As promised, here's the video on how to remove the fuel tank and fuel pump. Many thanks to Avos for inventing the tool that makes it easy to release the fuel line where it goes into the fuel tank. Without that this job would have been much more difficult. And thanks to Maxwdg and his lovely wife for figuring out how the check-valve works and helping me over the phone.

Jaguar XK8 Fuel Pump Replacement - YouTube

 

Wow Sam, there's nothing you won't tackle. Did it start up?

 

You've outdone yourself, Sam. Great job.

Wondering about something: is there any chance of getting to the pump with the tank in place by cutting through the floorboard in the area behind the rear seats. (It seemed from the video like that's about where the pump ends up when everything is put back in. I can't go look at my own car; she's run off with it for the day.)

 

There is a bunch of sheet metal above the tank, so you'd have to cut through sheet metal. It's not that difficult to remove the tank once you've made the special fuel line release tool, so I don't think it would be worth cutting sheet metal to access the pump. Plus, the opening into the fuel tank is near the rear of the tank, so I think there would be some interference with the part of the body near the rear window. In other words, don't do it.

 

Rev:

There should not be a statute of limitations on engineers. The Jag design engineer on this fuel tank connection did a criminal act when he hid the connectors above the differential. Obviously the factory installed the tank and fuel lines prior to installing the rear end.

My hat's off to you for tackling this project on jack stands. It's a job that's much easier done on a lift, where you can better move around. Most mechanics use a long, skinny screwdriver to push the fuel injection tool. I'm also glad someone's figured out a better "tool" to do the job. I could barely touch the fuel line with long skinny fingers.

My local mechanic has done a few Jag fuel pumps, and it was worth his 2.7 hrs. base rate labor @ $50 per hour to do this job and a new fuel filter.

Thank Goodness that the earlier models used a Ford Taurus fuel pump that's less than $100 @ Autozone/Advance, or less than $60 @ RockAuto.com. A $750 OEM fuel pump on the later model units is another engineering crime.

Good job on the video.

 

I was thinking that, too. It seems like it would have been pretty easy to route the fuel line so it enters the tank over on the left side where it can be disconnected from inside the trunk. Or they could have put an opening behind the back seat to allow the fuel pump to be removed without removing the tank. I had a Subaru that had an opening like that.

 

Sam you did a great job. Sure hope I don't have to do that. But if I do I have a great video to follow. The real crime is the engineers, and I are one, did a crappy job with the design of the check valve fuel pump combination. That engineer should be unemployed.

EZDriver

 

Sam, is there any access from the inside, under the seat, where a second person could help jockey the fuel tank out for access of the pump? Been a long time since I had the back seat out and I forgot what it looks like under there. Jack

 

I don't think so. I've never had the seat back out of the car, but I'm pretty sure there's a big chunk of sheet metal there. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

At one time I was actually considering cutting into the tank from right there. I have a little experience working with sheet metal, and I figured I could pretty easily cut a circle out of the tank and fabricate an access hole cover. But then my hero, Avos, invented a superior fuel line removal tool, and I didn't need to resort to metal mangling solution.

 

Rev, It was fun watching your video - having done exactly what you were doing (also on jack stands) just last month. I pulled my tank completely out. Perhaps I didn't need to. As a matter of fact pulling it completely out is what caused me to break off the fuel door solenoid latch in the process (yes, I'm the numb nuts that the Rev was referring to when (in the video) he said that a member had warned him to be careful around that solenoid assembly - thanks for not naming names Reverend!)

I laughed when you talked of the trunk mat getting in the way of the fuel port on the bottom of the tank, preventing you from being able to insert the fuel line. Yes, that happened to me also....

The engineers should STILL be writing sentences on a giant chalk board for this ridiculous design.

I will not design an easy to predict and pah-fukken-thetic problem into a $85,000 car ever again.

I will not design an easy to predict and pah-fukken-thetic problem into a $85,000 car ever again.

I will not design an easy to predict and pah-fukken-thetic problem into a $85,000 car ever again.

I will not design an easy to predict and pah-fukken-thetic problem into a $85,000 car ever again.

 

Sam information is power and lack off it it as my wife says makes your an ***. prior to your video i attempted the same operation that left me stumped, when the tank didnt come out because of the fuel lines we forced it it out , i retreieved a funny looking o clamp w legs, on my tank is 2 hole and a metal pipe coming out the left port. from your description their is only one hose coming into the tank. but i never got underneath the car to find the fuel lines. or read anything prior to a disconnecting clamp. Pls advise i might needa walkthrough from the bottom up.

Sam thank you for all the operations trial and error build confidence , i thought it was time to go to dealer

 

Great job Rev. That is a useful video. But... That poor Rolex... Dude take it off before you snarf it to death.

 

That infortunately does really help a whole lot concidering i have duel tanks an it appears to b more complex than that ans some videos i see skip quit alot it seems or i. Missing something lol

 

I realize this thread is, like, 12 years old ... but if you are still monitoring this, and you remember, can you advise how you get it all the way out? I am at the point where I've pulled it back far enough to access the pump, but I need to completely remove the tank for rust cleaning / treatment / sealing. (The car has been sitting for about as long as this thread... lol)

Anyway, it feels like it catches on something, but I don't see anything preventing pulling it all the way out - nervous about using too much force and breaking something hidden in the back perhaps.

Or was it a matter of supporting it underneath with boards (as I've read elsewhere?) Thanks in advance!

 

Did you disconnect the fuel line(s) underneath the tank?

 

@Jon89 Yes, I managed to get them both off with the help of a quick-release tool, a long screwdriver, a paint stirring stick, some bailing wire (for pulling the line) and a few newly-invented swear words...

I did that yesterday, and managed to pull it back enough to access the pump - pretty much exactly as in the video above - but it doesn't seem to want to pull any further.

 

The filler neck end needs to get pulled out first. Just angle the tank out and onto some boards across the spare wheel.

I usually spray some silicone spray on the floor under the tank to help it slide back into place when I am reinstalling.

 

Thanks, all, for the help! Here's the tank, fully removed.

I took a close-up of the fuel line clips, for others' benefit to see exactly what you're dealing with; you really gotta get the tool lined up right so it doesn't miss any of those four prongs. Maybe the Jaguar tool is better suited, but I had one of the cheap ones with two halves basically, that snap around the line.

Further questions:
1 - I didn't see a cover plate on FCPEuro or Amazon; is this possible? If not, how have others dealt with the burnt connectors? They are also green / heavily oxidized & I worry about connectivity here. Would rather not splice wires but may go to that if I have to.
2 - Any advice on best method for cleaning out the rusty mess in the tank?
3 - Best quality replacement? I would like to get as close to OE as possible. FCP has one, but it's generic & I'm not sure of the mfg. reputation.


Yoink! Up-n-out

Can I possibly source a replacement cover? If not, how have others refurb'ed the burnt connector(s)?

Close up of those dastardly retaining clips - note there are FOUR freaking prongs!

Old Crusty - again, with the burnt connector questions

 

Just to get the correct terminology for parts search..............................
The fuel lines snap into 'STUFFER PINS' and the EVAPORATIVE FLANGE is what you need for the burnt connector.

 

This is totally misleading and unnecessary. I cannot tell if its a coupe or soft top but if its a coupe you just remove the rear parcel shelf which exposes the top of the tank via the speaker hole and then cut the shelf towards the front on each side and peal back the metal.
Access is easy ..you are in there in 15 min.