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Interior lights won't work

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Old 04-27-2011, 05:03 PM
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Default Interior lights won't work

I have a 2000 XK8 convertible that has been trouble free for 10 years, until now. First had the famous hydraulic leak from the latch hoses. Had that fixed, but now my interior lights, glove box light and trunk light don't work at all. The steering wheel won't move up or down either. The 15 amp fuse that is protecting the Body Processor blows immediately when replaced. I thought it might be the processor itself and I was lucky enough to find one on ebay, same ID and all, at a reasonable price, so I got it and installed it and the fuse blew again. Lights still don't work and now, neither will the top. I went back to the original processor to get the top back. Now, I am stymied and in need of a plan...
 
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:42 PM
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Did the lighting problem start immediately after the hose replacement?

If so, I am guessing that when the roof console and top of windshield headliner was removed and replaced a wire got shorted to the body, perhaps through a screw or clip. My guess it is the 'illumination enable' wire which is red and white and runs in that area and would cause most of the symptoms that you describe. To inspect you will need to pull out the roof center console (it pulls straight down). If that does not reveal anything, I would proceed to the remove the headliner over the windshield. This would require removing the A-pillar trim and the screws retaining the visors and visor clips.
 
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Old 04-28-2011, 06:19 AM
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Thanks, I will try that. I just noticed the problem after the fix, but not sure it was ok before that....H
 
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
Did the lighting problem start immediately after the hose replacement?

If so, I am guessing that when the roof console and top of windshield headliner was removed and replaced a wire got shorted to the body, perhaps through a screw or clip. My guess it is the 'illumination enable' wire which is red and white and runs in that area and would cause most of the symptoms that you describe. To inspect you will need to pull out the roof center console (it pulls straight down). If that does not reveal anything, I would proceed to the remove the headliner over the windshield. This would require removing the A-pillar trim and the screws retaining the visors and visor clips.
Disaster...I ran out of fuses, so I made a circuit breaker by soldering wires to a blown fuse and connecting the wires to a 15amp circuit breaker. I tested it and it popped as it should. Then I disconnected the wiring cable going to the overhead light console and reset the circuit breaker. It did not pop. I was congratulating myself when all hell broke loose. The windshield wipers started up, the headlight washers turned on, the horn stared blowing, none of the buttons on the key fob would work... I opened the trunk with the key and disconnected the battery. The battery cable was very hot. My guess is that my circuit breaker idea was a loser and it didn't pop in time to prevent the body processor from cooking. That may be a $2000 mistake.....H
 
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Harryk
Disaster...I ran out of fuses, so I made a circuit breaker by soldering wires to a blown fuse and connecting the wires to a 15amp circuit breaker. I tested it and it popped as it should. Then I disconnected the wiring cable going to the overhead light console and reset the circuit breaker. It did not pop. I was congratulating myself when all hell broke loose. The windshield wipers started up, the headlight washers turned on, the horn stared blowing, none of the buttons on the key fob would work... I opened the trunk with the key and disconnected the battery. The battery cable was very hot. My guess is that my circuit breaker idea was a loser and it didn't pop in time to prevent the body processor from cooking. That may be a $2000 mistake.....H

I unfortunately agree, circuit breakers generally respond more slowly than standard fuses. Do you still have the spare BCM ?
 
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
I unfortunately agree, circuit breakers generally respond more slowly than standard fuses. Do you still have the spare BCM ?
Yes, I do. The part number on the replacement BPM is the same as the original with a suffix of XXX. The suffix on the label in my trunk is 163, and when I call dealers about the part, they need my suffix. And, I am sure I still have the short...Harry
 
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Old 04-29-2011, 06:51 PM
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check the wires that go to the visor clips. the lights in the mirrors in the visors get their power from the retaining clips that hold the visors in place. the clips are held to the header by a single phillips screw. it is easy to pinch the wire when installing the clip, and if it gets pinched it can ground to the body and blow the fuse you speak of. how do I know this? I did it once. to check it remove the screw and pull the clips from the header and inspect the wires.
 

Last edited by beauregard; 04-29-2011 at 06:53 PM. Reason: add words
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:17 AM
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So, Beauregard, is that why my trunk lights stopped working right after the last top leak? Heh, heh!!
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:24 PM
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Default More on the interior lights saga

At the end of the last episode, I had managed to explode a perfectly good BPM. You should know this is my wife's car and she is seriously considering divorce, or castration, or just simple maiming. Today I took apart the roof above the instrument panel to try and find that short. Wherever it is, it is hiding. All the wires that run through the top and side pillars are wrapped neatly. No screws through cables. None of the wires are bigger than 22guage and seem too thin to carry 15 amps. The wires to the vanity mirror clips measure shorts to ground and each other. Is this normal? My plan now is to replace the cooked BPM with one I got on ebay that is not programed for a convertible. Last time I had it installed, it worked "enough" to drive the car, at least to a dealer so he can install a proper BPM. Anyone know how to take out the glove box? The BPM is behind it.
 
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Old 05-01-2011, 05:30 PM
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I just found the short and you called it. It was one of the wires to the visor. I haven't finished all the work, but thank you for that tip. I took out the original BPM that I had cooked and replaced it with the one I got on ebay. I can now help someone faced with that task. It works fine except it will not open the convertible top. I think that needs to be programed at the factory....not sure. I am all out of 15 amp fuses and I have learned not to use a circuit breaker, so I can't see if I can get everything on line now that I have found the short...to be continued.
 
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