Under pressure, I have a coolant leak on the passenger side rear of the engine. I've traced it to one leg of the heater multi hose.

Since it connects in so many places, I haven't figured out exactly how to get to all the connections. I also dont seen to hind R & R procedures in my manual.

Have any of you replaced this monster and if so, how difficult is it. It almost looks like it was installed in the factory and it grew-to-fit later.

Thx in advance,

Santa Jay

 

Are you referring to the infamous octopus hose? Pic below.


If so, yeah, I’ve done it and it’s DIY able but I had easier access from below using a local garage’s car lift.

I seem to remember a problem with the new part where I had to modify one of the Norma connectors. Mine is an early 1999 Gen1 XK8, so the part was probably for a later model. No big deal, and happens a lot for me.

 

I replaced it this weekend. If you’re going to be mucking about back there, you should also replace the coolant lines to the throttle body, the ones to the EGR, the 3 other heater core hoses, the valley hoses, and the bypass hose. As yours is an XK8, I think you would have all new hoses if you also include the upper and lower radiator hoses.

You will want to remove the throttle body because you want all the space you can get to change the octopus hose.

Along with the octopus hose, there’s a 3-way connector you should buy because it disintegrates into a million pieces when you try to remove the octopus hose.


If you do decide to do the valley hoses as well, and I think you should, you will also need the intake manifold gaskets as the intake manifold comes off on an NA car. Consider changing the knock sensors as well since they’re right there next to the valley hoses under the intake manifold.

Also, if you haven’t done so yet, since you already have to drain the coolant, changing the thermostat and the water pump is a good idea.

I know it sounds like a long list of parts, but it is worth the peace of mind. Changing only one component of a cooling system is like playing Russian roulette with a fully loaded pistol. The next weakest component will fail.


One more thing, make sure to disconnect and remove the vacuum hoses with care. They are usually brittle and break easily. Pulling the octopus hose out and not removing one will almost certainly result in a broken vacuum line.

 

So how long of a process is this?

I also need to replace the A/C condencer. I had to disconnect it to take the radiator out to back-flush and leak test. The fins are all closed off anyway due to an encounter with some deep snow.

I've seen prices as high as $340 for the octopus hose. Are any of the other hoses you mentioned "special"?

 

^^ What he said. Plus consider replacing the motor brushes in the heater pump as they are a known wear item (with a cheap fix). The pump is otherwise pretty hard to reach, but would be "right there" during this job.

As a temporary fix, if the leak is at the quick-connect Norma end, some have been able to replace the o-ring and get a bit more life out of these old parts...

 

No, the rest of the hoses can be bought for a more reasonable price. In fact, I don't recall paying that much for the octopus with one of our forums sponsors. I think I paid about $140-ish.


On your car, this could be all done in about 4 or 6 hours tops. On my car with the superchager, it was a 2 day job.

 

This is one job that can grow like Topsy.

If you elect for the temporary fix suggested by fmertz for the time being (and the Norma connector doesn't disintegrate when you breathe on it) then plan to do the other stuff sooner rather than later. That way you're at a known good point.
I'd also add changing the crossover pipe (AJ85885) and fitting an aluminium thermostat tower. The latter is so much easier with the intake plenum out of the way.

Cost for the OEM octopus is around $225 so 300+ is OTT.

You can break the job down into smaller tasks to spread the costs, but the single hit approach works out cheapest in the long run.

When you do get to the octopus replacement, watch out for the hidden zip tie under the transmission tunnel once you have all the other connections undone. The job is more tedious than difficult.

Separately, search for RaceDiagnostics' threads on the condenser replacement and heater pump fix - although his is the 4.2 motor and there are detail differences - there are lots of pictures
Do replace the receiver/dryer if the system has been opened.

 

Is the 3 way connector a special part or something I could buy locally?

There isn't a way of snaking the hose under while the throttle body is off?

I've replaced the thermostat and the thermostat housing with the aluminum one and removed, checked and replaced the water pump. (I though the impeller might have been the initial cause of overheating, but it's fine.)

I assume that the vacuum hoses are pretty standard replacement types? I'm planning to replace the 2 overflow plastic lines with either copper or steel and bending them to keep the routing away from other things.

 

I must have not dug deep enough to find it, but heater pump brushes? What manner of animal is this?

 

The heater pump runs all the time when the climate control runs, summer or winter. Over time the carbon brushes of the DC motor just wear out and the pump fails. New pumps are really pricey, but cheap brushes can restore life into the part. There is a GREAT write-up here:

heater-pump-removal-how

 

I've tried to find any mention of the octopus hose Remove/Replace and cant find anything. Also in my Parts Guide there isn't and diagram that shows it.

So do I just start digging into things like a redneck-brain surgeon and find out what needs to come out as I go along?

Seems like it could end up being a career finding/breaking things...ordering them...waiting...repeat as necessary

Anyone know where to find step by step instructions?.

 

OK, Ive removed parts until I can see where the leak was coming from.

Passenger side, Front is down to the right.


Now I'm wondering how I'm going to replace the hose and all its connections when I can only see and or feel 3 of the connections.

Do I have to remove the module in the firewall to get to more?

Also How does everybody remove the intake manifold? They make it seem fairly easy. As I tried, it wouldn't budge in the back. When I got the throttle body off, I can see the throttle body is mounted to a plate. The plate is bolted to the back of the intake manifold [1] and another plate [2] that is bolted to the engine. All of which are covered when the throttle body is still in place.


As a side note, How do those Norma connectors release?

Thanks tor all those who have helped so far.

 

I think what you refer to is a large multipin plug that sits atop the transmission? If so, I believe it's possible to leave in situ but I found that there's more juggling room if it's moved. There's a single long bolt running through it.

Two of the bolts labelled (2) need to be loosened on each side of the inlet elbow:


I've attached TSB 303-48 which may help, although it's thin on pictures. I see you've got the part load breather off without its disintegrating. Quite an achievement!

This one:


has a locking ring that needs to be pushed back towards its main body to release it from the metal pipe, but it's hard to do without breaking the damn thing. The one on the other side needs to be twisted 90 degrees then pulled:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1932330

HTH

P.S. You will need to disengage the fuel line connectors to get the manifold free. You can get the special tools, but I managed fine with a short piece of 15mm plastic plumbing pipe split lengthways.

 

I hope I didn't screw things up too badly, but I just disconnected the two fuel lines as they went into the fuel rail.

 

All right, after getting things out of the way, I now find that the leak WASN'T where I thought it was. It is deeper in the "bowels" of the car than I thought.

It is on top (a bit to the pass side) of the transmission at a connector. I don't see a way to reach it either from the top or the bottom. Was it placed on the assembly line and the car built around it?

I hope the video attached will work. If not, here is a frame of it.
In the pic and video, the front is to the right. It shows the connector leaking.


Rather than replacing the octopus hose and needing to get to other unreachable locations, is it possible to cut the connector off the hose and reattach the hose to the nipple with screw-clamps? (Although I'm not sure how to get to it to do that even of it were possible)

 

Almost certainly put in place before the motor is installed (hence the Norma quick-fits).

Looks like the non-return valve that's in the middle of the octopus:

(pinched from David's picture above)

AFAIK not available separately

That might be my bad, sorry. I've assumed (!) that the connectors are the same on the 4.2.

 

I believe your leak is on the non return valve, also called a check valve in America. A longitudinal split in this plastic is where my 98 showed up. It’s part of the Octupus hose assembly.

Doable job. Easier with the throttle body off. Ditto on replacement of the tee and any other hoses, such as the two hoses under the manifold.

If you remove the intake manifold, access to the back two thermostat housing bolts is a piece of cake. A new thermostat is probably in order as well.

Be prepared for skinned knuckles and a bit of cursing. Clean the metal end of the heater pipe until shiny. Use steel wool. A bit of lube during reassembling helps getting that Norma connector on over a lip in the metal tube.

Good Luck!

ltd

 

I'm still a little fuzzy about how to change a hose that I can't even see or feel all the ends, I see the passenger side Norma connector, and one valley hose connector, but don't even see the other 3 ends.

I can see that getting the manifold out of the way would help with the valley hose. ( I've already fought with the thermostat tower and replaced it) Removing it must magically allow my head to be where I can see and reach through electrical cables and other piping...
I guess I'll find out later today.

I have found one thing that had been had giving me problems. I would frequently get "Bank 1 Lean and Bank 2 Lean" codes. I thought I might have a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter but I found a section of the throttle body mounting gasket missing. I have that on order and possibly will fix that problem.

I suppose I should take solace in the small victories they do add up to bigger ones.

BTW, the wife is hounding me to get this fixed so I can move on to HER list of projects, so has anyone PAID to have this hose replaced? If so, how much?

 

It looks like (7) on the right is leaking for you. Start by moving the coolant overflow bottle out of the way to get more space and locate the various components. (The overflow bottle is sitting on top of that upward-pointing hose near the big left arrow below). That water valve is a bit low on the firewall, driver side, kind of on top of the transmission. That is a challenge to reach and work on. There are hose clamps and not much space to work with, so you need to make some space by removing as few unrelated components as possible. Folks swear by the specialty cable clamp pliers for this job.

I suppose you could just "borrow" the other one-way valve from this setup for a quicker fix, access permitting. (7) on the main loop is for keeping the main loop water flowing the right way in low rpm situations, possibly important. The other (7) is to avoid warm water from going in the heater core by convection (hot cat is nearby) once the engine is stopped.

Diagram:

 

OK, upon FURTHER inspection... I think I have found all 5 ends of the the "Pentapus" (5 legs vs 8 legs) hose! There is one questionable end that I would like confirmation before I start hacking the ends off.

Since the Nooma connectors are too much of a puzzle for me to wrap my little brain around, I know I'm going to brake them before I figure out how they work so ill just cut them apart. I want to make SURE I don't cut something else and cause MORE problems.

Here is what I have found so far:


I see a hose going to the lower control valve (That's what I'm calling it). Am I correct in assuming that that hose is part of the "Pentapus" hose or does the longest leg go somewhere else?

The valley hoses both look to have been replaced and I've already replaced the thermostat tower so, in the interest of not taking off the intake manifold, I'm gonna leave them.