Hello All!

I do not have this problem (and hope I never do) but I read the whole thing because I absolutely LOVED the camaraderie!

 

Hello Everyone.

Just when I thought it was safe to go back into the water ...

I have been ecstatic driving my XKR, top down, in the beautiful Florida weather for three weeks.

THEN IT HAPPENED AGAIN.

This morning, I removed the key from the ignition, and the beeper sounded. I replaced the key, wiggled it a bit, and removed the key again. All OK.

I restarted the car. All OK.

When I removed the key, the dashboard remained lit, even with the key in my pocket.

So I tried to reset the inertia switch. No joy. No clicks.

Disconnected battery and tried resetting the inertia switch again. No joy.

When this happened a month ago, I could clearly hear a click when I reset the inertia switch. This time nothing.

My educated guess is that the inertia switch has failed, cannot be reset, and my dialogue with you across 11 time zones is rekindled.

Any suggestions or thoughts for the frustrated in Florida? Very respectfully, Bob G.

 

Hello Everyone. Success ????

There are few rewards in life better than driving a Jaguar Convertible in the beautiful Florida sunshine, 82F and gentle breeze.

As many of you have been following, I am very frustrated since I have not been able to get the car started.

Today was the day.

Removed the lower fascia (again), disconnected many connectors, and re-connected the battery. I heard the old, now familiar click. It was coming from the left driver's fuse box under the fascia cover. Off came the cover (again). As I tapped the inertia switch with the back of a screwdriver, it clicked, and the dashboard lights went off. Before I could celebrate, they were back on again.

Unable to open the car door sufficiently to gain access to the mounting screws, I had to back the car out of the garage. Key back in, ignition on, shifted into N. Gently pushed the car backwards (garage has a drainage slope) and it moved. When it was far enough, locked the handbrake, could not remove the key (it was not in P), and went for the battery. Could not open the trunk, since the key was in the ignition in N.

Went inside for my backup key, opened the trunk, disconnected the battery.

Removed the inertia switch. YEA. With a shake, I could hear the ball rattle, and I was able to fully press the top to reset (once the ball was properly seated).

Ordered a replacement part, scheduled for Friday (5 business days).

Now to get the car back into the garage.

Tried releasing the handbrake, but it only re-started rolling backwards.

Then an idea. Plugged the reset inertia switch into its socket, reconnected the battery, and STARTED the car. Drove the 20 feet forward (hooray).

OK. It's parked. The original part is in my hand, and a replacement part is on order.

I think this is a resounding success, and would not have been possible with the patience guidance and suggestions/help from you wonderful people.

Much happier in Florida today, Bob G.

 

Sounds like you have found the culprit.

 

Hello Ken in Australia, Michael in Jersey, Channel Islands, Truck Graphics in Maryland, and others.

Finally got to drive my Jaguar Convertible in the beautiful Florida sunshine. It is 82F, sunny, and gentle breezes today.

About two hours ago, my local mail carrier delivered the replacement inertia switch. It didn't rattle like the failed one. Off to the garage, popped it in, two screws, connected the battery, and the car started immediately. What a beautiful roar.

Asked my wife to join me and we went to a long ride in the country side, top down, and no traffic.

Each of you made this possible. Six months ago I never would have attempted the troubleshooting or repair. Just would have towed it to the local garage, left the keys, and hoped for the best. My wife is ecstatic. She said she knew I could do it, but the truth is you daily gave me the encouragement, schematics, and explanations. Please come to Florida where there is no winter and be our guests.

Very respectfully, and thrilled to be able to drive the convertible again, Bob G.

 

Great news Robert.

Spend a tiny bit of all the money you saved at the dealership on one of these ............

 

Hello Ken in Australia, Michael in Jersey, Channel Islands, Truck Graphics in Maryland, and others.

Today was not a good day.

Drive the XKR to do some errands. When I came out, could not start the car. Same conditions as a month ago, except a new inertia switch.

Without tools, took me an hour to bang on the inertia switch to get the ball to drop and allow a manual reset. Then the car started right up.

Something has caused the switch to fail. It is about as simple an item as could be. A metal ball sits in a socket. If jarred, it dislodges and the switch set to the opposite condition, removing power from most power relays. When reset, the ball rests comfortable in the socket, and the plastic reset switch can be pressed to reset the switch so that power goes to the proper power distribution relays.

We understand causes the problem, and how to fix it, but we do not know why the switch resets.

I'm tempted to replace the inertia switch with a simple jumper.

As before, all suggestions and ideas are very welcome.

 

Hi Bob in sunny Florida

I've been sidetracked with DIY challenges this week so missed your latest battle with the Jaguar gods...

I doubt the switch is your problem - it's an all-plastic construction so there's nowhere really for it to short to ground. More likely, you have jiggled the wiring again by the R&R of the switch and temporarily cleared the short

So I'm clear - when she doesn't start, do you still have the lights on with the key out?

 

Hello Michael. I wish I could help you with your DIY projects. I can't seem to get to mine.

OK. The car is running perfectly. Go to the store. Park car. When I turn key from RUN to off, the inertia switch pops. Exactly same condition as before, but with NEW inertia switch. Several dashboards lights lit, even with key in my pocket. Cannot restart.

So so now I am much smarted, thanks to you, Ken, and others. Pull driver side fascia cover, try to reset inertia switch. No joy. Tap with back of screwdriver. Clearly hear ball rattle. Have no other tools with me. Only can disconnect connector or tap on sensor.

After about an hour, ball relaxes and drops. Reset top. Dashboard light go out. Car immediately starts.

Absolutely repeatable. Condition: sometimes when turning car ignition off, inertia switch fails. No bumps, bounces, or other physical events. New switch. Once switch settles, generally by tapping, internal ball drops into socket, switch can be reset, and car starts.

So, what if I jumper the connector and eliminate the switch altogether?

 

Hello Michael and others following.

Of course you are correct. In fact, you have always been correct.

Today I spliced a three-wire extension between the inertia switch socket and harness. This allowed me to extend the location of the inertia switch outside the driver's side fascia fuse box to a far more accessible location (see photo).

As soon as I completed the last connection WU to WU (ground to ground) it immediately lit up the dashboard without a key in the ignition. This is the normally failed condition. Frustrated, I banged on the steering wheel lower fascia covering. The dashboard lights went out. I inserted the key, and was able to immediately start the car.

Without question, just as you said several times, the fault is in the ignition switch or one of the wires immediately emanating from the ignition switch. Since I already know the fault (SOMETIMES) triggers when the key is rotated from run (2) to off (0), the fault is most logically in the ignition switch, and not external wiring.

So, anyhow, I have a work around solution ... keep a hammer in the car to beat on the steering wheel fascia each time the ignition gets stuck in the (1) accessory position.

Your thoughts please?

Much happier with a work around solution, Bob G in Florida

(oh, by the way, we have a scheduled cold front coming ... it is supposed to drop down to 45F at midnight before rebounding to the 70F range.)

 

Here are the photos I forgot...

 

Here are the photos I forgot.



extended hardness to inertia switch socket




Temp location for inertia switch

 

Hi Bob,
You certainly picked the worst kind of fault

Anyway, - a clue:
This doesn't tell you which side of the inertia switch the short is, but it does demonstrate the 'divide and conquer' approach. When the fault appears again, then armed with your DVM and the switch unplugged, look for a voltage on the blue/white and red/green wires at the switch socket (pins 1 and 3 respectively).

You could also try wiggling the foam and tape protected cable shown in your pic to see if that has any effect?

I'll pull the old girl out of the barn tomorrow and take some measurements so I better understand what's expected there.

Intermittent faults are like dentists and toothache, I'm afraid. Go easy with the hammer

edit: For completeness' sake, check also on pin 2 (Green/Blue)

 

I don't think that I can add anything to this discourse as you already know the troubleshooting procedures, Mr. Grisar. However, your troubles remind me of the solution to a malfunction with the E-type I once owned (1962 E-type convertible, bought used for $1,250, sold for $2,000 aaaarrrrggghhh). The carburetor float bowls would occasionally stick, pouring fuel onto the ground and causing the electric fuel pump, aka float electronic warning system - FEWS - to run continuously. To alleviate this problem, I always carried a small precision hammer to bang on the carburetors. Worked every time.

 

Dear Truck Graphics, Michael, David and others. Thank you for all the help this year. Merry Christmas to you and your extended families.

Bob G.

 

And a Merry Christmas to you and yours too, Bob.

Best wishes,
Mike

 

Dear Truck Graphics, Michael, David and others.

FINALLY SOLVED.

A three weeks ago the 01 XKR ignition failed. I tapped the dashboard and the dash board lights went off.

Five days later I tried to start the car. Stone Dead. OK. Disconnected battery, connected small charger. Eventually battery held full charge. Guess what -- dashboard lights were on without a key.

OK. Here's what happened. After parking car and tapping off the ignition lights, they must have come on during the night, and stayed on until the battery drained.

So I again disassembled the dashboard fascia and lower cowling. Located and found the ignition switch. Removed same. Just like Michael said, the wire colors were identical to those on the inertia switch. The switch has shorted position 1 and 2 permanently to ground.

Ordered a new switch. Received today. Installed same. Put dashboard and all hanging wires back together. Connected battery. EUREKA. Car started right up.

HOORAY !!!!

Brought old switch into house. Disassembled same. Found internal ball bearing out of position. Found evidence of burnt contacts.

Appears the ignition switch was the culprit all along. It had permanently shorted positions 1 and 2 to ground, without regard to key position (or absence). Easy fix. Maybe 20 minutes (I'm slow).

So, it was the ignition switch all along. And for US$100 including shipping, all is well. Driving again in Florida, convertible top down, 75F.

Thank you all for your continuous help solving this failure from afar.

Very respectfully,
Bob G.