Engine Fault Reduced Performance
I received the re-built ECU back from ATE today. I installed the ECU, connected the battery and started. Started OK, and I let it run for approx. 10 minutes and turned it off. Restarted about 5 minutes later and drove about 10 miles. All with no alarms of any kind. It sat for about ½ hour and restarted and drove approx 1 mile. Then I received a ENGINE FAULT with yellow light. I drove direct to my mechanic and he scanned and found no errors or codes. I noticed the cruise control light was out and I couldn’t turn it back on. I then disconnected the battery and reconnected after counting to 10. It started right up and then upon throttle down it quit with an ENGINE STALLED alarm. I turned off the ignition and restarted and everything seems to be fine, I drove about another 10-15 miles and it ran fine. Any ideas what I should be looking for? Any and all remarks, ideas are welcome. Thanks
Contact ATE tech support.
I had my ABS module rebuilt at the same time as the ECU and we had problems after the ABS module was installed.
ATE FAXed over a step by step diagnostic process which allowed my mechanic to ID and solve that problem.
I had my ABS module rebuilt at the same time as the ECU and we had problems after the ABS module was installed.
ATE FAXed over a step by step diagnostic process which allowed my mechanic to ID and solve that problem.
Sounds like its learning to drive again. At least you're not getting the same fault every time, which makes me think it's a learning error.
If you don't mind losing your stations and reprogramming those windows, do a hard reset...touch your disconnected negative to your connected positive terminal and clear all memories. Most likely the ECU is on a different 'grade level' and could be expecting other systems to be similar to it. It couldn't hurt.
Disconnecting the battery for only 10 minutes is like a 'soft reset', some capacitors will still have a charge, like the ABS, tranny and other control modules.
just tossing an idea out there...
If you don't mind losing your stations and reprogramming those windows, do a hard reset...touch your disconnected negative to your connected positive terminal and clear all memories. Most likely the ECU is on a different 'grade level' and could be expecting other systems to be similar to it. It couldn't hurt.
Disconnecting the battery for only 10 minutes is like a 'soft reset', some capacitors will still have a charge, like the ABS, tranny and other control modules.
just tossing an idea out there...
Thanks h20boy...I think it is a "learning" thing as well. After the last engine fault light and battery disconnect, I had another engine fault yellow light this morning, had it scanned and no codes. All I did this time was turn off the car and re-started after 30 min. and no alarm. During all of this it seems to be running fine. If this is still going on next week, I'll try the hard reset. Thanks again for the info, greatly appreciated.
I apologize for not mentioning that I had the same issue once my ECM had been rebuilt....I had simply forgotten.....
The car needs to relearn the parameters. Don't bother with any restarts/resets. Just keep driving and eventually all your error codes should go away. First the "engine fault" warning goes away...and then you will be left with only the "check engine" light. In a few more days of driving that will go away as well.
The car needs to relearn the parameters. Don't bother with any restarts/resets. Just keep driving and eventually all your error codes should go away. First the "engine fault" warning goes away...and then you will be left with only the "check engine" light. In a few more days of driving that will go away as well.
Good info, thanks. I was able to finally retrieve a code this morning using a different scanner. We got "Pending" P1000 code. As I understand it from reading in my JTIS it is truly a "learning" code. "On-board diagnostic test have not been completed". I read on and found that there is a way to see if the "drive times" have been long enough. In my case I'm sure they haven't. It also stated that after 40 start cycles if it is still an issue, it will set the "Check Eng" error.
So thanks again for the info, I'm just going to make some long drives with her, PERFECT....
So thanks again for the info, I'm just going to make some long drives with her, PERFECT....
Well, this is still going on....I posted another post "ECM Adaption" ATE forgot to send this start up to me with the ECM. I have tried this and still getting the yellow engine fault and my cruise won't work. Communicating with ATE has been a little slow going. We will keep trying........
Good question...mine doesn't require it when I do the reset, but earlier models may have that still have that feature built-in. Call your dealer and ask if that will happen for your MY..if they say probably, then ask them if you give them the VIN, can they look up the code for you. I wouldn't want to do the hard reset either if that would be the result...and no code to put in.
I have a card that has the code numbers on it that came with the car. If you have to enter the code the radio will show this on its screen. You use the channel select buttons to enter the code.
I didn't do a hard reset.
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scottatl
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
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Sep 4, 2015 08:08 PM
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