Anyone have a pdf or JTIS link that gives instructions for replacing Brembo pads and rotors?

Doing brakes tomorrow on the 02 XKR, has the Brembo R brake option.

Running Vista64, not been successful with the JTIS thus far.

Thanks,

 

I'm in the same boat with you. The job seems very easy but I'm just wondering if the calipers need to be in a specific torque or not...

 

Looks like there is some pain involved:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rprises-42583/

Here is a link where a few people describe the process:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-rotors-5743/

I already have the parts - the Jag parts are outrageous, so I went to tirerack for Hawk pads and the rotors from SNG Barratt. I *think* the rotors are from Eurospare, but I have no confirmation of that. Here is a link discussing the rotors:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nce-com-39328/

 

OK boys, here you are.

It was a bit more of a pain than I would have liked, but I went through JTIS for you and converted the front & rear caliper, pads and rotor documents into pdf form. I also converted the spec sheets, which list the torques.

Have a stellar weekend and good luck.

 

Coupe - thanks much! You just helped me save a ton of money, and I really appreciate that.

Have a good weekend.

 

Thanks for that. 155ft/lbs it is then. Better prep for a sweaty evening then if the bolts fight back like that. May the "force" be with us lol

 

Oh. Posted my previous reply before I saw Coupes reply. Thanks for digging the JTIS for us. Can't run it on my 64bit Vista...

 

maybe get some heat into the system before removal? A couple of hard stops up the street, back to base and a damp towel over the rotor working with gloves?
Jaguar use Loctite 272.

 

I warn you, the 2 bolts that attach the front caliper to the hub carrier are a B&*@H!!!! They will fight you all the way out. I haven't done the rears yet so I can't tell you about them.

 

Brother is a former Jag dealer - Silvey motors in Austin for ten years. Asked him for input on this job, he says:

Go to harbor freight and get an air hammer (Super Duty Air Hammer with Chisels), the air nipple that fits your compressor, and take the flat chisel and put it on the "ear" of a bolt and hammer it like you are trying to turn the bolt..... lefty loosey. Put that thing on that bolt and let her rip...takes about 1.5 seconds to loosen it. The bolts are grade 8 so unless your chisel is real sharp, then it won't damage them......

Then take your HF impact- (1/2" Twin Hammer Air Impact Wrench ) and your 18 or 19mm socket, and possible extension and swivel and zip 'em out. Have a flat ******* on hand (12" Heavy Duty File Set ) in case the bolt head needs dressing up......

When pushing in the pistons, OPEN THE BLEEDER or you will push trash back into the system.

To torque down, take some Locktite on the caliper bolts (clean threads with steel wool or green side sponge), and if you don't have a torque wrench, or u have a crappy inaccurate stop click one (most of them are), and want a good torque reading, then take a 1 foot from socket pipe on wratchet, and lay the end of said pipe on a scale that's on the garage floor and lower the car SLOWLY until you get 133 lbs on the scale. If the pipe is 2 feet long, stop at 66.5. If you use a 133 foot bar, then stop at 1 lb.(not counting the weight of the pipe- zero it out). and if you use a 532 foot bar, stop at .25 lb. or.......nevermind....

Use very little of the Locktite 272 or you will get a false reading on the torque.....

Change out the fluid while you are in there....

Heat is good (Heat Gun - Dual Temperature Heat Gun, 1500W) or better (Shop BernzOmatic Brazing and Soldering Torch Head at Lowes.com) at 3600F....

 

Had a hell of a weekend, and it ain't over yet. Car is still on jackstands, nose in the air. Need help, if anyone has it.

Got the passenger front done - bolts were not going to come off until I hit them with a 900 ft/lb air gun. Then they came right off in two seconds. Rotor came off with some solvent soak and ten minutes of hammering from a lead mallet. Had to go get a big torque wrench to get the caliper bolts back on, but got er done.

Spooled up this morning to do the driver's side, had the video camera running to tape it for the forum and very bad news - the top caliper bolt stripped on the way out. Crossthreaded the bolt when I put it back in, and did the same to the bottom bolt when I was testing it in the top hole.

So, currently have one stripped bolt hole and two crossthreaded bolts.

Educated myself on bolts and such this afternoon. Got a tap and die set, a pitch gauge, and a digital caliper, but I have never done this type of repair. Read how to measure the bolt, but the scale on the die set is not crystal clear, and my original measurements didn't seem to work out. I don't want to screw this up and make it worse.

Anyone have any input on how to tap the bolt hole and rethread the bolts? I really don't want to take that hub assembly apart unless I have to.

Help us Obi-wan, you are our only hope.

Bolt in question has the following dimensions:

Head size - 18.84mm (19mm bolt)
Diameter, measured across the threads: 13.93mm
Diameter, measured across the bare part just below the head: 13.31mm
Pitch: 1.5

Charts such as these http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-metric.htm seem to indicate that the tap size should be 12.5 x 1.5. Wikipedia confirms - tap size is diameter - pitch.

But, having trouble finding a set with a 12.5 in it - but that list shows that a 1/2" tap might work. So, looks like I might have to take my metric set back and get a standard American set, once I figure out how to convert 1.5 pitch rate to threads per inch.

 

Have you tried mounting the caliper in the vice and tried either tap with a finger tight first approach to see if you're close with either?
My old man once told me the key was take your time, half a cutting turn even with HSS taps and wind out the swarf.
How far down is the thread bust?
Measure your taps against a decent bolt push the threads together it should be identical.

If you undo a bolt from the done side and take it to a local nuts and bolts shop, get high tensile cap heads (allen head) and a bit to tighten them up, maybe replace them all now they've been cranked.

Hope you're back on the road promptly.

 

Thanks Sean. I think the issue is in the vertical link - the thing that the caliper is mounted to. I messed up both bolts trying to screw them into the top hole. Threads are smashed on the very end of the bolts, furthest away fro m the bolt head.

I ordered new bolts from Autobahn in Ft. Worth (cheaper online, but I want them today) and am trying to find a time-sert to fix the threads. The bolts come with loc-tite preinstalled.

BTW, I have another thread going on this issue - called "Major issue - any input appreciated." Some good info in there.

 

Coupe - trying to help in another thread, how did you convert JTIS to pdf?