My "loving" husband has basically destroyed my 1997 XK-8. He left it under trees, uncovered, destroying the paint. He promised me he was keeping it charged. He wasn't. The window cracked open, rain got in, the carpeting is molded. I can't even get it open to put the trickle charger on it. Last time it was run, he said it was overheating, despite having enough fluid, and the temp gage was indicating way too high. Of course, I can't even check under the hood right now. Why didn't I check on it myself, you might ask, and that's a very good question. I'm disabled, and trusted him.

I loved this car, and now I feel like I have to scrap it. Does anyone have any advice?

I'm pretty much beside myself at this point.

 

Googled getting into the trunk to charge it. It's on a trickle now, so at least it will run enough for me to be able to try to figure out whether it's a gage issue or actually overheating.

 

Ooblick,

I've moved your thread from USA - Mid Atlantic Region to XK8/XKR forum. Sounds like you'll be needing advice from members here with the same model.

Graham

 

Oh boy - is he going to suffer for the rest of his miserable life ..... I can just imagine him waking up to find he's hanging by his ..... Oh sorry (mind wandered off there!)

Get it going and report back on the temperature. Probably just the thermostat and not difficult/expensive.
Then get him a buffing kit (rotary buffer) and some polishing soap - the paint may recover as it's probably only the lacquer that's discoloured.
And he can lick the carpets clean once you get the doors open!

 

It may be the thermostat, or it may be the water pump. No matter which, running the engine to see if the temp. gauge indicates overheating is just asking for a disaster.

The gauge will read mid scale to about 235 deg, then suddenly begin a rapid climb into the red. If the thermostat is stuck closed, not uncommon with the V8, or the water pump has failed you could easily lose the engine or at least blow a head gasket.

There are many apps available for smart phones that will allow you to plug an adapter into the OBDII plug and measure real time temperature, or maybe you know someone with a code reader to do the same.

Be prepared for a fuel pump failure also, not uncommon on a car that's been unused for a while.

If it does run and not overheat, have the secondary chain tensioners been upgraded? Another potential source of severe engine damage.

 

Thanks, folks. I'm a bit nervous to run it now without adult supervision. I'll look around for an app I can use on my iPhone or work phone (android) and see what I can come up with. I seem to have enough problems without worrying about blowing anything else up on the poor car.

Unfortunately for the paint, I did have it buffed and it was going to need some work on some of its parts. Now, however, it looks like it's going to take a full repaint. I'm not looking forward to this.

I may have to start looking for replacement carpeting at this point as well.

I am SO not amused.....

 

By the time you get a inexpensive but not trash paint job, carpets, and who knows what for the engine, you will have spent enough to buy another XK8. I'm not trying to talk you out of fixing the car, just being realistic.

There are many members using phone apps for analytics. Hopefully they will join in with some suggestions. I only have a basic cell and can not help.

 

If you have a droid phone get the Torque app from the app store and the ELM adapter off of eBay, between both you spend about 12 bucks. It is a 1997, I would assume you have no idea if the water pump is orig or a replacement so I would put another on it and a new tstat. They are cheap parts so may as well change them out and they are really easy to fix. These will fix the over heating if they are shot.

 

The plastic thermostat housing will probably crack due to age. Replacing with aluminum is a good idea, several sources including Welsh Enterprises and forum sponsor sng barratt. But I don't know how much you want to spend until you find out if the engine is undamaged.

 

I think we are getting carried away here. As far as we know the car temp gauge was reading high - that's not the same as blasting out clouds of steam and blue smoke (when the engine damage is likely to occur). In fact it seems that the coolant level was fine from the info given.

All the suggestions are good ones (things that we all have done to our cars), but maybe not necc before starting the car up. If it were me I'd open the bonnet, start the car, keep an eye on the gauge and a hand on the top hose into the rad. When the gauge reaches half scale the top hose should get hot as the thermostat opens. If it doesn't, turn it off (quickly) and replace the thermostat.

 

Good point, Jim. A failed water pump will also cause overheating, but that's not as common as a stuck thermostat on the V8.

Probably all the original pumps on the '97's have been replaced by now, but they were failure prone so it's still something to consider.

 

Thanks. I will try the hose heat thing. I do appreciate all of the advice. I do know it will cost me a lot to fix the care back to the point I'd want it. If the engine is mostly ok, I'll do the paint and interior. If it isn't, I'll have to likely get rid of it.

 

Hi again folks. Thought you might like to know that I was finally able to get my poor little car towed to a dealer for an inspection. I'm wondering about a few things and would appreciate any pointers.

The car had been sitting for a very long time. I'm not surprised at some of the items. They've determined that the brakes need replacement, front and rear, pads and rotors, and a fluid exchange. That is something I need to do. They're talking 771.00 for the front, 819.50 for the rear, and 156.50 for the fluids. I haven't had a car in for non warranty service for so long, that I'm not certain about those prices. I'm also not certain about the abs tranction light on, reporting error c1095. From my little bit of research, I'm wondeirng whether or not that could be something that would resolve itself with the brake/fluid replacement, or checking the fuses. There's a line item on my estimate for $685.00 but it doesn't say whether they would be replacing the HCU for that.

Next is the coolant system. They recommend an engine coolant service for $226. I have no doubt that it is needed. They've marked as option but highly recommended, replacing the thermostat, gasket and water pump for $802. They report that the thermostat is sticking closed, and the water pump is clogged and weak. Would replacing the fluids and flushing the system possibly also take care of the sticking and clogged pump? $226 for the coolant service.


They also say that the drive belt is cracking, and want to replace it for $318.00

Last but not least, the headlight seals are sticking out. They want 411 to remove the headlights and reglue the seals. Is this something I can do myself? The third brake light cover came off, and they say that the part is no longer available, and recommend I use glue to replace it, or they'll do it for 68.00 :-).

Interior, we've taken care of most of the problems with the carpeting inside through cleaning it. I may need a new seat cover on the driver's side. And I will definitely need to repaint as I can.

I'm looking for a sanity check. What do you think? Am I crazy to bother with any of this for a 1997 car (but only 35k miles).

 

Most of those prices are on the high side, but probably not unusual for a dealer. I did head math to add up your estimate and got $4256. This is before any cosmetic work is done. At this cost, you'd be better off buying another car.

Suggest you get a 2nd opinion from an independent mechanic. Most of those items are not specific to Jaguar, so while a Jag indie is recommended, it may not be required. Much cheaper if you are able to do any of the work yourself.

It being a 1997 (miles at this point are irrelevant) and needing paint might just be the deciding factor. Sell it as-is and put the money towards a running newer model may be a realistic option if you cannot do most of the work yourself.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Oh boy those prices are high! For my opinion -
Forget the brakes for now - if they work leave them alone 'cos they can wait.
As Mike says - go to an 'ordinary' jobbing garage or a Jag independent garage and get the thermostat and water pump changed. They cost pennies. They can backflush the system whilst the hoses are off. If the thermostat tower is plastic get them to fit a metal one - also very cheap.

The drive belt needs replacing (but it's not like an ordinary car where belt failure destroys the engine.)

Get it done as cheaply as possible (so it's running), then decide whether to keep, or sell. As a non-runner you'll have to give it away.
PS - when does hubby come out of hospital?

 

Hubby is doing quite a bit of home improvement work at the moment...under duress :-)

The brakes are really bad. They hardly work at all. With all the sludge in there, I don't think that driving it would be a good idea at all. Maybe I should ask the dealer to make me an offer.

 

The only way sludge appears in braking systems is if water has got in. I wonder if the brake servo has failed. You need a second opinion - but that might involve moving/driving it and you might not want to do that.

My local Jaguar Main Dealer (in England) had his license to operate revoked because he was a crook. He was 'creating' work - but only with female customers! Your dealer might be hoping you will ask for an offer. Be interesting to see how quickly it appears in the showroom and what he wants for it. I bet it takes less than a week!

 

Unfortunately, Jim, the car was sitting for a very long time. I was told that it was being exercised. It wasn't. The paint is destroyed by tree sap. Its all a very sad tale of trusting someone with something that I should have followed up on myself. This particular dealer is really well thought of in the area. I looked up some comparisons, and the car MAY be worth 4k as is. However, with the plant the way it is, I'd be surprised to get 2k for it. I'm really sad about the whole thing. We towed it in, we'd have to tow it back. Yet more expense. I'm pretty heartsick over the whole thing as I've had this car since day 1 of its life, and babied it (hence only 35k miles).

 

Well - what's happened has happened and now you must deal with it. To my mind your only mistake was taking it the Jag Dealer. They are good - but incredibly expensive. In the UK they aren't used by private owners much, they generally service fleet and company cars.

Asking for an offer is one solution (the easiest but most painful I suspect). In the UK we would ask a local small garage with a tow truck to collect the car and do their own assessment. It's important to get it out of the main dealer's yard because you can't afford to pay more than the car is worth to repair it. Or, spend the money and bring it home - then you can think about it.

 

This is all very sad, but the advice to move on is the best option. If you spend a lot of time on the forums you will find that the dealers are the last choice in maintaining older Jags. They replace rather than rebuild modules and use new parts where used will work. And the markup on OEM parts is a killer.

You would probably come out best if you had the brakes serviced by a independent shop and then sell the car on ebay or craigs list. Don't worry about the C1095 code, that's a fairly easy soldering job.

If I were closer I would be glad to help, as I have done for a couple of other owners in my area.