Got towed to my local garage and had the fuel pump and filter replaced. $500. labor and $100 parts. My condo doesn't allow major repairs, so there was no choice. All of your write-ups were very helpful in me understanding the job. My tech even used the homemade pvc tool to release the fuel lines.
One thing I learned in the diagnosis was to not simply push on the fuel rail schader valve once to see if gas spurts out; there was residual pressure in the system that led me to believe the pump was okay. Opening the filler cap and depressurizing then gave no fuel pressure when I cranked it.
For what it's worth, my car sits unused for 5 months a year. Typical scenario I guess.
Thanks to all who have posted on this problem before.

 

Several years ago both my Fuel Pumps failed during Winter Storage. Now, every 3 weeks or so, I remove the Fuel Pump Relay(s) and jumper the contacts to "Exercise" the Pump(s).

 

just had a thought this morning about storage ...

if a vehicle is being stored for some time, then before storage run a tank of ethanol free gas throught the system and refill with ethanol free gas just before storage and add the usual fuel stabiliser

 

i have the relays wired on the signal side with double pole switches so that the primary/seconday function can be flipped every so often to even out the usage pattern since the secondary doesn't get much exercise

 

Home made pvc tool?

 

An excellent idea. Jaguar should have alternated the Main/Aux Pump selection every engine start to even out the usage. Would have been easy to do.

 

There is a video showing how to make a tool out of pvc conduit or pipe that allows you to release the quick disconnects to the fuel tank. Might be a link on Gus' site or Rev Sam, can't remember. The connectors are hard to access.

 

Mine is being done and the guy quoted me $500 in parts and $500 in labor. He said that he also has to replace the sender harness and filter. I thought that was a bit high, but his is the only Indy Jag repair shop I found in Baton Rouge.

He also said that there as oil in some of the spark plug holes and the valve cover gaskets needed to be replaced along with the plugs and wiring. He said that would cost me $850. Once again, I thought that was very high. Should I look around a little harder for someone else who can do the job.

What do you guys think? Thanks in advance.

 

I, too, am guilty of this stupid mistake! My car sat for several months, over this cold winter, w/out being started. It also had a tiny bit of premium gas in tank. I charged the battery and it fired right up, the 1st time. I let it run until temp gauge reached the midline, turned it off and added small amount of oil. About 15 min. later, I tried to start. It cranked, but wouldn't ignite. I thought I was out of gas, so, added 2 gal. of regular (AAA club rules), still same thing. Then added 2 more premium gal., to no avail.
I was advised by friends that maybe moisture was in tank, and get "HEET", also "Sea Foam" motor treatment. I did, and tried to start right away, it still cranked, but no fire.
I think I could hear the fuel pump come on, when positioning key at 1st setting. I also tried to prime 8 times, before trying to start, same thing, again.
Mechanically inclined friends thought maybe deposits had collected from the small amount of sitting fuel turning to a varnish, that sat in tank over the dormant time, and clogged the injector system.
Spoke to older mechanic, over phone, he thinks fuel pump locked up, due to old fuel. Would I be able to hear fuel pump come on, if it were locked up?

I welcome experienced advice, from any of you, all over the world.
Thanks so much!
Learned an expensive lesson, and hope you all will, too.

 

Assuming you have an XK8?? If so you will hear a slight buzz from the fuel pump for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on to position 2. I would have thought it's unlikely that all the injectors would gum up - sounds more like fuel pump to me - only sure way to check the pump is connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail Schrader fitting. I'd eliminate that before checking anything else.(and no - you would not hear the pump run if it's locked up)

 

Ms M M, the other possibility is "cylinder wash" if you have an older 4.0 liter engine. What year is your car? Try this link
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

and please edit your profile so we know what year and type of car you have. Welcome!

 

I will try to edit my profile. I'm learning to use this site, and, until I get very accustomed to it, it's not really user friendly, though, the members seem extremely friendly! THANK YOU!
I have a 2000 XK8 convertible, and thought that was showing, as I did enter that on registering. I also want to upload a photo of my car and thought I did that, but, it's not showing. Maybe it's waiting to be approved? Not sure.
Glad to know there is a test, to determine fuel pump prob, or, hopefully determine what else it could be.

 

You can check to see if your fuel pump is working by pressing on the schrader valve (looks like a tire valve) located on the top passenger side of the engine (pull the plastic engine cover off). Before you do this, relieve the pressure in the system by taking off your gas filler cap. Gas should spurt out of the valve, so be careful not to spray yourself. Let the pressure out and then crank your car a couple of times. Go back to the schrader valve and see if gas sprays out or just dribbles. If you have good pressure, the pump is okay.
You can check for spark by removing the air intake hose from the throttle body and spraying in some starter fluid. (Not recommended by some because of potential damage to plastic components.) If you get any firing of the engine, then there is spark.
Next is to try flooring the accel. pedal and cranking. With luck, after several attempts the oil pressure will come up and the car will fire.

 

I'd like to thank everyone for your informative responses to my question.

 

Kevin, is your car misfiring? Oil in the plug wells is pretty common and doesn't affect things. If the covers are leaking badly it's a couple hrs easy work to replace the gaskets. Why would the wiring need to be replaced? They are up on top of the covers, not where oil could get at them. If you have the time, take off the coil covers and have a look, especially the plug wells towards the rear of the engine. Those tend to oil up the most. Also, as an aside, my garage quoted me $380. for pump and filter Jag parts. I had already ordered mine from RockAuto (Denso pump, purolator filter) so thats why the parts were $100., so you were in the ballpark on that.

 

Is there a thread that walks you through a fuel pump diagnosis and replacement?

 

I take it, if the gas just dribbles out it is a failing fuel pump issue? I just want to clarify. Thanks

 

For those of you with a coupe that has a woofer in the back window: Remove the woofer, loosen the tank and tilt back, you can remove the pump from the woofer opening. Make sure gas is low in the tank so you do not have to work with your hands in the fuel. of course, vent the cabin to get fumes out, your head will be right over the opening.