Guys, I was just thinking about where I should spend my next $300 on the Jag. It comes down to: change tranny fluid (first time 98k miles); or replace lower ball joints & lower control arm bushes.

I probably tend to put ride quality/experience at top of my lists, but I am mindfull of the cost to rebuild a tranny.

As some things gradually wear, you don't notice the change cause it happens so gradually. Mind if I ask: what do worn lower ball joints feel like from a driver's perspective in these cars?

I should note, one Mechanic found a bit of play in the ball joints, that's why it's on the list. I've had a torn boot on one of then for a year+ now.

This will help me make a good choice for next project.

Thanks, John

 

Slop in the steering, funny tire wear, a clunk. (My car had 2 of the three) Unlike a lot of cars, lower ball joint failure seems low on an X100 because its not under tension and they can likely live with a torn boot a lot longer than a Chrysler or Chevy.


Water is just as likely to come out of the boot as is to go in.


I replaced my Lower balljoints because I had the suspension torn apart anyway. If my mounts/bushings were good, I would have been less likely to attempt it.

 

Thanks, you bring up good points. I bet I'd get a much larger ride improvement from replacing the bushings than the ball joint.

 

This turned out to be my lower ball joint, was about the last place I checked.

 

Because it's a 98 and transmission failure is somewhat common, I would do the filter fluid replacement 1st. As mentioned, the ball joint is not a load bearing item and could be scheduled at a later date.

 

Don't want to cause more stress but my 97 that had all its virgin parts in the front end required replacement of all related parts. Failure was due to the rubber breaking down from all the years, every boot was bad and bushings were really sad. Take a measurement from center of wheel to the top of wheel arch of fender, this measurement will tell the story. A complete rebuild of front end is not cheap at a shop so hope you or a fried has experience. Lower wish bone ball joint is a bear to change even if you know what you are doing, alternative of buying jag part will cause something similar to near heart attack.

Transmission maintenance should be priority at that age, probably low on fluid if you haven't had it checked and that mileage should have been done once with the age of car should have been done 2-3 times to keep fluid fresher.

PO had to put a new transmission and associated parts at 115K due to poor maintenance.

 

Thanks Tex. I've been slowly rebuilding the front end myself. I've heard how tough that lower ball joint is so it's the last partime on the list and I'm there now.

Regardinge ride quality: I've got two things on my mind that I can tackle: 1- recheck my front shock upper isolator. I don't recall where I bought it from 2 years ago, but some have been failing.

2- lower wishbone bushes. Given that the ball joint is a bear to deal with, someone suggested that the her bush is much less so. I'll never forget the article on Jaguar World about this (wish I could recall the issue-step by step instructions), it apparently has article huge effect on ride and handling quality.

I think I'll put the fluid replacement first on the list. Especially if it helps longevity. Thanks, John

 

Everything on the front end you can do with the larger C-clamp rental tool from the auto-parts store except the lower ball joint. You may want to check with a couple stores asking them to allow you to inspect what they have, so you can find on in decent shape prior to starting.

Ride height measurement will tell if the upper shock mount is going.

IMO doing all the parts when you take anything apart is the way to go. Bushings are fairly easy, followed by upper ball then lower ball. Getting lower it out is the worst part, you may want to inquire local machine shops to see if they are interested in helping you. Cutting out the old one is the way to go in my opinion, cut ball out and then large drill through back of cup, then sawzall cut from center hole to edge of the cup allowing the tension between cup and lower arm to relax then fairly easy press out.

 

John, have you put a Trango pressure valve in yet. If you are changing oil and filter it would be a good time to put it in. IMHO it will do more for longevity than a fluid change.

 

No Bob, I don't even recognize it. If you get a chance could you please say a little more about it, including typical part price and labor effort.

Thanks a million, John

 

It is the pressure valve that is believed to cause the pressure spikes that can cause the A drum failure. It is on ebay for around $41 and it takes about an hour to install if yoi have the new valve prepared. What I mean by prepare is that install the new split rings on the new valve then you put temporary o rings on the split rings to compress them. Then you put in the freezer for a few hours to get cold then when you take it out install it immediately into the valve body. They give you very good instructions on the install.
I'm working on my rental today but later when I go to my shop I'll take pics of the guide and post them.

 

Here you go John.

 

Thank you Bob, John

 

Going a bit OT here, but I've been procrastinating as usual over this job. While the 'A' drum is an all-too-common failure on our transmissions: what I've read is in agreement with BobRoy that the cause is as much due to the valve giving trouble as any inherent weakness in the drum. It has also been blamed by some for a crack in the valve body.

There's a ZF TSB somewhere that recommends fitting the upgraded valve whenever the drum is replaced due to failure. The change between old and new is so small that I'm surprised it makes a difference (not that I'm any form of transmission expert), which is why I've finally opted to go the Transgo route.

Doing the job while you have the transmission oil sump off to replace the filter adds no more than about 1 to 1 1/2 hours to the total AFAIK. Make sure you have the filler plug loose before you drain the oil

Mike