Looks like you're getting there

1) Will likely disintegrate when you try to disconnect it. Once you have separated it from the steel pipe, give the latter a good clean with fine sandpaper or steel wool to give the new connector best chance to seal on there.

2) is part of the octopus.

4) Can be separated by twisting 90° then pulling apart. Alternatively, you can just loosen the worm clamp on the end of the valley hose and disconnect there as it's a good idea to replace the tee-piece anyway (NNE3944BA) since it's plastic and only about $5.

Note that the OEM replacement octopus comes complete with new cobra hose clamps.

 

Excellent !!! This is what I've been looking for.

Now, I can be sure what I'm cutting. I'm going to cut the hoses off the two control valves because even after removing the clamps the hoses are stuck. I don't want to twist too hard and crack the plastic valve body.

I still haven't been able to lay eyes on #2 (Water Pump), but I'll keep looking.

Again this is great. What documentation is this from?.

 

Thanks again for the great diagram. Now I have the old one out and new one installed. I have everything back and no spare parts, but I have to admit there is a mystery vacuum hose and "T".

You wouldn't happen to have a vacuum hose diagram also would you?

This is the "T" and it's location:


and this is the hose that must connect to it, but I can't find where the other end connects!




You have any ideas?

 

I guess congratulations on getting the part load breather hose off without breaking it was a bit premature. In moving things around to get access, it snapped.

I came up with a temporary (knowing me it will not be replaced until it breaks again) repair. It probably has been done better, but it might help someone else get by until they order one.

Place a piece of 1/2" heat shrink tubing on one end and clear silicone both ends of the hose. Use plenty because it needs to fill the notches in the hose so vacuum doesn't leak up the spiral past the patch.


Then slide the heat shrink over the break


Then hit it with a heat gun. I used about 650deg F.

And the final patch looks like this.


It is fairly flexible and certainly heat resistant to engine bay temps. Next time I might put 2 pieces on and shrink one and put the other over that to stiffen it up a bit.

 

This was an awesome post. Thank you for all the responses and OP pictures. I am in the process if considering going there myself. My leak is here. You can ee the drip in the dentist mirror if you can zoom in. And the adventure begins again.




Thank you and cheers,
Mike

 

Some of us have cut out that lousy plastic Norma connector when it starts leaking and replaced it with the appropriately-sized brass hose barb and clamps. Problem solved.....