Hi everyone....
I have encountered a problem that I created myself.....To Start, I own a 2000 XKR convertible with 52K on it. I recently had a misfire code come up after starting the car.....p0304 along with p1313 and p0354...figured an open coil.....to make sure I swiitched the discrepant coil to a different cylinder to make sure it followed the coil. Which it did. I got the restricted performance warning, but it went away after the eng warmed up, so I took it for a ride. ran fine, until I went to start it after cooling down. The second time I started the eng, I got several codes for bothe the # 3 and #6 cylinder coil misfire along with the associated codes. p0300,p0303,p0306,p1316,p1313pp1314,p0353,p1111... .. So figuring that the engine bay gets quite hot I ordered a whole set of coils and plugs to replace due to age. The coils that came in the mail looked exactly like what I have, and they were supposed to be for the 4.0L eng....including supercharged.. But after installing new plugs, and coils, the eng would crank but not light off. So I checked the new coil against the old one, and found that they did not ohm out the same, in fact the ohms were totally different values for the given pins....
So I reinstalled the old coils but kept the new plugs in, and the engine still just cranks but does not start. My question is, could I have damaged a relay or fuse or even an ecm by trying to start the car with the wrong coils units? When I first started the eng with the new coils, it sputtered for about 5 secs then stalled....any insight would be greatly appreciated.
thank you

 

I’m sorry it can’t offer any substantial help. But to help the rest of us, could you mention the brand of your replacement coils ?

I for one would not care to purchase the brand of coils that did not spec out the same as the original factory coils.

Z

 

They were made in china……didn’t see that on the website. Brand is mostplus. Do not purchase.
thks zray

 

Most probably you have damaged the ignition control modules fitted left and right on the bulkhead. these do the switching of the coils and if the resistance was too low ?? would burn out the switching components.

 

Clear the codes, including pending & historical faults and try a hard reset and hope the ECM forgets its problems. If the Check Engine light comes back on, maybe you'll get a better idea with new codes.

You might try adding a battery charger to bump up voltage before turning the key back on & restarting. A whole laundry list of codes smells like low battery voltage.

The 2000 does not have the two ignition modules on the firewall; ignition modules are built into each coil. What years were the new coils advertised for? The pre -'99 model year were different and needed the external modules.

 

If it's not firing at all, check F18 (10A) in the engine compartment fusebox, as it feeds all the coils via the ignition coil relay.

+1 on zray's advice. Avoid cheep n' cheezy coils like the plague.

 

+2 on zray's advice. Don't ever use cheap coils. Nothing but trouble.

Michaelh - Is Cheep N' Cheesy some kind of pizza place over your side of the water?

 

Thank you Michael,
the fuse you called out was in fact blown. Learned a lesson with coils. Gonna order the correct ones. Thanks for everyone’s input.

dave

 

Thks for the advice jrnsr,
will reset if need be, after replacing the fuse that was no good. Cleared all codes. Finding the correct coils and yes I always have the battery charger connected while in the garage. Thks again, this forum and its members are the best

 

LOL - cheap & cheesy = rubbish, poor quality. Something I heard as a kid.

Could be a fast food outlet with an egregious sense of humour, I guess

 

The 2000 MY engines are AJ27 and the 4 pin ignition coils have the 'control-modules' built into the units. (no separate modules in the false bulkhead)
Your AJ26 2 pin coils have the separate 'control-modules' bolted to the false bulkhead.

The AJ27 controls are integral within the ECM.(hence the 4 pins)