When I was younger lots of people used to cut a couple of inches off their springs. Sometimes you'd have to wire them to their platforms to keep them in position when the shock was fully extended, but that wasn't a problem, I did it myself on a MK2 Escort.
I'm fitting a new/old front subframe soon and I was thinking that lowering it when it's apart would be nice and if it was free that would be even nicer. Has anyone any thoughts, apart from that I'm being tight that is?

 

The lowering springs tend to be stiffer and or more aggressively progressive. If you cut the springs you lose a lot of range, they don't sit properly in the mounts, and you don't gain stiffness so you'll likely hate the result. Lowering springs aren't that expensive compared to the cost of replacing them. I wouldn't go cheap here. Search on "Don't cut car springs" and you'll see story after story of really bad results. Suspension and brakes are really bad places to go cheap.

 

Thanks Rob.
I checked out some videos and I think you're probably right, if the spring is flat on the end then don't cut it because it won't sit properly seems to be the consensus of opinion.
I had a look on Ebay and some springs from a company called Adamesh drop the car 25mm which doesn't seem to be very much, but there's another company that says it offers a number of options upon request. What do you reckon, do you think 50mm would be too much?

 

The Mina Gallery set is 30mm lower.

50mm would be an awful lot, especially in the front. Personally, I would be worried about stuffing the nose into things or getting high centered on a speed bump.

I worry about that now with slightly sagging stock springs. The oil cooler is out there just asking to get bashed into a curb or steep driveway.

 

That's a good point Charlie, I've had the nose slip over a few kerbs when I've parked, a 50mm drop and it would be a crash, I'll stick with the 25mm. I've also read on the forum that dropping the car down effects the camber quite a lot, enough to cause wear to the inner edge of the tyre.
I'm not actually starting the job till next month but I can see already it's going to cost me a lot of money. Luckily I bought a complete set of Powerflex bushes last year when I wasn't quite so poor.
Thanks both.

 

Here's a little article about cutting springs if anyone's interested.
Cutting Coil Springs - EATON Detroit Spring

 

there is another less well known technique.

it involves compressing the spring and heating in the oven.

on the other hand, apparently it is quite easy in Australia to get springs refreshed professionally where they set the height and re-temper ... all for about $25 a spring.

AutoSpeed - Resetting Springs

Coil Springs

Reducing ride height by "resetting" coil springs - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com

++

 

Cutting and torching springs have long been home brew methods to lower cars. Literally holding a torch to the coils and getting them red and having a couple friends press and hold down the suspension. This started with the hot rodders and the low rider clubs. Don't forget in the 70's it was in vogue to raise the rear end of a car with air shocks, and stuff big tires under it.

Now here's where it get interesting. Most of those springs were linear. They were not progressive (asymetrically wound). So the car maintained some of it's ride characteristics.

You still some of this debauchery. Especially on Fast N Loud. Although they have moved to airbags on most things.

I wouldn't do it on a modern car. Lowering springs can be usually acquired cheaply enough and they are designed for the car.

Take care,

George

 

I have a mix of Mina and S/K springs on my car (they appear identical) I bottom out a lot, I sure wouldn't go any lower. You'll need to shim the rear or your camber will be way off. Once you get the springs on have an alignment done (they'll likely have to slit the front suspension because the optional adjustment screw doesn't go far enough). Once you know how far you are off you can get shims from someplace like Paragon Design (what I did). Be aware that when you remove the camber you may have to mess around with the wheel liner and pull out the fender a tad or you tires may hit if you have gone wide. Stock tires should be OK though.

 

What do you mean by 'slit the front suspension' Rob?
I didn't realise there was so much involved and I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth doing. What I was hoping might be an easy and cheap job looks like it might get expensive, especially if my tyres get trashed, and hitting the stops can't be good. Are you glad that you've done yours?

 

I believe he meant 'slot'. The strut mounting bolt holes get elongated into slots to provide more adjustment.

 

Well that looks easy enough, thanks a lot Mr Cattitude.
I bet a lowered S type would look awesome, have you done yours? It was actually a toss up between the S type and the XK8 as I love the Sweeney villain thing, is that just me?
I'm so glad of this forum, it's got me out of a number of holes over the last year.

 

I have not lowered my S-Type although it would look awesome, I prefer not having to worry about bottoming out over speed bumps and steep driveways, etc.

 

I was forgetting that most of the members were in the States Tommy. After school on a Friday night it was chips and egg and The Sweeney. Was it on the telly over there?
THE SWEENEY - Motors
And here's a video of a lowered Jag.

 

Those pics are a bit deceiving as it shows McPherson strut rather than double wishbone which the XK has but the principle is the same, however I would go the adjuster bolts first from jaguar, you would have to slot the subframe otherwise which would be something I would not be happy with and would make different bolts with a bigger eccentric centre for more adjustment

Buy some lowering springs they are not expensive or if you want to be different weld on some adjuster sleeves

 

Thanks XKRacer.
I'm sorry if I'm asking a silly question but I can't see from this pic where the camber can be adjusted as the top wishbone and lower rear appear to be fixed. Or by adjuster bolts do you mean that there is an adjustable replacement available for the lower rear arm?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...s-wishbone-jpg

 

It's item 12 you are looking at, these varied from the factory some were straight others were eccentric

You need to mark the position before removing just in case, but if you are taking everything apart you would need full 4 wheel alignment anyway to be sure

 

Thanks XKRacer
I've just seen in another thread a mention of this bolt: front lower control arm adjusting bolt it is part # JZB100085
As mine is a 99 XK8 it might not have it. If not is it just a simple case of replacement?
Thanks in advance.

 

Yes...... However may not be simple as you need to drop the rack and that in itself can be a chore but you maybe lucky, you only need to undo the mounting bolts and let it hang, the bolt can then be removed

 

Thanks XKRacer. I have to replace the front subframe as the top wishbone mounting hole is worn, so this won't add much to the job.