Has anyone cut their springs to alter the ride height?
The "I" and "O" are next to each other and hit one and not the other. I had the acentric bolt fitted but it didn't provide enough movement so they had to elongate the slot. The tire place I used once they had the shims for XKRacer had no other problems though I wish I'd thought to have all of the spring and shock mounts and bumper stops replaced at the same time (the rubber parts were pretty much shot). Would have saved a ton of money later.
I'm sorry Rob, I'm lost, what do you mean by I and O?
The car isn't stripped at the moment and I can't imagine which slot can be elongated. If you mean the inner mount of the lower wishbone, isn't this the aluminium subframe? I'll be replacing the subframe next month as the top wishbone is moving because of wear to the top mounts so I don't know if I should be opening up the holes at the bottom. Here's a jpeg of the assembly.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...s-wishbone-jpg
The car isn't stripped at the moment and I can't imagine which slot can be elongated. If you mean the inner mount of the lower wishbone, isn't this the aluminium subframe? I'll be replacing the subframe next month as the top wishbone is moving because of wear to the top mounts so I don't know if I should be opening up the holes at the bottom. Here's a jpeg of the assembly.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...s-wishbone-jpg
Well if you think it's okay to slot the subframe do you think I'm wasting my time replacing it? I'm only doing because the top hole is worn allowing the wishbone to move, if I was to add a thin washer or two it would tighten up properly.
So the question would be is there likely to be any potential movement or slipping of the top or bottom bolts within their slot when they are tightened to within their torque spec.
Seems risky to me when you think about the forces involved, but then I'm not a mechanical engineer.
Seems risky to me when you think about the forces involved, but then I'm not a mechanical engineer.
I don't like the idea much either RaceDiagnostics. I've actually just been trawling the internet for a new subframe, and if eccentric bolts on the lower arms aren't enough to compensate for the camber change bought about by the shorter springs I'll think again. But I can't see a 1" drop will make much difference and a little more camber won't hurt too much I don't imagine, as far as I know it's the tracking that you have to watch more with regards tyre wear.
I have lowered many XKs 1" and not had any probs, I must admit I am more prone to just lowering the back, I would of thought if you went beyond 1" you may have more of an issue but I still would not slot the subframe........
I agree.
Mine is lowered 44mm. It uses the Arden springs and Arden dampers (basically relabeled bilstiens). It has a bit more negative camber than I'd prefer. Especially with the 20" Staggered HRE wheels (which all tuck tire in the fenderwell). But it's ok.

Take care,
George
Mine is lowered 44mm. It uses the Arden springs and Arden dampers (basically relabeled bilstiens). It has a bit more negative camber than I'd prefer. Especially with the 20" Staggered HRE wheels (which all tuck tire in the fenderwell). But it's ok.

Take care,
George
That looks beautiful George and it's reminded me why I want to lower mine.
Mr XKRacer that's interesting about you only lowering the back, as the back of mine looks jacked up, I was thinking the front had just sagged more but maybe that's just the way they are.
Mr XKRacer that's interesting about you only lowering the back, as the back of mine looks jacked up, I was thinking the front had just sagged more but maybe that's just the way they are.
The backs are higher to allow snow chains to be fitted for the US market, not something we really need to worry about here in the UK...... Besides these cars are next to useless in the slightest amount of snow or ice......
Not normally, I do a rough check and if it's too far out I get the alignment done and shim it to how much it needs, Jaguar go up in .5mm increments but do not have a full stock so I now buy the thickest (8mm) and machine down to suit, the ironic thing is the thickest shim is also the cheapest
Thanks XKRacer. I've sourced a subframe on the internet and will make sure that eccentric bolts are at the front when I build it up, and I'll worry about the back if I need to once the alignment and camber have been checked.
Thank you everyone for your help. I'm feeling a lot more knowledgeable and confident about the job now.
Thank you everyone for your help. I'm feeling a lot more knowledgeable and confident about the job now.
Hello again Mr XKRacer
My fingers been twitching above the 'buy now' button tonight, but your quote that 'you're more prone to just lowering the back' has stopped me.
Since you've mentioned about it being jacked up at the back I've been wondering whether to just do the back also.
What I'm wondering about your quote is whether by prone you mean prefer?
And as I'm trying to improve the suspension do you think that leaving the original soft standard front springs would okay?
Thanks a lot.
My fingers been twitching above the 'buy now' button tonight, but your quote that 'you're more prone to just lowering the back' has stopped me.
Since you've mentioned about it being jacked up at the back I've been wondering whether to just do the back also.
What I'm wondering about your quote is whether by prone you mean prefer?
And as I'm trying to improve the suspension do you think that leaving the original soft standard front springs would okay?
Thanks a lot.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
scooternva
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
29
Mar 25, 2025 12:45 PM
Guy-Pierre Boucher
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
7
Sep 16, 2015 05:55 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)










