Placing the new seal

The seal is in place

Removed the red protector

 

So I'm thinking to myself, make a dental appointment with Gian and while in the chair get some advice about wrenching my Jag!
what's not to like about that?

(glad you won this battle)
wj

 

Cleaned up the mating surfaces with a wire brush.

 

Using a wire on a seal mating surface is a risky way to prepare the parts for reassembly.

The 3-M Roto loc’s come in many different grade of hardness and will clean a metal surface with no danger of degrading the metal surface.



3M 048011-18730 3M-18730 Roloc Bristle Disc Grade-50, Size-2, Green


Available on Amazon and most parts stores



Z

 

Do use the Jag special tool for locking the crank. Don’t use the special puller. Instead use a universal puller in case you strip the threads because the next size up bolt will not fit the Jag puller. Keep a torch handy, be prepared to have to dismantle more than you initially expected to, and brush up on your expletives.

I actually have a patient that owns a couple E-types that always has some fun Jag conversations with me.

I had never even heard of these. I don’t think the wire wheel degraded my surfaces. There’s no pitting or scratches. I only used the wire wheel on the crankshaft damper. I did not touch the timing cover with it. The damper is made of steel.

 

The reason I had to remove my harmonic damper so many times are looooong and twisted stories and I won't bore ya's with em.

The first first time I did it, I poked something into and thru the holes of the flywheel and inspection port at the bell and evvvver so slightly BENT/KINKED my flywheel. Ticked like a clock forever since (was cured with an engine swap). At that same go round I drove one of the two 8mm bolts used to counterforce the pulley wheel away from the crank right thru the timing cover plate. That had me smiling,,, so happy with my "skills"...

On a later go round, when tightening the damn bolt to the required 8.6million foot pounds, something slipped and the pole I was using to give myself that added million foot pounds caught me RIGHT in the forehead. I was dripping red that day. I just love the damper removal. So smartly designed!!!

Fans OUT for sure. Hood allllllllllll the way up in service position. Water pump off.

Anyways, at the end of it all, today, I just leave everything free. I don't try to "lock" the crank with pins and what have ya. I have had success with a short section of cut serpentine belt wrapped around the pulley, then over that a canvas strap that comes with the LARGEST pipe turning tool I could find online. I add a pole to the handle of the pipe turning tool to stop the crank/pulley from turning/rotating, finding that point by turning the bolt on the crankshaft until the strapped pulley and pole finds a good "catch" and hangs up. With water pump removed the handle of the pipe turning tool with it's extension would finally come up against a stop somewhere in the engine bay. From there, I remove the large 24mm bolt with a breaker and pole - not so easy to do, as it is to say it.

Then the fun part. Threading those counter force bolts into the face of the pulley itself - all knarly and somewhat corroded. The puller tool I ended up finding and like best is the one below. I set it up after dousing things with penetrant, use an appropriate sized socket between the treaded shaft of the removal tool to catch the snout of the crank without damaging the crank threads, and start tightening...

For me, the key has been to get it good and TIGHT, then tap on the face of the pulley wheel with a plastic mallet - then LEAVE it. Come back, tighten some more - tap, tap, tapppp.... Leave it. Come back, tighten and tap. Time between tightening and tapping was the key for me. Eventually it just slides off. Resist thinking a pry bar will help. Ask me how I know. OMG.

I do NOT envy the wrencher that runs into a seized up pulley wheel. It's definitely not for the faint of heart.