Engine won't start
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From: Essex, UK
Engine won't start
2002 XK8, 99,000 miles. Went to start the car just now, it turns over but is not firing. There is a whistling/singing noise from the top of the engine, towards the back, possibly around the throttle body which changes pitch when I operate the throttle.
No codes logged.
Help please....
No codes logged.
Help please....
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Senior Member
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From: Essex, UK
yeah, fuse and relay are ok. my final check needs to be for power to the connector.
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The relay is ok as are the fuses, I have power to the relay socket but it is not being switched to earth (by the ecm I'm told) so the relay isn't activating.
I guess that the ecm requires various correct conditions to be met before switching on the fuel pump so where else should I be looking?
I guess that the ecm requires various correct conditions to be met before switching on the fuel pump so where else should I be looking?
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If the voltage, checked with a voltmeter, across the battery terminals is less than 12.6 volts, the battery should be charged for ten hours at 5 to 10 amps and retested. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect and must be replaced for the vehicle to function properly.
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If the voltage, checked with a voltmeter, across the battery terminals is less than 12.6 volts, the battery should be charged for ten hours at 5 to 10 amps and retested. If the voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect and must be replaced for the vehicle to function properly.
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From: Essex, UK
Just taken readings,
With conditioner charger connected: 13.1v
With charger disconnected but with battery connected to car: 13.09v
As above but after having unlocked the car using the remote: 12.9v
With ignition switched on: 12.27v
Voltage measured at positive solenoid terminal of relay socket: 12.25v
Not particularly good are they?
Removed battery and placed on a 10a charger, 2.65a @ 13.5v
With conditioner charger connected: 13.1v
With charger disconnected but with battery connected to car: 13.09v
As above but after having unlocked the car using the remote: 12.9v
With ignition switched on: 12.27v
Voltage measured at positive solenoid terminal of relay socket: 12.25v
Not particularly good are they?
Removed battery and placed on a 10a charger, 2.65a @ 13.5v
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From: Essex, UK
The car had been suffering from intermittent ABS/Trac unavailable warnings in the hot weather we've had this summer so I removed the module and resoldered the motor connection pins as per jagrepair.com. I had to disconnect the brake lines to do this so now need to bleed the brakes, I went to start the car to move it out of the garage so I had room to work, it fired then died. I suspect the residual fuel pressure in the rails was sufficient to charge a couple of cylinders.
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There is no PATS lamp on the car.
An update though, I have tried to start the engine by putting a jump link across the relay socket to supply power to the pump. Pump running ok but still not starting. I have a spark so there must be something else preventing the engine firing, could the injectors be immobilised by the same thing that's not allowing the fuel pump to run?
I'm wondering if it's a security problem, thinking on from your suggestion of a PATS? I have a problem with the sounder blowing fuse 3 and 10 in the engine bay box. I'm going to remove the sounder to investigate and also get it out of circuit so I can replace the fuses, no 3 covers several circuits including ign+ve so worth a try.
An update though, I have tried to start the engine by putting a jump link across the relay socket to supply power to the pump. Pump running ok but still not starting. I have a spark so there must be something else preventing the engine firing, could the injectors be immobilised by the same thing that's not allowing the fuel pump to run?
I'm wondering if it's a security problem, thinking on from your suggestion of a PATS? I have a problem with the sounder blowing fuse 3 and 10 in the engine bay box. I'm going to remove the sounder to investigate and also get it out of circuit so I can replace the fuses, no 3 covers several circuits including ign+ve so worth a try.
If I am correct the #3 fuse feeds power to the starter solenoid and that I contribute to your constant starting the car. You should keep that too short burst of starting. As for the #10 fuse is for the engine control module, park/neutral switch, cruise control VSV 1 & 2 where fitted.
Have you had the ECM checked?
I would be checking the grounding points to see if you have an issue in that area.
Link to checking grounding JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
If that checks out then I would swap all the same relays associated to engine/ignition control
Link to 2002 xk8 wiring http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2002.pdf
At this point if nothing is found I would clean plugs and connectors related to starting and engine controls. You have 2 connectors behind the throttle body one for the shifter selection switch on the transmission and the other is for spark and fuel injectors. You could do a pin check at the transmission selector plug to be sure the reading from the shifter selector switch is in line with the selection at the shifter.
Remember that the shiftier selector switch sends a signal to the transmission control module and it then sends a signal to the engine control module saying all is good or not. Yes the security system has a big job in starting the car but that has been few and far between. First eliminate the engine control first then move on to the security system.
Have you had the ECM checked?
I would be checking the grounding points to see if you have an issue in that area.
Link to checking grounding JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
If that checks out then I would swap all the same relays associated to engine/ignition control
Link to 2002 xk8 wiring http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2002.pdf
At this point if nothing is found I would clean plugs and connectors related to starting and engine controls. You have 2 connectors behind the throttle body one for the shifter selection switch on the transmission and the other is for spark and fuel injectors. You could do a pin check at the transmission selector plug to be sure the reading from the shifter selector switch is in line with the selection at the shifter.
Remember that the shiftier selector switch sends a signal to the transmission control module and it then sends a signal to the engine control module saying all is good or not. Yes the security system has a big job in starting the car but that has been few and far between. First eliminate the engine control first then move on to the security system.
