Key fobs 2004 Xk8
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
Key fobs 2004 Xk8
Hi all,
I have a 2004 XK8 that has never had a working key fob since I’ve owned him which is starting to become annoying.
The fob that came with the car, a new one I bought off Amazon and a second hand one that I bought from a breaker - all do not work - even with new batteries.
The programming sequence of flashing main beam whilst turning ignition on to ACC seems to work as light flashes above J gate (but no audio tone) but none of the fobs want to seem to pair.
I know the fobs can be unreliable but was thinking that chances of having three that don’t work was unlikely.
If I was to replace the security module - is it a plug and play or is there more involved ?
I have had a look for the vcat info in the boot - but it is not there.
I have a 2004 XK8 that has never had a working key fob since I’ve owned him which is starting to become annoying.
The fob that came with the car, a new one I bought off Amazon and a second hand one that I bought from a breaker - all do not work - even with new batteries.
The programming sequence of flashing main beam whilst turning ignition on to ACC seems to work as light flashes above J gate (but no audio tone) but none of the fobs want to seem to pair.
I know the fobs can be unreliable but was thinking that chances of having three that don’t work was unlikely.
If I was to replace the security module - is it a plug and play or is there more involved ?
I have had a look for the vcat info in the boot - but it is not there.
Veteran Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 1,578
From: Eastern USA
You might want to look around, there are at least 2 similar but different descriptions for the fob pairing procedure. Start with the stickies in this forum. I believe the security module has 5 positions for up to five separate fobs. All 5 have to be programmed in a session, likely meaning each of your fobs will have to be added several times, e.g., if you have 1 fob, it will have to be added 5 times.
Other data point is that the antenna for the fob is mid-way below the rear window, same general area where the high-mounted brake light is. You might want to retry the pairing procedure with the fob in that area just to see if there is a difference. There are posts where folks complain of a range issue where a fob that used to work at some distance now only works when the fob is super close. FWIW, some have opened the security module and identified the daughter board where the fob electronics is located. Not sure there is an immediate replacement available.
From the depth of my memory, I seem to recall that the fobs are somehow dual-frequency capable to be usable in many markets. There is a button sequence to execute to "switch" from European to US frequencies. Maybe it has been done by accident, but is unlikely. Some parts store have fob testers that can detect if a fob is even transmitting anything.
There have been many reports of dirty rubber buttons no longer making contact. Alcohol cleaning seem to have help some.
The good news is that for 2001MY and later, the fobs are shared with many Ford models and there are tons of after-market options, including the flip style of the S-Type (check eBay). Many of us have converted to that style quite successfully, but there are several steps involved, including dealing with the crypto chip.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Other data point is that the antenna for the fob is mid-way below the rear window, same general area where the high-mounted brake light is. You might want to retry the pairing procedure with the fob in that area just to see if there is a difference. There are posts where folks complain of a range issue where a fob that used to work at some distance now only works when the fob is super close. FWIW, some have opened the security module and identified the daughter board where the fob electronics is located. Not sure there is an immediate replacement available.
From the depth of my memory, I seem to recall that the fobs are somehow dual-frequency capable to be usable in many markets. There is a button sequence to execute to "switch" from European to US frequencies. Maybe it has been done by accident, but is unlikely. Some parts store have fob testers that can detect if a fob is even transmitting anything.
There have been many reports of dirty rubber buttons no longer making contact. Alcohol cleaning seem to have help some.
The good news is that for 2001MY and later, the fobs are shared with many Ford models and there are tons of after-market options, including the flip style of the S-Type (check eBay). Many of us have converted to that style quite successfully, but there are several steps involved, including dealing with the crypto chip.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13,697
Likes: 9,644
From: Wise County,TX
You can test the RF output at some auto parts stores or purchase a receiver to see what (if any) frequency they are transmitting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18409441202...SABEgImQfD_BwE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19515985136....c101465.m3507
Every once-in-a-while I have to use WDS or IDS to 'Clear keyfob transmitters' from the SLCM memory.
This eliminates ALL transmitters stored.
I don't know why the SLCM will not always 'overwrite' the old stored transmitters?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18409441202...SABEgImQfD_BwE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19515985136....c101465.m3507
Every once-in-a-while I have to use WDS or IDS to 'Clear keyfob transmitters' from the SLCM memory.
This eliminates ALL transmitters stored.
I don't know why the SLCM will not always 'overwrite' the old stored transmitters?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)