How many convertible top hydraulic hoses?
#1
How many convertible top hydraulic hoses?
Sorry, I know there have been many threads on this subject, most of which I have read. Still, I am confused as to the number of convertible top hydraulic hoses necessary to replace them all (2000 XK8). The hydraulic pump has two lines coming into the right side and four into the left side (looking down from the trunk). The bottom right hand side hose closest to the outside rear of the car burst lose from the fitting and on all the lines the covering has cracked and fallen off. The Jaguar Dealer supposedly replaced the lines (plural and pump to latch on receipt) on 08/27/2007 and now says that the line that recently failed was not one that they replaced in 07. I know the lines come in pairs so do I need two pairs? I have seen articles on replacing lines where the line goes across to the driver’s side. Is there a mirror line going to the passenger side? Thanks!
Last edited by dsjohn; 08-02-2013 at 09:32 AM.
#2
As far as I know there are only 2 lines. I have just had mine replaced. I first took it to a classic car repair and restoration shop, but they chickened out - said they were scared of causing collateral damage with all the dismantling required. I then took it to a franchised Jag dealer, took them 4 days!
#3
Sorry, I know there have been many threads on this subject, most of which I have read. Still, I am confused as to the number of convertible top hydraulic hoses necessary to replace them all (2000 XK8). The hydraulic pump has two lines coming into the right side and four into the left side (looking down from the trunk). The bottom right hand side hose closest to the outside rear of the car burst lose from the fitting and on all the lines the covering has cracked and fallen off. The Jaguar Dealer supposedly replaced the lines (plural and pump to latch on receipt) on 08/27/2007 and now says that the line that recently failed was not one that they replaced in 07. I know the lines come in pairs so do I need two pairs? I have seen articles on replacing lines where the line goes across to the driver’s side. Is there a mirror line going to the passenger side? Thanks!
If it was my car I'd change all six - piece of mind and all that.
#4
#5
There is a great deal of reference material on Gus' site: JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Also consider downloading JTIS, the Jaguar reference CD (See the Maintenance thread sticky: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-data-29800/)
Lastly consider upgraded hoses from Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt and Upgraded Convertible Top Cylinders, Pumps, Hydraulic Lines - Top Hydraulics, Inc
Also consider downloading JTIS, the Jaguar reference CD (See the Maintenance thread sticky: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-data-29800/)
Lastly consider upgraded hoses from Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt and Upgraded Convertible Top Cylinders, Pumps, Hydraulic Lines - Top Hydraulics, Inc
#6
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Summerville, South Carolina
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Gus's website has procedures to replace the lift hoses and there are also a few links in the how to's
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
#7
I just did this job last month for the 4 roof ram lines. I'll let you search and find the thread full of info you need (I'm also lazy today). Welcome and good luck.
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#8
OK, received the six hoses today from Top-Hydraulics, looks like I have my weekend plans. Crown Jaguar of Tampa gave me a repair estimate of $1700 for replacing the two sets of lines to the lift cylinders and I paid $1200 for just one of the lines to the roof latch back in 2007. I have to say, little nervous about the whole project. Already had one of the torx screws on the driver's side back speaker strip and have yet to attempt extraction with a screw extractor. So, any last minute advice out there on the endeavor before taking the leap? Thanks!
#9
Getting hosed...
Just did the two latch hoses this past weekend. Here's my suggestions ; have somebody help you, disconnect battery, use caution with any electrical components that are in close proximity, don't freak out when you see your car torn apart, it will all go back together. The guys on this forum will help get you to success...
#10
OK, received the six hoses today from Top-Hydraulics, looks like I have my weekend plans. Crown Jaguar of Tampa gave me a repair estimate of $1700 for replacing the two sets of lines to the lift cylinders and I paid $1200 for just one of the lines to the roof latch back in 2007. I have to say, little nervous about the whole project. Already had one of the torx screws on the driver's side back speaker strip and have yet to attempt extraction with a screw extractor. So, any last minute advice out there on the endeavor before taking the leap? Thanks!
#11
Changing the rear hoses is a fairly simple thing to do, no special tools are needed, just some time and patience. I just did mine, collected some experiences here: Convertible top latch hydraulic problem - Page 28 - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Note the references in text: "The repairs were straight forward with the help of the various forum texts, especially those by Steve.c3h8 (see the reply no. 213 in this thread) and by Gus (see JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource). A big thanks!"
Check those out and you are more than half done!
Jouko
Note the references in text: "The repairs were straight forward with the help of the various forum texts, especially those by Steve.c3h8 (see the reply no. 213 in this thread) and by Gus (see JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource). A big thanks!"
Check those out and you are more than half done!
Jouko
#12
Here's another suggestion,
I actually put down paper in a safe location and as something comes out of the car, I put it on the paper and number it. I even tape down screws and small bits to any larger part they secure or attach to. It's saved me hours of trying to remember, even with photos, where an exact part goes.
Also use this time to really clean any plastic panels, and exposed metal. I use a household cleaner. You'd be amazed how it can freshen up your car once re installed.
I actually put down paper in a safe location and as something comes out of the car, I put it on the paper and number it. I even tape down screws and small bits to any larger part they secure or attach to. It's saved me hours of trying to remember, even with photos, where an exact part goes.
Also use this time to really clean any plastic panels, and exposed metal. I use a household cleaner. You'd be amazed how it can freshen up your car once re installed.
#13
An update - connected the hoses to the lift cylinders. I am still waiting on delivery of hydraulic fluid before testing the system. The cylinder lines were completely void of the protective coat. I have a few questions if anyone would be so helpful to answer.
- Does the different angled connector to the passenger side lift cylinder only required pushing in and placing the clip?
- Is it OK that the hose twists when screwing down the hose connector?
- The roof latch lines replaced in 2007 look to be intact, should I still replace these?
- Is hand tightening the hose connectors sufficient to insure no leaks?
- Does the different angled connector to the passenger side lift cylinder only required pushing in and placing the clip?
- Is it OK that the hose twists when screwing down the hose connector?
- The roof latch lines replaced in 2007 look to be intact, should I still replace these?
- Is hand tightening the hose connectors sufficient to insure no leaks?
#14
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angled connector is just clipped in place. I wouldn't think there would be a lot of twisting when connecting the hose to the ram cylinder, but really didn't have any when I replaced mine.
My latch hoses had recently been replaced as well - so I only did the cylinder hoses - are the latch hoses stainless steel braided or do they look to be factory hoses?
i used a wrench to tighten - just to make sure no leakage
My latch hoses had recently been replaced as well - so I only did the cylinder hoses - are the latch hoses stainless steel braided or do they look to be factory hoses?
i used a wrench to tighten - just to make sure no leakage
Last edited by sklimii; 08-12-2013 at 12:15 PM.
#15
#16
If you lubricate the fitting inside and out(inc.the rubber o ring) with hydraulic fluid it will help prevent the hose twisting - and the fittings just require enough turning with a wrench so that the sealing O ring is pinched down- don't overtighten or else you run the risk of stripping the thread.
#18
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personally if the latch hoses look to be factory - i would replace all (you already have the new hoses) as it is just a matter of time before the green shower appears. Mine I did not replace as they were stainless braided and rated at 15Kpsi. there is plenty of help here to walk you through if you have questions or get stuck.
#19
Next update, received the hydraulic fluid. Thinking of testing the lift cylinder lines and getting the top down before deciding on whether to replace the latch lines that were replace in 2007 by the dealership. Good or bad idea? Also, do I need a new O ring for the pump opening after filling with hydraulic fluid?
#20
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testing and even operating the top should be ok for a period of time. my rationale for recommending replacement was you already have the newer hoses and if the dealer installed hoses are factory design, they do not have the same ratings as the newer hoses you received from top hydraulics and you could be faced with the dreaded green shower.