Hey Guys.
After a pretty pain free year with my Jag (well a drive belt, tensioner and pulley replacement aside) we took off on our annual road trip round Europe. (see previous posts for pain associated with last years).

It was glorious, Sunny, after extensive work earlier in the year the air con even worked! its was pleasure to drive - a full refurb, re-truing, balance and alignment of the alloys had even got rid of 80% of the annoying wobble which has always plagued the car.

We commented on how lovely it was not to have to nurse her round (OK it was still leaking oil, but only 2 litres per 1,000 miles... a drop in comparison to previously).

Then inevitably disaster.... Pulling away from a roundabout the gearbox just rev's through... then a little way up the road stopped with a shuddering bang and gearbox failure. (probably front clutch pack i'm told).

The RAC did come to the rescue and got us on our way in a hire car to continue our holiday (pretty good service to be fair.. .would recommend).

Unfortunately they will not repatriate the car, due to its low book value and the costs of the repair at Jaguar spain... (£6,000) an understandable decision based on thier T&C's. but slightly wrong headed from my POV.... (however to their credit they have agreed to review, once i have heard from my garage if they can do it more cheaply... (which of course they can)).

So I have paid to have the car towed home from Girona in spain... I think its worth saving (just). all work will be done by an independent specialist who i have faith in ...(am I allowed to say who)?

My questions are... the gearbox is coming out...
what else should I ask the garage to replace or check while they are in there?
Should I replace, repair or refurbish?
since its still leaking oil a little - any major culprits its easier to get at with the gear box off.

any thoughts from those more mechanically minded appreciated.
J

 

If the gearbox just needs A drum and valve body overhaul it's probably worth rebuilding, but they won't know if there is more damage due to pieces circulating until it's apart.

If the oil leak is the rear main seal that's an obvious repair. In fact, I would would probably have it changed even if it isn't leaking.

 

Thanks RJ237 the rear main was changed when i first got her a couple of years ago... I assume its still likely OK?
if they repair the valve body and clutch pack... is there any other bits I should ask them to change in there? I have heard there is a modification to regulate pressure and stop cracking?
J

 

If you get a rebuilt valve body it will have the newer pressure valve, which was a factor in the old style A drum failure.

The rear main seal should not be a problem, but where is all that oil leaking from? Valve cover gaskets, maybe?

You did have the secondary chain tensioners replaced, I hope. If not, that is essential.

 

the oil is something of an unsolved mystery... the Rear main, Valve/Cam cover seals and gaskets and the Sump pan/ Seal/ Plug have all been changed... which helped alot... now just occasional spot appears on drive, any ideas very welcome!

Due to the amount of money I've had to spend to make the car driveable over the last 24 month the Indy I use has been reluctant to spend even more of my money on hours looking for it, given it was at one stage the least of the problems!

luckily timing chain tensioners where done by the previous owner (I think it was about the only thing he actually did to keep the car running)!

 

There were a couple of reports of oil gallery screw plugs coming loose behind the flywheel. Have your mechanic look for traces of oil there.

Sounds like you're in pretty good shape otherwise. But wait, what about the thermostat housing, crossover pipe and water pump?

 

Thanks again, I don't think anyone has looked there.
oh dear - thermostat housing, crossover pipe and water pump I assume are still original... worth doing now? or would you wait till they show signs of failure? (looks like it would have been better to get this done when i had the font end off for the air con and drive belt. darn).

 

Failure of cooling system parts can result in overheating which often destroys the engine. This is because the temp. gauge reads mid range until about 235 F, then quickly goes to red.

Replacement of the housing, pipe, and pump is fairly easy. New hoses and thermostat should be considered at the same time.

 

best protect the engine.. i'm banking on it being in a good state!
I'll add that to the list... any idea how long it would take most garages?
J

 

I think most members have replaced those parts in 3-4 hrs. being conservative. The therm. housing can be broken off to make removal easier, then the rear screws replaced with socket heads and tightened with ball driver, or if the mechanic has a crow foot wrench the hex heads can be used.

Many of us have bought an aluminum replacement, but some of those are of poor quality. I believe sng barratt has a good one. A water pump with a cast metal impeller is also preferred by many, although mine is plastic and I'm not concerned.

 

Thanks RJ, Really appreciate the input. I don't mind spending the money to save her, but don't want to spend out twice, if you know what I mean!