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Loose Convertible Top Latch

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  #1  
Old 03-14-2014, 12:19 PM
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Default Loose Convertible Top Latch

Greetings,

My 2003 XKR convertible (108K) front latch makes a loud metallic click/clunk/rattle when going over bumps, rough road, etc with the top up. I'm pretty sure it is the hook(latch), because when the top is down and I depress the hook with my finger there is some play up and down. Barely used to do it, but it has progressively become worse and more frequent even over smaller bumps.

I've checked the females on the convertible top and they appear solid and secure. The rams, whick operate laterally to secure the top also appear to be tight, with no play.

I tried to tighten everything accessible with no luck.

I've read the threads about changing the hydraulic hoses out, etc, but am wondering if there is any way to tighten that latch (hook) mechanism, or does it need to be replaced? TIA
 
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Old 03-15-2014, 07:16 AM
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I shudder to think how many rag-top posts I've read, but don't recall seeing this problem. Changing hydraulic hoses (if they're not leaking) does not seem likely to effect this.

Question: when closing the top ... as the top is "parked" just before being pulled in by the latch ... can you describe the positions of things: distance from the top to the windshield frame? latch fully extended? latch touching receiver in the convertible top?

Just fishing at this point.
 
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Old 03-15-2014, 11:55 AM
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The entire latching device is linkage driven by the Hyd. power and latch that floats freely. Have you taken your allen wrench and attempted to lock the latch manually? I am wondering if the Hyd. latch is not driving it all the way home. Do you know if any of the hoses or latch have been replaced or worked on?
 
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Old 03-15-2014, 01:18 PM
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Thanks for the responses Gus and Dennis.

The system seems to work perfectly and the top appears to be very snug and there is no give. Knock on wood, it has worked flawlessly since I bought the car. The hydraulic system motor did short out and was repaired at the Jaguar dealership two summers ago. They operated the system and said it works perfectly. I did have to use the allen wrench to secure the top after the motor shorted out and loosened the pet **** etc, as directed. The additional clunking did seem to start about then, but they said they didn't tough the latch mechanism, just repaired the motor.

There were some minor scratches just fore of the claw/latching mechanism on the paint when I bought it and after following all the "green shower" threads, lead me to believe that it was worked on and/or repaired or replaced by the first owner. (I am #2) She had all the service records and there is no record of a latch repair, although it may have been done by an indie, or out of town...
When put up, the top stops about 2 inches from the header and contacts the claw, which appears fully extended, which then operates perfectly to pull it down. Everything seems to work perfectly. My next step will be to use that Allen wrench and check that the manual release is fully rotated, and check fluid level etc.

If it doesn't fix it, I'm considering the full overhaul, with the new lines, etc, to pre empt the shower. I hate to spend that time and dough needlessly, esp since it appears the system was worked on,(although sloppily, hence the circular paint scatches fore of the claw.)
 
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:52 PM
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Attached I have 2 photos of what the latch mechanism looks like. With the roof operating and locking properly I am finding it hard to think of what might be causing the problem. Can you pull down the light and see if you do not have a loose part of it causing the noise?

Link to R&R Hose JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../IMG_1331w.jpg
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../IMG_1332w.jpg
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:25 AM
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ET,

We're of course looking for a condition that would exist only with the top up.

I think it's worth probing the idea that the latch hook is not being held firmly against its receiver. This might be caused by wear or deformation of the hook, or of the receiver.

To see if this is the right area to pursue, I'd suggest a test: put some tape around the receiver, close the top, and let's see if this changes the character of the rattle sound. If it does, we have narrowed things down.
 

Last edited by Dennis07; 03-16-2014 at 08:59 AM. Reason: re-thinking
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:32 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion. I tried that a few months ago after examining the receiver. The metal receiver has a thin plastic layer which was slightly worn/compromised on the inside, where the claw grabs it. So I thickened it up a bit. No difference..
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 05:01 PM
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Damn. I'm at square one.
 
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Old 03-16-2014, 06:44 PM
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When the top is up the rams lock the roof into place and when this is done it puts tension on 2 cables one on each side of the roof from front to back can you check them to see that the roof is locked? You can do this by lowering your windows and GENTLY moving the roof frame up and down at one of the joints of the folding roof on both sides. You will know if they are locked! This could cause the roof to flex and may be part of the problem when you go over a bump.
 
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:39 AM
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Gus,. Sometimes when I put up the passenger side window there is a creak, when the window gets to the top, the same sound that I can't identify.
I'm out of town this week, but you may be on to something with the tension. I'll check above the map light when I get home, but now I'm thinking the creak is from the top frame..
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:51 PM
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Default Same metalic clunk in header

Hi, Did you ever solve the mystery? I just bought a 2004 xkr convertible with the same clunk. The local dealer offered to do a few service things, gratis, after I purchased it from them. I told them about the noise and they must not have tried very hard to hear it. They claimed they couldn't reproduce the sound, but it comes up often on a lot of different roads with so-so pavement. I too have trouble figuring out what causes it. However, I traded my 2013 Miata with a power hardtop, which also had a similar clunk, that turned out to be a loose bolt in the header, but it was there with top down as well. I will keep after the dealer to find it as a first resort, but will post what I find out regardless.
 
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:49 PM
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Dealer had it again and the tech rode with me. He recoginzed the sound and tightened the pins on each side...so he said. I still get a noise up there on transitions of gradient, such as when I turn from the street onto a sloped driveway. It isn't nearly as loud. It also takes a much bigger jolt to hear it. I'm not sure that the sloppy cowl shake isn't a major factor on my particular car despite the low mileage. 39K, makes my Miata feel like a bank vault. Thats another story I guess.
 
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:59 AM
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Some diagnostic reading for you.

bob gaudd
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
910-11 Squeaks & Rattles.pdf (371.6 KB, 130 views)
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:03 PM
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Default An Ah hah moment ..

Originally Posted by Maharg
Dealer had it again and the tech rode with me. He recoginzed the sound and tightened the pins on each side...so he said. I still get a noise up there on transitions of gradient, such as when I turn from the street onto a sloped driveway. It isn't nearly as loud. It also takes a much bigger jolt to hear it. I'm not sure that the sloppy cowl shake isn't a major factor on my particular car despite the low mileage. 39K, makes my Miata feel like a bank vault. Thats another story I guess.
I get that "creak" sound as well, consistently at one particular transition of gradient. If I remember to get the Angle of Attack just right (and slow speed), it doesn't happen. This is a left hand turn off of US 101 into a business so I'm not always able to exercise due care. Guess I'm in good company .. I'll read the PDF's and follow this thread.
 
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