I need to access the module under the front passenger seat because the seat warmer is not working. My problem is that I cannot remove the screws/bolts from the runners. I have broken a impact quality T40 driver and twisted another T40. This thing seems to be welded into place. There is no corrosian and it looks like it would not be a problem. Even that EVERYTHING to do with maintenance is a problem. Anyone have an idea about removing the bolts short of a acetylene torch?

 

Please don't be offended by the question.

You are trying to remove the bolt arrowed in BLUE and not the ones arrowed in RED?

2005 Jaguar XK8 - Front Seat Fixings.pdf

I've had the front seats out of my XK8 but didn't take much notice of the fixing nuts. If they are the same as the XJ8, the T Screws go into this pattern of captive nut:



This one was ripped out of the floor on my XK8L. For problems with this pattern, the easiest solution would be to drill or grind the T Screw head off.

If no one posts confirmation of the type of securing nut, I'll be taking my driver's seat out on Saturday and will check then if you can wait.

Graham

 

When I replaced my convertible top hydraulic hoses I removed the seats and never had any type of problems with the bolts sometimes with a Torx bit you have to be straight on otherwise they can break. Good Luck with getting them out.

 

Soak it overnight with some penetrating oil, and invest in a professional Snap-On or Mac driver socket. You can order it direct online. It will probably run $25 or so for a single driver socket, but it will not break.

 

Okay, I will order a MAC driver set and spray the bolt with Aero-Kroil, right after I drill and remove the sheered off Torx bit end lodged in the bolt.

 

I removed the passenger seat from my wife's XK8 in mid-February to do the infamous headrest motor cable repair. No issues once I was able to get my socket wrench exactly vertical on the two rear bolts. But I do believe that this is a situation where good ol' Hex bolts would be much better than those damned Torx bolts....

 

With a proper SnapOn Torx socket removing the screw was a "snap". BUT how does one move the seat forward without it working on power so as to access the rear mounting screw? I fell like a putz, I can rebuild an engine but can't remove a #$$@&%#$ seat!

 

Did your seat have power before unplugging it? I noticed that you said the heater wasn't working, I saw no mention of travel forward or backwards not working. If it worked just plug it back in.

 

Funny, only in that I didn't pay attention to the proper order one time, just like Rich. Then I couldn't get to the module to disconnect it before lifting the seat.

Iniitally, raise the seat cushion up all the way, it helps. Then, if you move the seat forward, you can remove the rear bolts first, then move the seat backward and get the rear. After that, disconnect the module (since its now easy to get to) and fold up the seat for removal.

 

Thanks, here is the story. First the seat stopped moving, in the back position, no forward motion. I wasn't to concerned about it because anyone could fit without having to move the seat. Then the heated seat stopped functioning (indicator light on switch does not come on). Now I am concerned because this irritates my wife, and what irritates her, well you know. So I tried to remove the front screws that only twisted the Torx socket. I bought a Snap-On socket ($25) and was able to remove the front screws, then the module. Yes I checked the fuses, every one of them. I opened the module and with a DVM traced all the circuits and found them to have continuity. This leads me to believe that possibly one of the other connectors has been pulled apart under the seat, but of course I cannot check this because I can't get the %$#@ing seat out. I thing I'm ready to sell, or find a shrink! Oh yes, the lumbar back adjustment still works.
PS: I had to drive the car with the module unplugged, and viola' the check engine light came on, and restricted performance was displayed. I plugged the module back in, reset the codes and everything is back to normal, except for the seat.

 

The car is screwing with me, the code was caused by a dirty MAF sensor. Coincidence? Maybe!

 

Any of the relays/motors can be driven directly with 12vdc. That means you can find the one that controls the motion you want and move the seat as required.

You can also try using the torx bit without the drive socket and substitute a box wrench for turning it so that it can fit under the rear seat pan. If that works, then as the bolt is coming out, you will need to keep lifting the seat to keep what little working room you have.

 

I will give it a go. However I believe that the module is okay and that one of the other connectors deep under the seat has become disconnected, this is why I need to remove the seat. The problem of removing the rear screw, does not the sliding seat rail cover the rear screw when it seat is in the rear position?

 

I have exactly the same problem with my 2003 XJ8, the seat has no power and is stuck in the back position over the back two Torx bolts so I can't remove the seat to check the module or wiring.
My mechanic suggested connecting 12V to the forward/backwards motion motor to move the seat enough to get at the back bolts. I think I can lift up the upholstered bottom part of the seat to get at the motor (on mine it is the motor that is sideways between the tracks). I haven't tried it yet because the seat is fine for me- my wife has to use a cushion to reach the pedals though. I looked up 'seat frame motor' for my car on Ebay and got some helpful photos.

 

I was able to remove the seat. It was not easy! The engineers had to design the seat so that it could be removed in the event of a motor failure. If you look at the top of the sliding seat track you will see two T45 bolts holding the seat to the track. Further back, just before the seat back hinge there is another T45. Now tilt the seat back forward and there is a forth T45. The other side of the seat has the same bolt configuration. With these bolts removed the track will slide on its own because it is no longer connected to the seat. At this point the track can be slid forward exposing the rear T40 bolts holding the seat to the chassis. Sounds easy but the front two bolts under the seat control switches have no direct access. I had to remove a T45 fluted stem from a socket, placing the stem into the bolt and turning it with a 5/16 box wrench. The shafts of these bolts are triangular shaped imparting a locking action all along the shaft. They are difficult to remove and require much torque. So okay my seat is out and reassembled to the track. PS: I used M8-1.25 hex head flange bolts in the front two positions to make the reassembly MUCH easier.

 

On going seat saga continues. I reassembled the seat, and taped the power supply to the seat back and forth motor, terminated wit a connector that goes to a DPDT switch so I can move the seat powered through a cigarette lighter tap. That is if this happens again. I serviced the seat by greasing the screw drives and removed 12mm of sheath from the headrest cable. Now I have to deal with the seat module. It looks like there has been some corrosion shorting between two wire traces on the PCB. At least we now know that the seat can be removed without power.

 

What size Torx bit did you end up with from SnapOn? The mysterious T35 that it seems to be is a unicorn. I've heard tell that it might be a Torx Plus TP27; however before shelling out for a bit on spec ...

Thanks