Starting a new thread as there was a lot of incorrect information presented in the old one partially because I panicked and misinterpreted certain things partially because of miscommunication with my mechanic.

Almost a month ago as I was about to pull out from a parking lot and the car stalled while in Park. I panicked and had it towed to my mechanic who struggled for a week and called it quits. I found a local Jag guy and was ready to tow the car but it started right up and I took it home. Drove it locally for a few week about 5 miles radius. Had it idle in the driveway for 10+ minutes, no issues. Then last Friday while in a parking lot the car stalls again while in Drive. Started right back up and I was able to get it home. In the driveway it wouldn't stay on, the engine would stall in under a minute. Started right up, stalls again, no hesitation just quits. Here is the video:



Had some travels planned and left it in the driveway for a week (usually it seats in the garage). Try starting it last night and have a whole bunch of error messages and it almost looks like the computer restarts at the end. Here is the vid:


I purchased OBDII reade ELM 327 and want to try to figure this out before I surrender again and have it towed. Where do I start, I would imagine now there is a dozen of codes in there after seeing all these error messages.

Thank you for your help.

Read the codes and post them.

Charge the battery. Your most recent attempt with all the errors was probably due to a discharged battery. After you record the codes erase them and try again. If the codes repeat we will try to help, but you have to have a fully charged healthy battery.

The battery was changed at the beginning of the summer...

Your video indicates that it's near dead and at a minimum needs a full charge.

Was bought at Sears, should I have it replaced? Previous one lasted over five years! I am sure I could have it swapped out under warranty.

We're not saying the battery is bad, but if the car isn't driven frequently and you don't use a maintainer the voltage will drop enough to cause strange error codes while attempting to start.

Members with a lot of first hand experience, even professionals, offer assistance on the forum. They are trying to help, but can't do so when you ignore their advice.

CHARGE the battery, not CHANGE the battery.

will do, report back tmr

thank you

if the battery is not the issues, and you look at other things and don't see an issue i'd look at the main computer. 97 is notorious for having issues that represent them selves in the manner you are seeing. I had a 97 and it did the same things progressively getting worse till it was not driveable.

Here are a couple of cranking attenpts with the fully charged battery.


I am having a hard time using ELM327 bluetooth scanner with my iPhone or iPad. It simply does not appear under blue tooth devices. I bought two of them, one for me and one for my buddy, neither one is recognized. Any suggestions???

I think you'll find you require a wi-fi ELM327 for an iPhone.

Thank you, I was afraid that this may be the case. Ordered one with expedited delivery, should have it tnght.

I would imagine that there are plenty of error codes that are not related to the issue at hand. If it possible to clear the codes, should I do that first, then try starting the car, and then download the codes? Or should I just download and post the codes without trying to clear them?

thx

Well, if you want to start from scratch, you can clear the OBD codes and do a hard reset - remove the positive battery cable and touch it to the ground post. The make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight and the battery is charged. A weak battery can cause a lot of spurious codes. Your symptoms may point to a fuel delivery issue. Have you ever had the fuel pump replaced ?

Codes are your friend. They help you in getting to the root cause of the problem. Start by getting the codes. You can always clear them later...

So I wasn't able to connect at all using iPhone version of Torque Pro. Was able to connect using DashCmd and CarDoctor. Both indicate the following:
No Stored Codes
Pending Codes
P1000
P1367
P1368
No Permanent Codes

The above was with the ignition ON / engine OFF.

Suggestions for the next steps, please.

From what little I have been able to gleen from previous posts about those two codes they suggest possible bad ground to ECM, bad connection to ECM, or bad ECM. I would probobly start by checking ground connections from battery forward then cleaning connections to ECM. Not sure how to check ECM.

Here is what I was able to come up with:

P1367:
Ignition monitoring circuit between splice and ECM: open circuit, short circuit to ground, short circuit to B+ voltage
Ignition module / coils bank 1 ground circuit fault

P1368:

Trace the wiring etc - see workshop manual as it usually has all the tests.

Are you referring to JTIS, or is it a separate document I could download?