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Also,,, I've never had a code reader that gives a voltage that I get when using a DMM at the battery and fuse boxes. Jus say'n... try reading g your voltage at the terminals and at the under hood fuse blocks. At the 13mm cable posts...
I did not clear the codes. I’ll check the battery with my meter.
I cleaned all the ABS sensors today. They did not seem particularly dirty. It was an easy job and I did not have to remove the wheels.
I will erase the codes and hope for the best. I will do the ABS module repair next, unless something more likely is discovered.
I did find a bad front wheel bearing. I ordered the ABS socket and may finally have the reason to justify buying a shop press.
Battery voltage is 12.2 volts with my meter.
The saga continues.
I cleaned all the ABS sensors today. They did not seem particularly dirty. It was an easy job and I did not have to remove the wheels.
I will erase the codes and hope for the best. I will do the ABS module repair next, unless something more likely is discovered.
I did find a bad front wheel bearing. I ordered the ABS socket and may finally have the reason to justify buying a shop press.
Battery voltage is 12.2 volts with my meter.
The saga continues.
Ha! Them from wheel bearings ain't easy...well, not much fun.
I presume the battery voltage was just battery,,, not running? If not, and car was running, I would suggest an alternator right quick.. I have had great luck with a group called "playground" on ebay... Every penny counts for this guy... An OEM denso alt has lasted me 4 strong years. Anywho...
Good stuff on the abs sensors. Thing is, the abs might just right itself with a right charging system. I would get the alt first before going crazy.
I just got done replacing the front wheel bearing. Not that easy of a job. It took a month for me to get the abs ring socket delivered. It was an excuse to buy a shop press. A 20 ton HF press did the trick. I had to make a special plate to remove the ABS ring. I don’t have a sturdy enough work table to be able to remove that nut. I welded it to an equipment stand l have. Test drive went fine. I’ll cross my fingers and keep driving the car. I’ll have everything I need to replace the other side if necessary.
I have the special tool (big steel lollipop with holes) to drop the hub/flange into for the ABS reluctor rotor nut removal but you can just drop the hub assy into a WHEEL to hold it! (the bolt pattern is PERFECT)
I used a 2” 12 point socket from Lowe’s with a 3/4” breaker bar from OReilys and a 10’ long piece of pipe.
To hold the spindle after removing it from the car, I bolted it back onto the removed tire, then put a board on the edge of the rim and lowered the car back down onto it to keep it from moving while applying the removal force.
It took my 275 lbs standing on the socket and tire, and my friend from India on the end of the 10’ lever, but it finally came loose.
I skipped over the things that did not work.
In India they have a name for this method, they call it “Jugar” 😊.
Now if I can figure out which side of the new bearing is the roller and which side is the ball bearing……or if it even matters.