I find lots of threads on just replacing the upper shock mount, but I'm coming up empty on understanding how the spring perch works if replacing the shock. I figure at 100k I might as well do both.

 

Ro,
do you mean the "shelf" like plate the spring sits on at the bottom? Its called a spring pan MJA2166BC.

I'm not so sure what perch refers to. Let us know.

If so: note the white plastic spacer at the junction between spring and the plate. Careful with it, if no new one reuse it but don't crack it.

I'll wait for more.

John

 

There is a lip stamped into the body of the shock and the spring pan fits over the top of the shock and catches on that lip to hold it in place.

There are two types of plastic shims that sit under the spring, a black color flat one and also a white color tapered one. The white one has a tab that is intended to rest against the cut end of the spring coil which serves to locate the taper to the correct part of the spring.

 

Thanks - so when the spring is compressed it will come off the shock and then that spring pan is just loose and slides off/slides into the new one where there will be a lip to catch it? I can see a groove in the picture of new Bilsteins but it doesn't look substantial enough to support the spring pan but I guess it is.

 

1. Compression to unbolt shock. pay attention to the orientation of the 3 bolts!!! First timers like me don't, then realize you CANNOT reinstall unless the upper shock mount is correctly orientated to the bolt hole on bottom of shock. And your not going to move it around without recompressing the spring
2. Lip holds pan yes.
3. Be ready, probably need a pipe clamp to install new shock mount in spring coil.
4. Going to rent spring compressor? Rent 2 sets! Life will be so much easier with the spring Compression.

 

On my car the mounts were gone but the shocks were good. I could not remove the shocks until I released the upper "A" arm. There is a video that shows removal by just releasing the sway bar link but I could not make that work. My shocks were replacement Bilstiens that were good but if you have the original "green" shocks I would replace them. Removing the "A" arm fulcrum bold is hard and required a lot of lubrication and some "hammering" to remove. I did not replace the "A" arm bushings but that will need to be done in the near future. The spring is very strong and I had a shop reassemble my struts. The advice of using two sets of "stick" spring compressors sound good if you are going to do it yourself.. Regarding the lower spring seat mine was good and I never touched it. Who ever replaced the original shocks on my car left off the bumbers so those needed to be added. I used eurospare upper mounts and time will tell how they hold up. Of course alignment is crucial to get the strut back into the car.

My stance on the car improved and my ride height is likely a half inch taller. Front end nice and tight and there is a noticible difference in handling. Take your time.

PS: When redoing the upper A arm I needed to replace a few of the washers and spacers as the previous installation was bad and correct parts were missing. I got these parts from Harper Jaguar.

 

I recently replaced the shock absorbers, shock mounts, ball joints, and control arm, or wishbone, bushings. The long pivot bolts for the upper wishbones came out really easy. I grabbed them with my hand and twisted while I pulled and out they came. I didn't even spray them with WD40 to remove them. I've heard of some having a tough time with these but I guess I got lucky. Maybe you will too.

 

The "top hat" lower spring mounts rest on circlips that fit in the grooves of the shocks, but may need a hammer to persuade them to move. There's a lot of weight on those little circlips, so check they're sound. I replaced the lower spring mounts on my car while I was repairing the rust behind the front sub-frame and was glad that I did. The replacements were 30% heavier that the rusty ones I took off!