XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Locked out...

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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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Default Locked out...

Hi Folks,

My XK8 has sat for a while - was working away from home a lot - and now I'm well and truly locked out.

The remote does nothing, naturally, but annoyingly neither does the key. I have had to unlock a few times using the key, and normally you just turn 90 degrees and there's a clunk and it unlocks; as I recall, it always sounded a bit electrical rather than a purely mechanical lock..

well, presumably, this time it's proper drained. The little 'secret' keyhole at the back is giving me no joy either.. for both the drivers door and the keyhole between x and k, I pop the key in and try to turn it - putting enough pressure on that I'm actually concerned about snapping the key plastic.

So, how do I get into a properly dead xk8? if I could open the boot,I could charge the battery - I imagine that even if I could open the bonnet, there must be a way to charge it enough to open...

what are my options? (other than calling AA home Start and making it someone else's problem, which doesn't seem fair!)
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 04:58 PM
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Assuming you are using the regular (black) key in the trunk/boot keyhole, it should work. It is mechanical, not electrical. You cannot use the valet (green key) as it will not work (that's how you keep the valet out).

Maybe try a little lubricant in the back keyhole? (no jokes guys, let's keep this clean)
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jag#4
Assuming you are using the regular (black) key in the trunk/boot keyhole, it should work. It is mechanical, not electrical. You cannot use the valet (green key) as it will not work (that's how you keep the valet out).

Maybe try a little lubricant in the back keyhole? (no jokes guys, let's keep this clean)
Ahhhh, come on set yourself up with that comment and then tell us no jokes, you'r just no fun at all.

On to the OP's problem, as others said be sure your not using the valet key and yes you have to fess up if you are. Trunk will open with no battery!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:47 PM
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If nothing else, you could jack up the right front of the car, reach up to the starter motor, and carefully connect a battery charger to the battery cable stud there. It isn't easy to reach...
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 05:04 AM
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Yeah tried lubricating the back end (smirk) but that lock just won't work for me.

I don't actually HAVE a valet key for my jag - only the main key.

I'll try the old WD40 once a day into the hole and see if it works loose after a bit.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 06:35 AM
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Valet keys are not normally supplied in the UK and indeed on many models the car doesn't have the extra stuff to let them work e.g. my car has fewer parts fitted to the glovebox.

If you get the rear lock to work then afterwards try to get the WD40 out as it's the wrong stuff to have in there. You'll have to disassemble it I think.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 06:59 AM
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Gus has an answer on his page
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 11:56 AM
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There is a product available in the U.S., called Dry Slide. It is a spray, non petroleum-based, and it contains graphite. Excellent for locks.

Rather costy, but excellent.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 04:36 AM
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My bad - I was using 'wd40' in a 'hoover' sense - the actual product I was using is the 3-in-one lubricant spray; a PTFE one that costs a bit more, but works wonders when WD40 won't cut it.

and the good news is - it worked. spraying it a couple of times each day and 'wiggling' the key I suddenly felt a 'clunk' and I am into the driver's door. no joy on the boot though, so I'll be using the diagram on that page Fulton has posted.

should be home and dry tonight
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 04:50 AM
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It's dry in Glasgow?

At least your in the car now.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 03:08 PM
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dry *and* sunny... wonders will never cease, not having any joy though.

the inside of my engine bay doesn't look *exactly* like the diagram - in particular, there doesn't seem to be an earth strap attaching to the top of the suspension mount.

I can't seem to find any decent negative point to connect the charger to. just to add to my woes, my dumb as a port charger is locked in the boot, where it was used last...

and the newly purchase "smart" charger refuses to recognise that it's connected to a battery at all.

*sigh*
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 04:15 PM
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and in!

Had to buy a dumb-as-a-post charger, which promptly popped the fuse seconds after flashing the indicators..

swapped the fuse to a 10A blade (it's a 4 Amp charger ) and then hovered over the power lead as wifey hovered over the boot release catch.

pop, opens the boot, and no magic blue smoke in sight.

turns out the smart charger can't see the battery even directly attached, but is fine on the new car - how much use is a battery charger that won't charge a fully dead battery, fs?

still, in the boot, and now charging the battery using the previous (locked in the boot) charger.

the hassles we give ourselves, eh?

on a positive note, I had a guy come up and ask about buying the car whilst wrestling with it, and in the process convinced me all over again to keep it
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:30 PM
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Typically, chargers will not charge a stone cold dead battery. There has to be a minimal amount of charge in the battery for the charger to work. Back before I had a trickle charger and just charged it every couple of weeks I made the mistake on my boat of leaving the fish finder on and when I went out to charge it a couple of weeks later the battery was not able to take a charge. I drove my car over and hooked up some jumper cables to it and charged it for a few minutes with my car engine running. After that the charger would work on it and it charged up properly. I have heard others say that the battery is ruined in that case, but it was not for me. Anyway, it is worth the shot because I have spoken with other people who went out and bought a new battery when their charger would not charge theirs. This sort of thing happens a lot more on boats than on cars, for obvious reasons.
Glad you got it up and running.
 
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