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Engine stall

  #1  
Old 07-07-2014, 03:25 PM
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Default Engine stall

2000 XKR
88,000km

Hi
Firstly let me say a big thanks to the forum for giving me the confidence to take on some recent jobs on my newly acquired 2000 XKR, over the past few months I have successfully completed-

ABS Module re-solder.
Valve gasket and spark plug replacement.
Secondary timing chain tensioners.
Knock sensor replacement and S/C oil change.

The car has been running great until last week when she stalled at a junction on the way to work, turned off the ignition and she started right back up, no CEL or fault codes, continued on my way and 15 mins later on the highway at 120kph she cut out again, managed to pull to the hard shoulder, again no CEL just "engine stall" on the display. Same start up procedure as before, started her up and returned home. Checked with a ODB reader no stored faults other that P1000 which I've had since day 1.

Checked out the TB, cleaned the valve, doesn't appear to be sticking, cleaned all electrical connections to the TB, and took her out yesterday, first junction she stalled again. No codes or faults.

My question is- is there something else I should consider prior to having the TB rebuilt or is that the next logical step.

Thanks
Brian
 
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian1959

Checked out the TB, cleaned the valve, doesn't appear to be sticking, cleaned all electrical connections to the TB, and took her out yesterday, first junction she stalled again. No codes or faults.
Did you thoroughly clean the rim (edges) of the butterfly valve, and the hinge points of the butterfly?

There are several possible causes, of course, but yours sounds like classic sticking butterfly valve to me. The "stick" is intermittent...you wouldn't likely feel it when manipulating the butterfly valve with your fingers. Edges and hinge points of the butterfly are important points to be cleaned, in addition to the throttle body bore itself. Also the idle air bypass valve while you're in there.


.
 
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the info "The Coupe", I did clean it when I had the S/C off, however I will recheck and re-clean.
 
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:06 AM
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Before sending the throttle body in for rebuild, I suggest removing the ECU (with the battery disconnected) and checking very carefully for visible signs of leaking electrolytic capacitors: brown or black stains, dampness or corrosion anywhere on the circuit board.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 07-08-2014 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:32 PM
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Not sure if you have a supercharger or not, but you might try cleaning your mass air flow sensor according to the directions.

A dirty MAF sensor can do erratic things like this.
 
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
Before sending the throttle body in for rebuild, I suggest removing the ECU (with the battery disconnected) and checking very carefully for visible signs of leaking electrolytic capacitors: brown or black stains, dampness or corrosion anywhere on the circuit board.
What you do if you find this? Do you resolder new caps?
 
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:08 PM
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I do agree with Steve about checking the ECM but a visual check does not tell all. My ECM showed no abnormalities when I removed the cover but still sent it in to be checked and they did find a few problems. As for the shutdown I experienced the same thing and it was the TB. You can send the ECU in to be checked but it will at a cost.
 
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by auburn2
What you do if you find this? Do you resolder new caps?
No, the electrolyte is very caustic and will damage the circuit board. In most cases, they can be rebuilt, which includes repair of the circuit board and replacement of defective parts. Companies such as ASI do this.

I also agree with Gus that there could be non-visible faults, but the leaking capacitor issue is quite common at the age of these cars.
 
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