80Mph feels like?). I could be wrong, but normally critical sensors are "monitored" circuits, just like a home alarm system, where the system can tell the difference between a sensor being "open", and an altogether open circuit (as in wires cut off). There is typically a residual resistance when the sensor is "open" to tell the system the circuit is still working. What I am getting at is that, if it was me, I would take a hard look at that wheel speed sensor circuit, from the sensor all the way to, and including the ABS/Traction Control module. I believe odd/temporary breaks in the wiring have been reported before. I would definitely start at the wheel end, where the wires are most exposed, and most subject to movement (possibly fatigue), and go from there. Also, I would check the hub ring "gear" providing the alternating pattern the sensor is picking up. Is it possibly loose, contaminated, corroded, or otherwise unable to perform its function? I would also try and collect back the old sensor, chance are there was nothing wrong with it.

This is just how I would go about this, certainly does not mean I am right. Just trying to help out. Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Thank's Fmertz, yeah..the car will arrive on Wednesday... I have searched this forum for answers and I've gotten issues from spliced wires to the hub rings like you mention..all tranny issue posted in this forum seems to be all related to hard/won't shifts...so I am really leaning towards the ABS now whatever it might and it'll be my first plan of attack.

 

Check your PM.

 

Hi Guys I match the codes from the mechanic's OBD II to Jaguar repair manual and this is what I find.

• P0701
Combination of DTC's present. Impossible substrate functions.
CLEAR ALL DTC's. TEST the system for normal operation.
• P0735
5th gear selection fault. Internal transmission gear ratio fault.
Carry out the transmission fluid check in this section. CLEAR ALL DTC's. TEST the
system for normal operation. If DTC resets, install a new Transmission. For additional information,
REFER to Transmission in this section.

• P0729
6th gear selection fault. Internal transmission gear ratio fault.
Carry out the transmission fluid check in this section. CLEAR ALL DTC's. TEST the
system for normal operation. If DTC resets, install a new Transmission. For additional information,
REFER to Transmission in this section.
• C1175 Left-hand rear wheel speed sensor (WSS) circuit failure.
o Wheel speed sensor circuit; open circuit, short circuit
o Wheel speed sensor to control module circuit; high resistance, open circuit, short circuit to GROUND
o Wheel speed sensor failure
o For left -hand rear WSS circuit tests, GO to Pinpoint Test E.

• C1236 Left-hand rear wheel speed
o sensor (WSS) signal failure
o Wheel speed sensor gap too large
o Missing tone ring or sensor
o Incorrect tone ring
o Incorrect wheel size
o Check the wheel speed sensor for correct fitment.
REFER to Rear Wheel Speed Sensor - in this section.


What does it mean by "If DTC resets"?

 

To help get around the back bolt access issue with the Tstat housing I took off the metal plate on front of the plenum. Made it much easier to get to the back right bolt. I used crows ratcheting wrenches to get those back bolts out. This was on my 03