It's been 2 years since I've logged in. My 2000 XKR hasn't given me much trouble; but I haven't used it much. Well I've experienced some strong thumping in the front suspension over rough roads. On the lift everything looks good, even the sway bar bushes. Then I pulled the cover off the top of the shocks in the engine bay; where the CATS wire connects, and I found what looks like crumbled plastic. Is this isolator material in the upper spring mount?

 

Steve, the color is confounding me. Looks the same as the electrical connector housing. I'm sure you can see the difference standing in front of it.

If it is different material/issue then yes I sure would suspect the upper shock mount as the source of the noise and the crumbles.

How do you test? Measure ride height. Center of front wheel to top of wheel arch. I don't have it memorized, someone will surely jump in and spec it out for you.

Or you can do a quick search on ride height. We've had many discussions in it. Get the Polly replacement- far superior in performance and longevity than the one you posted a photo of. I believe our sponsor SNG barrett sells them.

John

 

Just searched for you. Front: 15.78 inches.

John

 

Got the spring/shocks off my 2000 XKR today. Mount plates and bump stops are totally perished. All of the cushion material is gone. The rubber boots on the lower bushes are gone too. New mounts, bump stops (spring assisters) and lower bushes were only $205 + shipping from SNG. Thankfully, no leaks emanating from the CATS shocks themselves.

 

You've certainly had your moneys worth out of them!

Graham

 

If I had known about this issue I would have repaired it long ago. I'd hear thumping over dirt roads but couldn't figure out what the problem was. Car had 65K miles when purchased 7 years ago; only 83K now.

 

I received new mounts from SNG. The price was reasonable and the quality looks good. However; the 2 plates were not riveted together. I went ahead and installed them along with new lower bushes also from SNG. Did I mess up? Is it essential for the two plates to be riveted? Sorry I didn't take a picture.

 

The rivets are in the top section only.

 

You going to be doing the rear shocks bushings too while you in there of course. I thought those were easier than the front was. Be like a new car again.
Are you planning to put the alignment shims back in OEM positions or do a custom swap on drivers side? That is what I did on mine to lessen bump steer and don't regret it a bit.

 

I had to use my Harbor Freight press to get the bushes out of the front shocks; so I assume I'd have to remove the rear shocks to do the same. The procedure to remove the rear shocks says to drop the entire bottom brace that supports the diff. If so that doesn't seem "easier" to me, although I can do it of course. Were you were able to do the job with the rear shocks in place with a hand press (C-clamp?). I have spring compressors to try to extend the bottom through the mount a bit more for access to the bushing eyelet.

Okay now you really have me puzzled on the shims. I didn't change anything. I didn't have to remove the upper control arms or mess with the cross shafts or shims to get the shocks out...just a little persistence and they wiggled/wrangled out. Is that what you are referring to...the upper control arm shims? Please explain the benefit...more caster? P.S. the front shock lower bushings actually weren't too bad, but the boots were perished and of course I wanted that new car feel.

 

Yes, more castor = less bump steer. Normally you leave the rt side oem, and switch up the shims on the drivers side to match. In their infinite wisdom, the factory put 2 shims in front one side and 2 shims in back other side. In other words, the factory spec is different from one side to the other.

 

Marc
What about the rear bushes? Did you remove the shocks or do them in place?

 

Steve, did you read the thread for dropping the rear shock down through the hole in the lower A arm and changing out the bushing. Looked to be do able.
Jon and I had trouble with the rivets on those top bushings, I thought Jon89 had talked to Welsh and got them to sort that out. Sorry, wish you had read our thread on putting SS bolts in there. The rivets kept popping out, now if they are needed once installed, can't see it matters. Where's it going to go.
Wayne

 

The rears were way less trouble as I recall to mess with, so I just removed the whole shock to put in my electric press and made quick work out of those nasty bushings. They even give you a lot of extra wire so you not fighting the CATS electrical.

 

If you have the proper sized dies to push the old bush out, then R&R on the car is pretty easy. One can use either a 1/2" or 3/4" bolt and nut arrangement, or a large C-clamp, to push out and pull in the bushes.

That being said, with the car on a lift, I'd remove the entire shock/spring assy. By dropping the plate, and a little downward leverage on hub uprights, the the whole assembly comes out and you can work on the bench.

I've done it both ways and prefer the later. Although the first time I R&R the bushes on the car, I did not have a good set of tools and was winging it. Busted knuckes and yes.. swear words. gordo

 

Might as well replace the upper cushions when I do the job. They are okay for now. Thanks for all the input. P.S. my mirror started the dreaded fade. I scored one from a local yard for $75...hope it lasts.