So, we'll see how it goes. $700 (US) for bushings, shock mounts and Bilstein shocks. I've completely stripped down the engine and suspension on a Triumph Spitfire before so this can't be all that hard. . . Right? LOL. Besides, I've got those great YouTube videos to go by.

 

The fulcrum bolts on the upper wishbones are either a 20 minute job to remove or a 5 day marathon if they're seized!

Good luck.

Graham

 

It should be loads of fun I'm sure when you're done, you will love the ride. I did mine last year.

 

Tune in a good radio station, lay out your tools, relax and enjoy. I just completed mine last week minus the shocks and developed a way to keep spacers from falling out when you remove bolts.

I tied a string on the threaded end of the bolts and when u tap through it held spacers in place and kept from falling on ground. Worked for me no guarentee.

Have fun!





Wrap the string once tightly tie a tight knot.





When bolt pops out pull arm back spacers drop (in place) onto the string





String going through holes.

 

Very smart idea. I wish I did that on mine. My spacers went flying. Luckily for me, I got them back in the correct order. The car rides fine after an alignment.

 

So, have not received all my parts just yet. Did have an interesting experience buying the Control Arm bushings via Amazon.com. The ad stated "bushing for ...." and it showed two sets of bushings (I did not notice the wording: bushing. As in singular . . . ) When I received it I called the selling company and asked where the other one was. Longish story shortened. Good,Better,Best Auto Parts in Simi Valley, Calif. offered to find me a set from another company (identical to the factory ones but aftermarket branding) and a refund made. I was able to get the full set for a big discount AND got to use payPal to make the purchase.

A happy camper am I.

 

Jagnit,
What a great idea, although I'm very surprised the string wasn't cut as it went through the system. I can see that the string was a braded type, so maybe that is the answer.
Whatever it was, it's still a great idea and should be posted in the "Sticky" section as a suggestion when undertaking this job.

 

Chuck,
I appreciate the kind thoughts to post as a Sticky I believe though a moderator or administrator can only post or identify a Sticky if so I can do a write up and provide the pictures.

Thanks
JAGNIT (Tom)

 

Cyber3d, Last week we discussed leaving the lower shock bolt untouched to make removing the fulcrm bolt on the upper wishbone a 5 minute job like Graham mentions. In case you were not following that thread, remember Rev Sam's video. He forgets to loosen that bolt on the side that it took 5 minutes on. I tried it and got the same result. Just like Rev Sam I loosend the shock bolt on the first side - it must have taken an hour. Give it a shot and let us know how it works. That can be a PIA to get out.

In case I'm wrong and you get in that jam, here's an idea it took me way to long to think of but worked real well: When the bolt is part way out and you can place a smaller open end wrench under the bolt head (so the threads under the bolt head are inside the wrench area), put one in there and whack it with the heaviest hammer you can fit in there. I found it a bit easier to transfer energy to move the bolt than trying to hammer a ratchet extension in from the bolt side (limited room to swing on that side).

John

 

Thanks Johnken for the tips!

I might even video my adventure in case something useful comes up.

 

My solution for extracting the fulcrum bolt was to use a screw-handle C-clamp, the type used for gluing. I cut the tip off the open end and fitted it into the open notch of the sub-frame. Then put a five-eighths socket over the threaded end of the bolt and applied the screw-end of the clamp to it. By simultaneously turning the hex-end of the bolt with a ratchet and tightening the clamp (plus tapping with a hammer and extension every so often), I was able to extract the bolt without too many bad words.