When I bought my 2005 XK8 about 6 months ago, I knew it had an oil pan as well as a front timing cover leak. I have tried to change the gasket on the oil pan gasket three times and it still leaks. I have also gotten a different oil pan thinking there may be some warping of the original. Same leak. As always, both surfaces were cleaned and no lint or debris left. Gasket was correctly seated and bolts torqued to 11nm and in the correct pattern. Any ideas?

 

Check all mating surfaces for any pit marks or other irregularities. What gasket are you using? Not all of them are of decent quality....

 

The surfaces seemed smooth and clean. The first gasket I used was from Rockauto. I didn't like the way it was formed and it did leak. I don't remember where I got the second one. I'll try to get one from a Jag dealer and see if that makes a difference.

 

You may be better off by using an appropriate tube of RTV sealant. Just be sure to spread plenty of it all around the edges inside the bolt holes and let it set up for at least 15 to 20 minutes before you reinstall the pan....

 

Mine leaks as well, I just make sure to check my oil on a regular basis and keep it topped up. Old cars tend to leak oil. My oil cooler hose leaks as well, I know I need to replace them but the replacement hoses are stupid money these days and are probably ****. I'm probably going to get some custom hoses made, not sure if the connectors are easy to do though?

 

I have thought about using RTV but the groove that the gasket sits in means using a lot of RTV. I would have to fill the channel and then add a layer on top of that. Not sure how that would work.

 

My problem with the leaks is that I can't leave my car in people's driveway when visiting. On my other XK8, I replaced the front timing cover gasket (while doing the chains) and the oil pan gasket. That car did not leak oil after that.

 

keep an eye on it. Mine was just barely showing a small leak. A few days later it blew out 8 quarts of brand new Mobil 1 0w-40 all over the highway in less time than it takes you to read this post.

Z

PS: I agree, stupid money is bad. But feeling stupid is worse. And that’s how I felt after ignoring the issue. Luckily, no engine damage (this time)

 

Will do, it's just that £265 for a 20 year old hose is pretty steep. It's going into a garage in a few weeks for some suspension work but I'm going to get the hose replaced at the same time. They said they would take it off and see if they could get a hydraulic hose comopany to make one up for me which would be ideal. It wouldn't be a problem if Jaguar kept manufacturing parts but since covid they haven't bothered making anything anymore which sucks. I'm sure Jaguar isn't the only company who dropped the ball but it wouldn be good if someone could step in and get them to start up again. Otherwise I fear that it will be the slow death of our cars as parts break with no new replacement parts.

 

Guys, I went thru the same procedures as you only to finally figure out that it wasn't the oil pan at all but the oil filter adapter gasket which mimics an oil pan leak. Easy fix. Tom.

 

^This, I mean the embarassment/mess with friends is one thing, but I daily my car to work and the parking garage at work has a policy about banning cars which leak oil. So I've been pretty assiduous about eliminating all the leaks. Just the power steering pump to do now, but fortunately it doesnt drip actively unless you park for days. So I'm good to take it to work again now lol.

 

There are a few possible sources for an oil leak at the front of the engine that could mimic an oil pan leak. If you have oil cooler hoses there are two oring seals where the hoses enter the engine,,,, and then theres the areas between the soft and hard lines in the hoses themselves. Then, there is a seal under the harmonic balancer (crank seal) at the front of the timing cover - cheap but a devil to get to. Then, there is the looooong seal for timing cover itself - change that when you change the front crank seal. Then, there are to points that need an extra dab of rtv when reinstalling the valve covers that can leak down the front. One, or combinations of any of those things, can appear like an oil pan leak...

btw there are many xk8s w/out oil coolers. You can see the castings holes in the block where others have oil cooler lines but on some cars those areas of the engine of are left sealed/unfinished/uncut. You could just get a long stretch of hose, delete the oil rad and run a long hose out in front of the rad brace, around, then straight back in the other side piped right back into the engine. Save the connection fittings at the engine side, cut the old hose ends off and clamp to them - I would never pay what they ask for those hoses again! That's just me.

Owning an XJS. Oil leaks can make ya wanna tear you hair out. Well, at least a friend's hair, lol...

Oh, and once I think I heard tell of an oil pressure or oil temp sensor leaking and making a mess. All in the same neighborhood - near the pan...

 

My oil temperature gets high enough to activate the oil cooler valve all
the time. Even in the winter the oil is getting into the 230-245 F range.

I’d think long and hard before bypassing the oil cooler. On the XK-8 that’s not being driven much, then fine. But on a XKR or XK-8 that’s being driven hard, even occasionally hard, then disconnecting the oil cooler is going shorten engine life. Just my opinion.

Z

PS using a quality full synthetic oil is going to allow safer higher oil temperatures, just sayin’.

 

Regarding the rebuilding of hoses; I’ve taken my old hoses to a couple of reputable companies that make hoses for many different applications, both high pressure hydraulic applications, and the lower pressure automotive applications.

They both have reservations about re-crimping the metal end fittings at the same location as was originally crimped. The only safe way to reuse the old hose ends is to cut off the original ends where they have been crimped on, and weld on virgin tubing that has never been crimped.

Doing that will eliminate failure of an area that has already been compromised by the original crimp.

Z.

 

Yes, this is all very true. I know for sure that this is the oil pan leaking. I also know that I have a timing cover and front crankshaft leak. Above the rear of the oil pan has been cleaned and when the new gasket is installed, oil pools at the top of the pan but nothing above it. I think I'll wait until I replace the timing and crank seals before I delve into the oil pan again. Then I'll know what I'm really dealing with.

 

Right on, got ya.

 

Once again If your car is a 4.2. Replace the oil filter adapter gasket/seal.

 

When I recently changed my oil pan gasket during a timing gear overhaul, I noticed that some feckless oik had overtightened some of the bolts and the pan was slightly distorted around several of the bolt holes.

So maybe check this if you are removing it again.

I hammered my oil pan straight with a slim piece of hardwood and it’s all good now.

 

I will check into this.